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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 08-18-2016, 05:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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And for something completely different . . .

Solid wood, sand to 800# with Abranet, polish to 12000# Micro mesh, EEE polish (breaks down to 20000# equivilency) then Aussie Oil * 4 light coats.

Burl Wood, remove the EEE, the wax can get into the cracks. Or if you seal the cracks with thin CA, then as Solid wood.

Acrylics/Worthless Wood etc, sand to 800# with Abranet, polish to 12000# Micro mesh, EEE polish (breaks down to 20000# equivilency) then Meguires Plastx.

Depending on the phase of the moon, how I hold my tongue and sheer fluke, I can start sanding at 400#
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I have tried different finishes over a period of time from linseed oil to a epoxy finish. For the most part I now use Drs. Woodshop Pen Plus on wood. Generally, I sand from 400 grit to 5000 grit depending on the wood. I do not follow the instructions that Drs. Woodshop prescribes, but rather have developed my own process that works for me. I tend to favor a nice satin finish on wood as opposed to a high gloss. I guess what it boils down to is ---The best finish is the one you like and works best for you.

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Old 08-18-2016, 08:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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For wood, I have been using Minwax Wipe On Polyurethane pretty exclusively the past 12 months.

NOTE: This takes a lot of time! (Which I have). After sanding to 600 with abranet, I use compressed air to get the dust out of the pores. Then apply an initial coat of WOP. This will soak in quickly, so I usually apply x3 within the first 30 minutes. Then let dry for 3-4 hours.

I reapply x1, then again let dry 3-4 hrs. After the third coat is dry (overnight), I use the cotton rag which I used to apply the 3 coats (cut up t-shirts), which is now semi hard, to lightly burnish any rough spots. (This is similar to using the same spot on a towel with Dr's Woodshed Pen Plus).

Now I use a new cotton rag (2" x 2") to apply 4-8 coats until I get the shine/depth I want (waiting 3-4 hours between coats).

This does take me 1-2 days, but I usually have several other projects in process, so it is not an issue with me. If you have a tighter time-frame, this may not be your choice for a finish.

Finally; I do not like a CA finish. I sell very few pens - usually going to family or friends to give away, so I ask for material cost only. I like a more natural "wood" feel. I prefer a Urethane finish which will have more "flexibility" with humidity and temperature fluctuations; but I realize it will not be as durable.


Three winters ago I watched and listened to a pen with a CA finish in my work vehicle at 5:30 AM with a negative 25 degrees temperature literally crack and split as I watched it; pretty funny actually! Should I have kept it inside - sure... will my family and friends also be mindful - not likely!

I am very aware that others need to be mindful of what their customers want, so my comments are just for consideration.

But, as with the brittleness of PR and the flexibility of Alumilite - there are tradeoffs. One may take a more durable shine and crack with a drop; and the other is more prone to scratches with abuse, but may survive a drop.

Have FUN!
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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For Wood is use CA around 10 - 12 coats and then sanded up to 600 with micromesh followed by acrylic polishing pads and then Dr Kirks. I use the same process for acrylics with the omission of the CA.
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Old 08-19-2016, 12:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Without getting into the technique of finishing, I'll say that I've used CA from Mercury Adhesives for a few years and have found it excellent on wood. For acrylics, I just turn, polish with water & Barry Gross' small pads, and then a little polishing compound or buffing wheels.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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1-2 coats thin Ca.... 5 coats Medium ca.... micro mesh sand... 2 passes novius 2... 2 passes renaissance wax... Game Over!
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