Wood Feel Finish, 2018, in the US - Page 2 - International Association of Penturners
     International Association of Penturners
Pens for Service Members
 
Support The IAP

Go Back   International Association of Penturners > Community Forums > Finishing
  Forgot Password
Register FAQ Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


Logged on members can hide ads!

Welcome to penturners.org!

You've found the home of The International Association of Penturners. You are currently viewing our site as a guest, which gives you limited access to view discussions, photos, and library articles.

Consider joining our community today. You'll have full access to all of our content, be able to enter our contests, find local chapters near you, and post your questions and share your experience with our members all over the world.

Membership is completely free!!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-09-2018, 10:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
rd_ab_penman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 1,328
Photos: 8

Default

To get the warm natural feel and look of wood I use MINWAX WBOM Clear Satin Polyurethane for an easy to apply durable finish using my dipping method.

Les
Attached Thumbnails
4-black-titanium-platinum-redwood-burl.jpg   4a-black-titanium-platinum-redwood-burl.jpg   1-minwax-satin.jpg  
__________________
Innovation is the process that renews something that already exists and not, as is commonly assumed, the introduction of something new.
rd_ab_penman is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 10-09-2018, 11:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX, NM or on the road
Posts: 1,583
Photos: 0

Default

There is no one single finish that will please everyone. I offered a polyurethane finish, CA and 2 version of a classic hand rubbed oil finish. The latter was the most labor intensive, but was usually the choice of the older mature buyers, the shiny version of the CA and poly was preferred by most of the younger buyers.

Gunstock finishing info for when using an oil finish.
http://www.sportingshooter.co.uk/fea...tock-1-5319016
https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037
Likes: (1)
dogcatcher is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 10-09-2018, 03:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Jacksonville, NC, USA.
Posts: 1,356
Photos: 4

Default

“So the question is, now tht it is now 2018, what products in the US are in use for giving natural wood feel finish, but last well?”

Choosing a clear finish for wood involves trade-offs between apppearance, protection, durability, and ease of application already mentioned.

Pentertrating finishes, tung or walnut oil will give you both natural look and feel of wood. Tung oil provides the most protection if given 4 to 6 coats. To aide in penetration and speed up drying times thinner is needed. While easy to apply drying times between coats even with thinner very long. Walnut oil (from salad oil industry) about the same in look & feel but offers little protection. JMHO would never use pure linseed or boiled linseed oil as a finishing materal.

Oil varnish blends provide low or moderate sheen depending upon amount of resign and chemical driers. While easy to apply durability big question!

Friction finishes either shellac or lacqure blends that contain oil & waxes while easy to apply durability big question!

Film finishes ( CA, chemcial resins either varnish or poly, lacquer & shellac) most versitile in sheen if know how to finish the finish.
__________________
Bill
Likes: (2)
Wildman is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Advertisement
Old 10-09-2018, 04:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
Member Liaison
 
leehljp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tunica, MS,
Posts: 6,125
Photos: 46

Default

Several gave some good ideas and suggestions and I whole heartedly agree. I also agree from experience that tung oil (not tung oil finish) provides the best protection but takes time for the catalyzing? process to work.

I am going to re-iterate the idea presented earlier that pens are not furniture. Pens can be made of wood and beautiful wood, but furniture wood is handled differently than pens, tremendously different.

Ever notice the kitchen cabinet that gets used the most? You know, the one with the most hand grime? Why does it look different from the others? It is handled more, probably 4 to 8 times a day. The others - once a day to once a week. Most fine wood furniture is not used a multiplicity of times a day. AND the furniture is in a confined space with similar temperatures and humidity year round. Wood pens are in sweaty pockets, in sweaty hands, in pockets with change or keys or in purses with keys and other things. Pens get hot and cold, in humidity and dry climates

Now as far as High End pens, more especially fountain pens, those are usually treated with a high degree of respect. And the owners of fountain pens are more likely to wipe and clean and even wax their pens on occasion.

I did a test on a couple of identical wood pens several years ago. I finished both pens with a good build up of CA. On one I made a smooth shine; on the other I made a good shine to make sure it was perfect like the other and then dropped down to about 3000/3600 micro mesh. Looked dull for CA but it actually looked like wood. The CA was clear but without the shine it looked like slightly buffed wood, and it had a "feel" of wood. Russ Fairfield taught me that trick about "tactile" feel. Works too!

As has been mentioned - there are different finishes for different situations and what works in one situation probably will not work well in a different situation. While you are thinking in terms of 2018 and all the new stuff we should be able to do in todays world, remember there are finishes on some fine antique (and EXPENSIVE) furniture that is over a few hundred years old. The point is that it is as much the skill, technique and patience that makes the finish be what is wanted by the maker. In this case many finishes will work, but it takes practice and experience to do that.

Martin has mastered the urushi finish. He makes his own and he gets upwards of $1000 - $2000 for each pen. Practice and experience.
__________________
Hank Lee

Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!
Likes: (1)
leehljp is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 10-09-2018, 09:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 27
Photos: 10

Default

I should have asked everyone to post a photo showing their results with the products/techniques suggested.

It would be interesting to have a forum where everyone creates and posts photos of a pen where we all use the same kind of wood (something common) and the same kit (something simple/cheap that shows off the wood), but different finishes, which we explain in detail.
JonathanF1968 is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 10-09-2018, 11:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
jttheclockman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NJ, USA.
Photos: 83

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonathanF1968 View Post
I should have asked everyone to post a photo showing their results with the products/techniques suggested.

It would be interesting to have a forum where everyone creates and posts photos of a pen where we all use the same kind of wood (something common) and the same kit (something simple/cheap that shows off the wood), but different finishes, which we explain in detail.
You will not see much difference with a photo. In hand is best look and feel.
__________________
John T.
jttheclockman is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 10-10-2018, 07:17 AM   #17 (permalink)
Member Liaison
 
leehljp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tunica, MS,
Posts: 6,125
Photos: 46

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonathanF1968 View Post
I should have asked everyone to post a photo showing their results with the products/techniques suggested.

It would be interesting to have a forum where everyone creates and posts photos of a pen where we all use the same kind of wood (something common) and the same kit (something simple/cheap that shows off the wood), but different finishes, which we explain in detail.
Here is the photo of two pens, both CA, one shine and one matt, referenced in my post:

http://www.penturners.org/photos/ima...2Fin_1Burl.jpg

I don't think you van take a matt finish/varnish/poly/satin and make it shine, but you can take a gloss and make it matt with steel wool or high grit sandpaper - which will give it a "tactile" wood feel.
__________________
Hank Lee

Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

Last edited by leehljp; 10-10-2018 at 07:22 AM.
leehljp is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 10-10-2018, 08:48 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
TonyL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 5,574
Photos: 6

Default

I don't know if mentioned above, but there is also craftcoat and general finishes wood turners finish. Ed of Exotics has some videos featuring these products.
__________________
Am I not destroying my enemies when I make friends of them? Abraham Lincoln

Peace,

Tony

Member of Local IAP Georgia Chapter meets quarterly in Roswell, GA
TonyL is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Related Content
Logged on members can hide ads
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:27 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

Content Copyright © 2003-2018 by Penturners.org, LLC; All Rights Reserved
Terms Of Service   Acceptable Use Policy