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Old 09-17-2017, 05:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Using Finishing Oils

I'd like to use oil on certain woods...just to experiment.
For the past few years I have been using EEE, Hylands friction, CA, Carnuba...lately have been using Zainners BullsEye sander-sealer on bottle stopper blanks.(and I like Zainners).
I have used Tru-Oil years ago..it was part of the Birchwood Casey refinishing kit. Worked out real nice.
Tung oil and Tru-Oil have my attention. What oils are you using and why. How does it look after being repeatedly handled. Thanks for your replies.
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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BLO and Tung Oil

BLO is inexpensive, easy to find (every hardware store has it), and is effective.

Tung Oil is hard to find and more expensive, but it is more water resistant, and it dries to a lighter amber color than BLO.

Tung Oil is probably more food-safe than BLO - just because BLO is made using metallic driers.

In general, I prefer Tung oil on nicer pieces, but use BLO in instances where I can be satisfied with the slightly less desirable properties it has, eg, tool handles.
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I use a homemade version of teak oil on most of my game calls, it is a mix of BLO, mineral spirits and varnish. Check out Russ Fairfield's finishing secrets on this link. Russ's Corner: A WoodCentral Archive

Items 6 and 7 are the ones with oil finishing secrets.

If you want a good link for secrets of applying oil finishes, search "Frank Whiton classic gunstock finish".
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Old 09-18-2017, 12:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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I've used doctors woodshop walnut oil on a few pens, finished with pens plus. I really like the finish.
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Old 09-18-2017, 01:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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On S&P shakers and other large non pen items I use the tung oil sealer sold by Lee Valley because I like a matte finish . Pure tung oil also available from them will give a fairly high gloss finish .
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Old 09-18-2017, 09:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by dogcatcher View Post
I use a homemade version of teak oil on most of my game calls, it is a mix of BLO, mineral spirits and varnish. Check out Russ Fairfield's finishing secrets on this link. Russ's Corner: A WoodCentral Archive

Russ Fairfield's pages have some excellent information.

Teak oil is another variant on the Danish oil/wiping varnish theme. They are all blends of a drying oil (BLO, Tung oil, Walnut oil, etc), a suitable thinner, and varnish solids. Fairfield describes a version that he implies is similar to the commercial Waterlox that is a blend of high-grade varnish, Tung oil and turpentine that I have used a lot.

But - when you go into a hardware or big box store, the can marked 'Tung oil' is most likely a variation of Danish oil and not pure Tung oil. Pure oil is hard to find - look for a container that clearly says 'Pure' Tung oil, and check the contents - if it contains a solvent, it's a Danish oil, not pure Tung oil.

And while we are on the subject - there is a difference between BLO and raw Linseed Oil. BLO contains metallic (cadmium?) driers, that don't go well with a ham sandwich. Pure Linseed Oil is food safe (it is expressed from flax seed, which makes it a first cousin to linen), but it dries VERY slowly (weeks to months) and isn't a practical finish by itself. Chemically, BLO is partially polymerized to dry quickly - originally, that partial polymerization was created by actually boiling the oil, hence the name 'boiled linseed oil'. Today, partial polymerization is created by adding metallic driers. It's not a good idea to try to make your own by boiling raw linseed oil - that's a good way to start a fire.
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Old 09-18-2017, 09:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Worth checking out...American made tung oil.
http://www.gulfcoasttungoil.com

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Old 12-07-2017, 04:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I worked with Tru-Oil on a Goncalo Alves blank. It finished real nice. However it requires multiple coats and a long drying period. For the cost of the bottle and the process I feel CA is better to use on a stopper or pen. My .02 but just for now...it might change.
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Old 12-07-2017, 05:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Worth checking out...American made tung oil.
Retail Sales

Originally from China and Burma (now Myanmar), Tung trees were imported to the US in the early part of the 20th century, and became a commercial crop in Florida and a few other southeastern states.
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monophoto View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loucurr View Post
Worth checking out...American made tung oil.
Retail Sales

Originally from China and Burma (now Myanmar), Tung trees were imported to the US in the early part of the 20th century, and became a commercial crop in Florida and a few other southeastern states.
Thanks for the link. I'll keep this in mind. I do have a container of TungOil. Not sure where,when,how it's going to be used. I guess it depends on the wood being used.
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