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| Shops, Jigs, Fixtures & Tools Show off and discuss your workshop and everything in it. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 204
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So after tuning up my band saw, per everyone's suggestion here, the saw worked amazing for about 4 cuts.
Now it bogs down with even the slightest pressure...as it stands, it would probably take me 5 or 6 minutes to cut a blank! Obviously something is not right here....but what? I notice that the problem seems to get better if I put more tension on the blade...but I've heard that too much tension can cause the blade to snap, and that is not something I'm interested in happening! When shining a light on the blade and looking side-on, I notice that while it's getting up to speed when I first turn it on, the blade seems to wobble slightly forward and back. I'm not sure if this is related to the problem or not. All this trouble makes me want to go back to a miter box and hack saw :( |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Sounds like the belt between the motor and bottom wheel has stretched or needs tightening.
__________________
Andy Little
entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem. The popular interpretation of this principle is that the simplest explanation is usually the correct one. -Occam's Razor Common sense isn't always such a common thing. If it ain't broke.......then a little duct tape won't hurt it! ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Macomb County Michigan
Posts: 425
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Yes the drive belt would be my first look, Take it with you to any good auto parts store they will have a device to measure it. If the numbers are hard to read on it. They will be cheaper than at a tool place, and contrary to some places online for a regular V type belt they are the same!
Also recheck all your adjustments above and below the table, make sure they are tight. The bearing behind the blade on my import kept loosening up. The thumb turn screw was worn. I have found that the speed at which you can cut harder/denser woods on a band saw is a lot slower than I think it should be. That is why I'm working on my table saw to do most of the cutting with a thin kerf blade.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oradell, NJ
Posts: 243
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I don't mean to sound silly, but are you sure you installed the blade facing in the correct direction (i.e., the teeth/gullets pointing down)?
I once inadvertantly had a thin blade turn inside out and I installed it upside down. It cut for a few moments because the wood was scraping against the sharp teeth. So, just one more thing to check. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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I would throw away the v belt and get a link belt. Not only can the link belt be "tweaked" to perfect tension, it will run with considerably less vibration, last forever and will not develop a "memory" that causes a "wiggle" in bandsaws that get infrequent use.
These belts are a little expensive (about $6 per foot), UNLESS you calculate in the improved performance AND not having to buy belts again.
__________________
Andy Little
entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem. The popular interpretation of this principle is that the simplest explanation is usually the correct one. -Occam's Razor Common sense isn't always such a common thing. If it ain't broke.......then a little duct tape won't hurt it! ![]() |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 204
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Blade is facing correctly...it was the first thing I checked, haha!
The belt is a tiny little thing the goes from the motor to the lower wheel...and it seems to have a LOT of slack in it, which can't be good. I can push in a good inch or so on it. I imagine this belt should be taut, correct? |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Macomb County Michigan
Posts: 425
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Quote:
Also as been stated on this forum before check out those link belt adjustable drive belts as they are worth the money and adjusting them is a lot easier the the regular ones. Next one I get will be a link type belt. Woodcraft,Lee Valley etc. sell them.
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