Bandsaw advice needed

[TattooedTurner]

I'm looking to buy my first bandsaw. It will mostly be used for segmenting small spindle blanks up to 2"x2" & cutting bowl blanks. I want to make horizontal segments, which I can't do on my miter saw without risk of losing my fingers. For now, my bowls will be no deeper than 4" but I will probably go up to 6" in the next 6 months. I'm considering a Wen 10" but have been looking at Grizzly & Jet 14". The larger ones are a lot more than I need now, but I don't want to quickly outgrow the Wen then have to buy a larger one. For you guys with bandsaws, would you recommend just getting the larger and more expensive 14" or does a 10" suit your needs? The ten inch says it will cut up to 6" depth but I'm doubting the power of the motor to do it well. Accuracy is obviously important with segments, but with proper setup does a 14" cut any more accurately? I have some ideas that require 45 & 22.5 degree segments. Also, would a small Dewalt style 10" table saw be better suited for these type of cuts? I could get the Wen & Dewalt for just a bit more than the Jet 14", but if I get a larger bandsaw the table saw will have to wait until after Christmas. Thanks for any advice.

 

[BKelley]

I am using a Powermatic 14" and have had no problems with it. It has done everything that I have needed. I think for the type cuts you mention, the DeWalt 10" would do a great job using a sled. Personally, I think the bandsaw is more versatile, altho I can not cut as smooth cross cut with the bandsaw as with a table saw. Given the choice between a 10" Delta table saw and a 14" Powermatic bandsaw, I think I would choose the bandsaw and add the table saw later. Hard decisions huh?

Ben

 

[jttheclockman]

My suggestion is always bigger is better. If you have the room and the funds then why not. There are many good saws on the market but if looking into a reasonable priced band saw I would look at the Jet 14" and for table saw I would look at the 10" Delta. If you are just looking for a bandsaw then I would highly suggest a disc / belt sander or at least a disc sander. Again the bigger the better. You will not get glue quality cuts on a bandsaw like you can on a tablesaw but as I mentioned a sander will solve that.

 

[Herb G]

Grizzly is your best buy for the money. Powermatic, Jet, Grizzly & every other brand you care to mention are all made in China these days.
I'd go with a Grizzly 14" if I could. Grizzly is not way overpriced like the others mentioned.
Link to one

You can buy a lift kit for it at a later date if you decide you want to resaw lumber. It has a 1.5 hp motor, which is pretty powerful for most bandsaw work. If you have to wait, so be it. You will thank yourself later on.

 

[mredburn]

You might want to check out Rikon brand bandsaws as well. If you have a local Woodcraft they carry them and you may find them on sale. I recomend a 14 inch model as well.

 

[adirondak5]

I had a 14" Grizzly GO555 for about 8 years , mostly for guitar related work , resaws , etc. I had a riser block on it . It was a great saw , not much different than the equivalent Jet . I now have a Laguna 14-12 . Almost any 14" band saw on the market to me would be preferable to about any 10" saw on the market , even if I were just to use it for pen blank preparation . Good luck with your search .

 

[JimB]

I also have the Grizzly G0555. I've had it for about 7 years. I bought a riser block for it almost immediately. I use it primarily for cutting bowl blanks. I'm glad I got the riser block as I have used every inch of its 12" height capacity.

Since you will be cutting bowl blanks you will want a minimum of the 14" with riser block. Remember, even if you are turning 4" bowls you will be cutting down much larger pieces of wood.

 

[Edgar]

I have a 14" Rikon bandsaw (10-325). It has recently been replaced by the 10-326 which is essentially the same machine with a slightly larger motor. One thing I really like is that you get a full 13" cutting height without the need for a riser block.

I also have a 10" Craftsman tablesaw that I've had for about 40 years. Since I bought the bandsaw, I rarely use the table saw any longer - just when I need to cut something that can't be done very well on the band saw.

I would definitely recommend a good 14" bandsaw for the type of work you are looking at. I also suggest going to a store that stocks several different types and check them out in person. Some stores (like Woodcraft) may even have several set up in a classroom where they can demonstrate them to you. Pay attention to factors like table adjustment, blade replacement and guide adjustments. Also try to get one that includes a fence.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Agree with the above comments re desirability of the 14" models. I have one of the Grizzly models. Suggest you price them all out, figure out what you can afford and then go one higher.

 

[sbwertz]

I love my 1946 Delta! They can be hard to come by though LOL.

 

[budnder]

+1 for the 14" Rikon 10-325 or 326

I have had the 10-325 for a year and am pretty happy with it. I didn't realize how much resawing I would do until I had a saw that could do it

The guides on it are the one thing I have been a bit less than thrilled with (a bit hard to adjust), so I just ordered a set of guides from Carter Products to upgrade that.

Not sure if this is a factor, but I was able to set it up by myself without anyone else to help carry or lift. Not everyone might be comfortable with that, but it's possible for those that don't mind getting physical.

 

[gimpy]

14" all the way.......you won't regret it

 

[Edgar]

+1 for the 14" Rikon 10-325 or 326

I have had the 10-325 for a year and am pretty happy with it. I didn't realize how much resawing I would do until I had a saw that could do it

The guides on it are the one thing I have been a bit less than thrilled with (a bit hard to adjust), so I just ordered a set of guides from Carter Products to upgrade that.

