Dead center

[cowchaser]

Ordered a dead center this morning and am going to try some turning between centers. I have done a search on the forums and see lots of posts of people doing it, but not much advise. Anyone have any tips for a newb that is going to try turning this way?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Search for 'no mandrel' turning. Should come up.

 

[cowchaser]

Ahh thanks Frank. Didn't think of it that way. []

 

[leehljp]

One problem that I did run into, noticed and corrected quickly: the ends of the blanks need to be milled "square". I had more of a problem on this with Sierra's and large tubes than others. IF the blank/tube seem to be visually "square", it can still be half a degree off and this can cause a problem - described below.

FOR TURNING BLANKS on the "no-mandrel" method:
Unlike a blank/tube on a mandrel - there is not support except where the drive centers contact the bushings and the bushing fit in the tubes. On my first couple of Sierras, As I tightned the centers up to the bushings, the bushings tightened against the tubes. ALIGNMENT comes into play here that is as big of an issue on mandrels at this point. ANY misalignment on the milled ends will cause the bushing to draw up tight against the misalignment. This will result in an out of round blank. TO some people, it may not be very noticeable but I had two that were approximately 1/75th or 1/100th inch out of round, and that is very noticeable to me, especially after assembly.

I checked and checked to find the problem. The bushings were within .002 or perfect in run out. There was a minute' play with the bushings in the tubes that could be forced with end pressure. Then I discovered that the bushings would align to the ends and if one end was 1/2° or 1/4° out of square, the bushing would draw up to that, producing an out of round turned blank.

FOR FINISHING:
I have not discovered ANY problem with finishing using the "no-mandrel" method. OF course, I take the bushings OFF for finishing; otherwise I would have the same problem as finishing on a mandrel with bushings.

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

Dustin, Johnnycnc just posted on the classified bushings for sale for turning w/o a mandrel along with derlin bushings for finishing.

Originally posted by cowchaser
<br />Ordered a dead center this morning and am going to try some turning between centers. I have done a search on the forums and see lots of posts of people doing it, but not much advise. Anyone have any tips for a newb that is going to try turning this way?

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Just my $.02 here so take as you will. I LOVE this method so much that I have even been taking the time to turn even better bushings on my metal lathe. I have not notied issues such as Hank has mentioned myself, but I can see how it can happen. For the CA appliation, I would just forgo addtional bushigs to apply the CA. Simply holding it gently without bushings works perfect and even give a light coat on the ends. I have also notcied that if I gently mill down the CA I can leave a light coat on the ends. This seals the end grain with CA.

The only thing that does come in handy is a short tool rest. I have half a dozen under 10" because I make my own, but it would be hard to fit a 12" tool rest between centers.

 

[tdibiasio]

I am assuming that turning without a mandral requires you to turn one barrel at a time. Can someone confirm. Also what is required in terms of equiptment to use this method ?

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Yes, you turn just one blank at a time. The only needed thing, other than the $5.00 dead center, is your live center, and the bushings for that kit. You do not need to worry if they are for an A or B shaft, they all fit between centers. The only time you come into any problems and need a special bushing is with the 7mm kits like a slimline or Euro. These special bushings can be bought here on IAP and they will blow away the "junk" bushings that we can buy.

Other than that, you need very little and you have major gains. The pen comes off the lathe in seconds to check the measurement, you can apply CA without the bushings so you end "CA Chip" or "Stuck bushings" for ever. Plus the accuracy of the turning, espicaly on big kits is greatly improved. Try it, you will only be out about the cost of one good pen blank!

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by tdibiasio
<br />I am assuming that turning without a mandral requires you to turn one barrel at a time. Can someone confirm. Also what is required in terms of equiptment to use this method ?

Confirmed. One at a time. You need a dead center on headstock, live 60 degree center in tailstock. Put blank with tube inbetween and turn. Works best with larger pens, not 7mm.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

EDIT: This can work with 7mm pens, if you have the proper bushings. The bushings that are sold here will be much better than the ones that you can buy from the suppliers just based on how they are made. I make my own on a metal lathe and the last ones I did are such a perfect fit that the air displacement will push and pull the bushing on the other end of the blank. BCB turning is a bit more than just putting the blank & tube between centers. You will still need the proper bushings to hold the wood. On my bushings, I make them 30mm long, 15mm for the step bushing and 15mm inside the tube. The extra length is note all around.

 

[DCBluesman]

Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />

Originally posted by tdibiasio
<br />live 60 degree center in tailstock.

The angle of the end of the live center is immaterial if you are using standard bushings.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Lou is correct, I left that out because if you buy the dedicated BCB's from John you will need the 60 degree center because they have been drilled with a 60 degree bit. But for standard bushings, any one will work perfectly.