True oil as a pen finish?

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dogcatcher

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Joined
Jul 4, 2007
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TX, NM or on the road
On the first coat, let the Tru-Oil soak in real good, wet sand with your highest grit. The wet sanding will help to fill in any pores. The time frame between coats depends on temperature, humidity and how fresh the Tru-Oil is. I usually wait at least 24 hours, we have low humidity and temps are either mild or HOT.

For a good set of instructions look up Frank Whiton gunstock finish. There are a couple of them on the Internet, in my opinion are worth reading even if you do not use an oil finish.
 
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
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Albion, MI, 49224
On the first coat, let the Tru-Oil soak in real good, wet sand with your highest grit. The wet sanding will help to fill in any pores. The time frame between coats depends on temperature, humidity and how fresh the Tru-Oil is. I usually wait at least 24 hours, we have low humidity and temps are either mild or HOT.

For a good set of instructions look up Frank Whiton gunstock finish. There are a couple of them on the Internet, in my opinion are worth reading even if you do not use an oil finish.

Bingo it is how I do it.
 

KenV

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Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
4,720
Location
Juneau, Alaska.
Not to step into the hot end of the debate -- but there are a couple of down sides to Tru Oil.

It is amber -- and will give an amber tint to woods. As a gunstock finish on walnut and dark woods, it is very compatible. Be aware of the color if you are working with light colored woods. I like it with rosewoods and cocobolo -- and other dense oily woods.

It is easy to repair and easy to damage. Like all oil finishes, it is fairly soft compared to lacquer or a CA finish.

I use it or one of the other "stand oil" finishes on turnings, and use it with CA instead of Boiled Linseed oil. Good tool for the finish collection, but not the best for all situations.
 

ghostrider

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Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
952
Location
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Tru-Oil is a linseed oil based product so take the standard precautions for working with BLO and it's cleanup.

I used some for a straight razor I did in Bolivian Rosewood a few years back and probably built it up too much. I was able to hand rub a nice luster to it, but that quickly went away once I started getting it wet while shaving.

The others on here probably have more experience with it than I do, but that's my $.02

Love the smell of it.
 

Scruffy

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Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Messages
345
Location
Alabama
Alternative

Agree with Ken about amber colored oils (BLO, Tung,..). When I want to pop the grain in some woods and not change to color I use Mineral Oil from the drug section. It seems thinner and may take a couple coats and that extends dry-wait time. But it does pop the grain and you can use finishes over it.

I like True Oil as a finish.

Alan
 
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