vtgaryw
Member
Anyone here build their own CNC mill? I'm narrowing in on what I want to build, and thought I'd add a 4th axis so I can engrave pens. I'm curious for what you run for software.
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks,
Gary
CNC Mini-Mill Software?
- Thread starter vtgaryw
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I built my own bench top using a Taig bench top cnc to make the parts. it has an 8 x18 work table. It depends on how detailed your parts you want to make will be. There are good basic programs fairly cheap but few cheap 4 axis ones. You will need a drawing cad program and cam software. Unless you code it yourself. You will probably also need a controler software. I use Mach 3
CAD-CAM Software | CNC Software by Dolphin CAD-CAM USA may be a solutuion, I have Rhino 5 and Rhinocam but cheap is not in the same room. I have made a bead for a friend of mine that had over 330,000 lines of "go to" in mach 3 it took 22 hours for my computer at the time to path it and 18 hours to cut it there was so much detail.
Here is a link to Soigeneris, he is a great guy builds and installes cnc equipment etc andh his recommended software page.
Software - Soigeneris.com
Lots of customer support
CAD-CAM Software | CNC Software by Dolphin CAD-CAM USA may be a solutuion, I have Rhino 5 and Rhinocam but cheap is not in the same room. I have made a bead for a friend of mine that had over 330,000 lines of "go to" in mach 3 it took 22 hours for my computer at the time to path it and 18 hours to cut it there was so much detail.
Here is a link to Soigeneris, he is a great guy builds and installes cnc equipment etc andh his recommended software page.
Software - Soigeneris.com
Lots of customer support
Ed McDonnell
Member
I'll second Mike's rec of Mach 3. I would not go with Mach 4. Not yet anyway.
Budget is going to be a big factor in your solution for generating the g-code (aka toolpaths) to run your new machine. Creating the code for the 4th axis isn't too bad as long as you are only dealing with 3 of your 4 axes. You just convert one from inches (or mm) to degrees to get the rotation (this is probably the simplest part of the whole process). If you want to actually work with 4 axes, that's multiple orders of magnitude more complicated (and expensive). Everything below assumes 3 axes total with one being rotary.
Cheapest - get a free spreadsheet program with a macro language and use your superior math and coding skills to generate the toolpaths. This will keep your mind sharp for sure, but it gets old fast.
More Expensive (roll your own option) - Buy a cad program to generate your design "flat" (in two dimensions) and buy a cam / wrapping program to generate your toolpath and convert it for rotary.
An integrated CAD/CAM package is about the same price as the roll your own - Buy something like Vectric's VCarve Pro (~$600). It has limited ability to generate wrapped output but it should be able to do it. Or you can get a cheap wrapper program to convert a "flat" toolpath to rotary.
Much more expensive - Something like Vectric's Aspire ($2,000). You get full 3D modelling tools and the ability to see your wrapped design. It's not perfect. The wrapped features are not as fully developed as they could be because their customer base in more oriented to the flat world. But you can do a lot with it, it you work at it.
Insanely expensive - There are some really nice programs for jewelry designers out there. The companies will be happy to let you use them for about $10,000 / year (last time I checked). That wasn't in my fun budget, but the software looked really nice.
If you are just starting out, I would suggest getting comfortable running flat work for a while before you start trying to do rotary work. There are a lot of basics you need to get sorted out for yourself before you start complicating things with rotary work.
Vectric is a great company with a very active / helpful user base. Their online forum is a great resource. They have free trial versions of their software to help you understand what you would be getting into.
Ed
Budget is going to be a big factor in your solution for generating the g-code (aka toolpaths) to run your new machine. Creating the code for the 4th axis isn't too bad as long as you are only dealing with 3 of your 4 axes. You just convert one from inches (or mm) to degrees to get the rotation (this is probably the simplest part of the whole process). If you want to actually work with 4 axes, that's multiple orders of magnitude more complicated (and expensive). Everything below assumes 3 axes total with one being rotary.
Cheapest - get a free spreadsheet program with a macro language and use your superior math and coding skills to generate the toolpaths. This will keep your mind sharp for sure, but it gets old fast.
More Expensive (roll your own option) - Buy a cad program to generate your design "flat" (in two dimensions) and buy a cam / wrapping program to generate your toolpath and convert it for rotary.
An integrated CAD/CAM package is about the same price as the roll your own - Buy something like Vectric's VCarve Pro (~$600). It has limited ability to generate wrapped output but it should be able to do it. Or you can get a cheap wrapper program to convert a "flat" toolpath to rotary.
Much more expensive - Something like Vectric's Aspire ($2,000). You get full 3D modelling tools and the ability to see your wrapped design. It's not perfect. The wrapped features are not as fully developed as they could be because their customer base in more oriented to the flat world. But you can do a lot with it, it you work at it.
Insanely expensive - There are some really nice programs for jewelry designers out there. The companies will be happy to let you use them for about $10,000 / year (last time I checked). That wasn't in my fun budget, but the software looked really nice.
If you are just starting out, I would suggest getting comfortable running flat work for a while before you start trying to do rotary work. There are a lot of basics you need to get sorted out for yourself before you start complicating things with rotary work.
Vectric is a great company with a very active / helpful user base. Their online forum is a great resource. They have free trial versions of their software to help you understand what you would be getting into.
Ed
rhino and rhino cam 4 axis will run you over $2k but under 3K,5 axis runs around 10k
I put together one with a rotary axis. Use Mach3 as well to control which has worked very well. Often write code using spreadsheet and usually design flat and then use spreadsheet to convert to rotary. If you make the Y dimension the height of the circumference, it is fairly easy to convert the distance to degrees.
Also have used a program called DeskCNC to generate code for engraving and carving. It's one of the less expensive ones and can do alot to get you started. Again I generate the code flat and use spreadsheet to convert to radial.
Agree that the Vetrics programs are a good next step if you can afford.
Also have used a program called DeskCNC to generate code for engraving and carving. It's one of the less expensive ones and can do alot to get you started. Again I generate the code flat and use spreadsheet to convert to radial.
Agree that the Vetrics programs are a good next step if you can afford.
Paul in OKC
Member
We have a full version of EZCam at work. Pretty easy to use and draw in. Basic mill version is around 1K. It will take dwg and dxf files from AutoCad, plus some others, I think.
jimjam66
Member
Another vote for Mach3 - not free but cheap and works well. My software toolchain is: Design in Inkscape (free), export as a .DXF then open in CAMBAM (free for up to 40 uses then cheap) to add machining steps. Save as a .NC file which is gcode. If I want to use my 4th axis I open the the .NC file in CNCWrapper (Free to try, then cheap) which swaps the X or Y axis for the A axis.
Works a treat.
Works a treat.
vtgaryw
Member
Thanks for all the replies. Still in the planning stages. I had the feeling I'd end up spending more on the software than the hardware.
It'll be awhile yet, the CNC Mill is next up after I finish the band saw mill.
Thanks,
Gary
It'll be awhile yet, the CNC Mill is next up after I finish the band saw mill.
Thanks,
Gary