Not sure if this is a factor, but I was able to set it up by myself without anyone else to help carry or lift. Not everyone might be comfortable with that, but it's possible for those that don't mind getting physical.

Which Carter guides did you buy? I need to get a set for mine as well.

 

[TattooedTurner]

Lots of good advice here. I had a feeling getting a 14" would be the way to go even if I think it's more than I need right now. We have Rockler, Woodworkers Source, and Woodcraft stores here, so I'll be looking at some bandsaws this weekend. Thanks to everyone for your help.

+1 for the 14" Rikon 10-325 or 326

...Not sure if this is a factor, but I was able to set it up by myself without anyone else to help carry or lift. Not everyone might be comfortable with that, but it's possible for those that don't mind getting physical.

Actually that is a huge factor. A special thanks for this little piece of advice.

One last question. Is a closed stand worth the extra money? I'm thinking it would help keep dust from getting in the motor.

 

[budnder]

I only remember one "trick" to the solo setup, aside from the obvious open the box and carry stuff piece by piece, using a dolly/handtruck for large/heavy bit, etc. The trick was, instead of lifing the heavy top portion and setting it on the base, I assembled the top and base while it was laying on the floor, then tipped it upright.

Lots of good advice here. I had a feeling getting a 14" would be the way to go even if I think it's more than I need right now. We have Rockler, Woodworkers Source, and Woodcraft stores here, so I'll be looking at some bandsaws this weekend. Thanks to everyone for your help.

+1 for the 14" Rikon 10-325 or 326

...Not sure if this is a factor, but I was able to set it up by myself without anyone else to help carry or lift. Not everyone might be comfortable with that, but it's possible for those that don't mind getting physical.

Actually that is a huge factor. A special thanks for this little piece of advice.

One last question. Is a closed stand worth the extra money? I'm thinking it would help keep dust from getting in the motor.

 

[budnder]

It was an "upgrade kit" called "Rikon 14" Deluxe with Micro-Adjustable Guides" SKU RIK14DMA. They're supposed to arrive tomorrow so can't confirm that was the right thing to buy or not.

+1 for the 14" Rikon 10-325 or 326

I have had the 10-325 for a year and am pretty happy with it. I didn't realize how much resawing I would do until I had a saw that could do it

The guides on it are the one thing I have been a bit less than thrilled with (a bit hard to adjust), so I just ordered a set of guides from Carter Products to upgrade that.

Not sure if this is a factor, but I was able to set it up by myself without anyone else to help carry or lift. Not everyone might be comfortable with that, but it's possible for those that don't mind getting physical.

Which Carter guides did you buy? I need to get a set for mine as well.

 

[Edgar]

That's the way I assembled mine also.

I recommend the closed bottom. I don't know how much it keeps dust off the motor, but it does give you a couple of shelves for storing blades & such.

 

[jttheclockman]

You ask about a closed stand. Again it is a money thing. Whatever saw you buy may offer it either way and you have to decide on the money thing. It means absolutely nothing to accuracy or usability. As others said keeps motor clean and may also provide for better dust control with a dust collector. but My Delta is open stand and have no problem with it.

Again I will refer back to your opening statement and the possibility of doing segmenting work. As I stated you will not get off the blade good glue joints as you would with a tablesaw. You correct that with a sander of some sort and most go with a disc sander or combination disc/ belt sander. Just something to think about when spending money.

 

[Mr Vic]

I still swear by my Shopsmith Band Saw. I've had the Shopsmith over 20 years and other then wearing out the tires on the band saw I've had no problems. I keep the band saw set up all the time but it's just a quick loosen and slide over of the motor to convert back to the table saw. Actually takes longer to clear off the late tool from the table saw then to set it up. You can find like new ones on Craig's List. Guys buy them and then use a couple of times till the wife says use it or get it out of the garage. Used to turn on it but switched to the Jet 1014vs.

 

[TattooedTurner]

You ask about a closed stand. Again it is a money thing. Whatever saw you buy may offer it either way and you have to decide on the money thing. It means absolutely nothing to accuracy or usability. As others said keeps motor clean and may also provide for better dust control with a dust collector. but My Delta is open stand and have no problem with it.

Again I will refer back to your opening statement and the possibility of doing segmenting work. As I stated you will not get off the blade good glue joints as you would with a tablesaw. You correct that with a sander of some sort and most go with a disc sander or combination disc/ belt sander. Just something to think about when spending money.

Thanks for your thoughts on an open base. I have plenty of shelving so I don't need a closed base just for the storage area, and an open base is $70 - $100 less on the ones I've checked out. I have a 12" disc sander so cleaning up the cuts won't be an issue, but it does make me favor getting a table saw first. Not sanding saves time and removes an extra step for potential error. I also have 16 bowl blanks already, so I won't be cutting any until sometime after the holidays. I want to make some segmented pens & handles now.

Thanks again to everyone for the help.

 

[budnder]

FYI, since it came up here earlier... I just posted a review of my experience upgrading to Carter guides on my 14" Rikon:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f97/carter-guides-rikon-10-325-bandsaw-143320/#post1877098