Drill Doctor issues

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keithncsu

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Hoping for some collect wisdom from the masses here. At least the segment of the masses that have and use a drill doctor. I believe mine is called the Handyman 250 and I admit that I purchased it used.

My very first attempt I was able to successfully sharpen a dull bit. However, I've recently tried 2 more times (following the same procedures) and ended up with bits where the chisel begins at roughly 11pm rather than 1pm like it should. I hope that description makes sense. In other words it looks like \ but it should be /.

Are there any suggestions you can offer to help figure out what I'm doing wrong? I know for sure I'm getting the clamp/jaws on the smallest point. And I'm for sure turning the chuck clockwise. I'm not sure how else I could be screwing this up.

Information on the bits: both were regular Dewalt 27/64" jobber/HSS/black oxide bits from Lowes. If I recall, and not 100% sure, but the very first bit I successfully sharpened was the same exact brand/type but just 3/8".
 
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keithncsu

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Thanks for the suggestion. Those are the same instructions I have and after reading about similar issues, that was one thing I made sure to do.

Would it matter how I oriented the bit during this step with regard to the direction of the chisel? I don't think it would considering you rotate the entire chuck while grinding. But at this point I'm grasping at straws.
 

smik

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This is how I set the bit and the results.
 

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keithncsu

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Definite that we match on picture 1. But my results are not the same. My chisel is slanted backwards/before 12 pm when looked at like a clock, compared to yours.
 

keithncsu

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Here are pictures of the most recent bit I ruined. I emailed Darex this morning and Taffy responded. She hasn't seen pictures yet but thinks my older version of the drill doctor isn't set up to handle the type of bit I'm using. They have an upgrade program I may take advantage of.
 

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Paul in OKC

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I will admit to never being a fan of the DD. Now, that said, is yours had the screw that you can adjust to change the depth in the collet, adjust it out a half turn, or count the flats on the head. I have one at the shop and it requires adjusting depending on the diameter of the bit, so much so I don't use it and grind by hand. But it can be dialed in with good results with similar size bits.
 

keithncsu

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I tried to drill with it but it took more pressure than I thought was normal to get it to work. Almost like it was shaving rather than cutting. If that makes sense.
 

leehljp

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It looks to me that you are holding it too long on the initial contact spot and then rotating it. I rotate mine evenly and consistently. IF I push mine in and hold and then begin to rotate, I get too much/wide of a flat spot at the cutting edge.

But, what I see could be the result of yours not aligning up correctly, as you mentioned earlier.
 

darrin1200

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Are you aligning the chuck into the alignment hole correctly?

Another thought. When you tighten the check up after aligning the bit, is the bit turning? I did thid a couple of time when I first got mine. I did not snug it up enoug before aligning the bit. Then when I tigtened it after, the bit had a tendancy to tuen in the chuck. That is why now, I snug up the chuck until the bit can move just enough to align.

I had the little baby doctor at first, but have since bougt the 750x. I wouldn't give it up for anything.
 

keithncsu

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Best i can tell I'm aligning correctly. And definitely tightening it down. Starting to think I need to just upgrade and see if that does the trick. Waiting to see what Darex says on Monday.
 

Paul in OKC

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Does yours have the three position selector for initial set up? Have you tried each one, regardless of the type of bit you are sharpening. Maybe even going past a bit and make a mark on the machine. When I do use the one at the shop, I rarely set the chuck in the 'straight on' setting. It allows some rotation either direction. I have an old one stuck somewhere in the depths of my garage, maybe I can find it a do some more trial and error testing with it.
 

TonyL

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Dr Doctor Aid

Drill Doctor sent me this months ago. I believe I shared it with all. I hope it helps.
 

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keithncsu

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Hey Paul, mine is the super old Handyman 250 that apparently has no adjustments that can be made for different angles, bits, etc. According to Darex's email to me, they realized after a while that not all drill are the standard twist. She said that is why they came out with the upgraded ones. I think that may be the issue.

Tony, I have your new/updated/in depth instructions and have used those too. But to no avail.

Looking more and more like I just have an old/outdated one that needs new technology. Tried to save a buck back when I bought it and looks like that may have bit me.
 

Sylvanite

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Don't try to split the point. You'll only damage the bit more.

I recently had the same issue trying to sharpen some cobalt bits I use to drill steel-core bullets. The cause of the problem is as the document Tony posted. The bit you're trying to sharpen has a more rapid twist than the typical jobber bit. This causes the Drill Doctor's alignment procedure to set the wrong chisel and relief angle. You'll have to compensate by turning the bit holder to a different position when aligning the bit. In my case, I had to compensate by more than the adjustment range allowed by the DD 750. I accomplished that by setting the bit holder to the last position, and then rotating the bit back a little before tightening.

I was eventually able to get good cutting action out of these bits once I figured out how to properly set the chisel and rake angle.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 

keithncsu

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OK, sorry for the delayed response but I've figured out the issue. With the help of my own brain/eyes and further emails with Darex. As it turns out, the bits I'm getting from Lowe's are 135 degree bits. The Handyman 250 Drill Dr. version I have cannot sharpen 135 bits, only 118. That's why the very first one I tried worked. Not only are they not the same degree, but the Lowe's bits are a tighter twist pattern. Again, not something the older Handyman 250 can handle.

Looks like my attempt at saving a buck backfired this time. We'll see if I can sell in on Craigslist or something to make a few bucks back.

Cool thing is Darex offers an upgrade program so if I wanted to get the 500x model, it would cost me $59.99.

Either way, thanks for all the help and suggestions! Turned out that none of them would've helped in this situation but I'm sure I'll be referring back here in the future. I attached some pics in case it helps anyone else.
 

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TonyL

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I was going to ask you about cutting angle..but chickened-out. I do inspect my bits for the correct angle if not noted and then adjust my DD accordingly. If I am unsure (too lazy to measure), After 9.5mm or fractional equivalent, I cut at 135 and split. That was the advice I got from Darex. Maybe, the wrong advice, but I have had success with it.
 
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