$1 Pyramid tool made this weekend

[THarvey]

The cherry for the handle and the 3/8" cold steel rod came from my "I'll make something with this someday" pile.

I used a 1/2" flare nut (3/4" thread) for the ferrule. Cut a step tenon then cut the threads using the flare nut. Coated thread with polyurethane glue, to fill any gaps. I decided to leave corners on the nut. I like the different look, plus it serves as an index on the tool rest of my grinder.

My total our of pocket costs for this tool: $0.98 for the flare nut.

 

[randyrls]

The cherry for the handle and the 3/8" cold steel rod came from my "I'll make something with this someday" pile.

My total our of pocket costs for this tool: $0.98 for the flare nut.

Tim; That is handy and useful! good deal!

 

[nava1uni]

That looks really nice. I like the flare nut as a ferrule. Where did you get the steel rod?

 

[THarvey]

That looks really nice. I like the flare nut as a ferrule. Where did you get the steel rod?

My dad is a retired machinist and we have friends that own a machine shop. Before steel price got so high, I could go rummage through the scrap bins and take what I wanted. Now I have to compete with the scrap yards. :frown:

I had the rod left over from replacing the hanging rods for an antique porch glider.

Once I get the point like I want it, I will heat treat about 3-4" off the tip to harden it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

The pyramid is popular with a lot of folks. Have never tried on. But, I like your ingenuity. Your last post answered a question I was going to ask about tip hardness. Keep us posted with actual use results.

 

[THarvey]

The pyramid is popular with a lot of folks. Have never tried on. But, I like your ingenuity. Your last post answered a question I was going to ask about tip hardness. Keep us posted with actual use results.

I have used it already in the prehardened state. It works well or at least meets its intended purpose. It is nice for texturing and small design cuts. I doubt I will use it with pens, because it cuts quickly all the way to (and through) the tube. The only problem with it now is it dulls quickly with hard woods.

The steel is rather hard to begin with. The grinding of the point generates enough heat to anneal the steel. When I get the point to my liking, I will heat the end with a map gas tourch and quench in oil. There is 7" of rod from the handle, so the heat transfer should not be enough to effect the wood or epoxy.

BTW: The handle is sanded to 800 grit, EEE cream, then Myland's friction polish.