What next???

[MDWine]

I sanded my blank through 150/220/320/400/600/800.

I sprayed the blank with DEFT sanding sealer, allowed it to dry, then sanded it down with 800 again.

I have sprayed it with the DEFT satin poly, and it has dried all night...

Question is, what next? Should I sand again with 800, or hit it with 4X steel wool? I want to hit it again with another, perhaps two, coats of the satin poly...

I suppose either could work, what you YOU do?

I'm NEWBIE and lovin' it!

 

[jdavis]

I would put on another coat of poly and then sand before the lsat coat.

 

[Gary]

Either (#800 grit or #0000 wool) will work fine between coats. Just do it lightly, whichever you use. All you want to do is scuff the surface and remove dust nibs.

Btw...welcome to the group.

 

[Old Griz]

If you are using Poly, you always want to scuff and even the surface before additional coats.. unlike lacquer and shellac, poly does not burn into the prior layer, it sits on tope of it... if there are any dust nibs or uneveness it will just show through... and if the surface is not scuffed, it will not bond as well...
0000 wool should do the trick, but as Gary said, a real light buffing.. just enough to even it out and remove any dust...

 

[MDWine]

I worked the surface of the first layer of spray-poly with #0000 steel wool last night. It is looking pretty good, I think. I put another coat of the Deft on it and am letting it sit.

This is not much fun. My patience is not the best, I really want to put this thing together, but I also want it to look good... so I do what I must.

I've got to get more kits!!! I have two more kits "in stock", so I will prep two more blanks tonight and get ready to turn them by the end of the week.

I was able to find the match to the grain on pen #1, so I'll get some pics of it tomorrow too.

 

[Gregory Huey]

Every one wants to rush the finish (including myself). Don't, it is the most important part of the pen making. A poor finish will make a great pen look like **** you know what.

 

[pastorbill1952]

Sounds to me like he's HOOKED!!!!!!!!LOL I talked with someone yestreday and they have 3 lathes so that they can "keep going" BTW, the spray acrylic dries to recoat in about 30 minutes.

 

[MDWine]

OK Bill... don't make fun, it's IAP's fault anyway!
Lou (my Sensei) was a facilitator as well, and Tom (Griz) is going to fuel the fire!
Y'all should be ashamed of yourselves for supporting the madness![]

Actually, hooked is probably a mild term for what I have... I was just looking at all the fabulous wood on ebay too... drooling... wishing it was payday!

Now, when I get my tax refund ... LOOK OUT!!!!![][][]

 

[JimGo]

lol...Mike, just wait, it gets worse!

 

[DCBluesman]

Ok, Grasshopper, [] part of the trick to this hobby is to have pens at various stages in the process. I understand the desire to get to the "completed" stage, but if it isn't finished properly, it will never be properly finished. Instead of another finish layer (or 3) before you start your next pens, go ahead and do BOTH tonight. That way you can make noticeable progress everytime you get some shop time! In the interim, try catching flies with chopsticks. It's a nice diversion. []

 

[MDWine]

I am cutting new blanks and gluing up tonight, so I will be turning on Sunday (making a trip to see Griz on Saturday!).

I'm still turning my chopsticks![]

 

[Old Griz]

Mike, don't forget to bring your turning tools with you (you can leave the lathe home,, LOL)...
If anyone else is in the area or close by (Western Md.. Washington County).. let me know if you want to come over tomorrow afternoon, we can all learn from each other... and have some fun...
BTW, Mike one of the reasons for having multiple sets of mandrels is so you can have work at different stages of development... I have 4 sets of mandrels and morse tapers now..

 

[JimGo]

Tom,
I think there's still too much going on with our new house for me to make it. It is REALLY tempting, and if my wife wouldn't kill me, I'd love to be there! Hopefully we'll make it out to see you at one of the weekend craft shows soon. Thanks for the invitation!

 

[Old Griz]

Just tell the wife you are visiting a very very ill friend who desperately needs your help... LOL... or in other words lie through your teeth.. LOL

 

[JimGo]

And when I come back with a few "freshly turned" pens...? I guess I must have found those on the side of the road!

 

[Old Griz]

NO NO NO.. MAN do we need to teach you everything... those were gifts from your buddy in appreciation for being there in his time of need... GEEZ, some guys just need to be lead by the hand in every little thing... LOL

 

[lkorn]

Don't forget, you have to TURN your own chopsticks[8D]

Originally posted by DCBluesman <br />Ok, Grasshopper, In the interim, try catching flies with chopsticks. It's a nice diversion. []

 

[lkorn]

Griz, I bought three morse tapers from that outfit that just went out of business. None of my mandrels fit it. Do I need to go to PSI for the steel rods? The mandrels I have came from Woodcraft, which I guess means that are Berea's.

Originally posted by Old Griz
I have 4 sets of mandrels and morse tapers now..

 

[JimGo]

I think so Larry. If I remember correctly, each company uses a slightly differnet size mandrel, which means they may not fit in the other manufacturers' Morse tapers.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Nils. Are you reading this?

Originally posted by JimGo
<br />I think so Larry. If I remember correctly, each company uses a slightly differnet size mandrel, which means they may not fit in the other manufacturers' Morse tapers.

 

[JimGo]

Tom, thanks...hadn't thought of that! Guess I haven't been married long enough to be THAT devious!

 

[Rifleman1776]

I guess I'm one that likes to get things over with. I use Myland's because it dries almost instantly. My routine is sand while spinning fast with 220, stop sand with grain using the 220, spin again sanding with 320 then sand using the white pad that looks like scotchbrite, that is either 800 or 1200 depending on which supplier you believe. Then while spinning slowly I apply Myland's sanding sealer X2, then Myland's friction finish X2, then Myland's melamine finish X2, then stop and using the damp application cloth polish with the grain. Stopping to sand with the grain is a tip from Lou and it has improved the appearance of my pens dramatically. Then the final rub with grain on the last finish coat has eliminated miro spiral lines that I had thought were in the wood but actually were caused by finish application with the wood spinning. I still don't get a glassy shiny finish and, truth be told, that is not my taste. I prefer a more natural wood finish. But if that doesn't prove commercial I will definately look to changing technique to get the (unnatural) shiny finish. With apologies to those who work hard for that glass like shiny look.

Originally posted by Gregory Huey
<br />Every one wants to rush the finish (including myself). Don't, it is the most important part of the pen making. A poor finish will make a great pen look like **** you know what.

 

[Old Griz]

Larry the morse tapers he was selling were Berea's... since I have only Berea mandrels I did not have a problem...

 

[JimGo]

Frank,
Did you ever get in on the MicroMesh buy? You'd be amazed how shiny "natural" wood can look!

 

[lkorn]

Hoe did you get to be so lucky![8] If my mandrels came from Woodcraft, shouldn't they be Berea's as well? But they don't fit. I thing my PSI Mandrel is in the attic wit the old Craftsman lathe waiting for its new owner to come home from his Med cruise. I'll have to dig it out see if it fits.

Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />Larry the morse tapers he was selling were Berea's... since I have only Berea mandrels I did not have a problem...