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Old 02-09-2019, 03:17 PM   #21 (permalink)
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 71
Photos: 10


Great idea !
I would be concerned about shop dust settling on your newly coated turning though ...
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
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CA finishes are surprisingly easy. There is no real reason to avoid/delay them. Over time, they get faster/easier/better. If you start early with CA, then that time arrives faster.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:04 AM   #23 (permalink)
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Port Hedland Western Australia
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I have used the dip method for a couple of years after getting a reaction from CA.
I block the lower end of the tube with a disposable earplug. I use an earplug glued to a dowel to block the top and as a handle to dip, remove excess varnish and to hang for drying.
This method takes several days to complete 3 coats but the strength, depth and shine of the finish is worth the wait.
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,697
Photos: 42


Originally Posted by bsshog40 View Post
Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
Originally Posted by bsshog40 View Post
Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
If you are going to do poly, why not try some lacquer. Gives a deeper shine and works great on wood.
I don't have any. Lol I planned on getting some of that also to compare finishes and see what I like.
You will be amazed at the difference. Lacquer is thinner than poly so you may need to build but the great thing about lacquer is it will melt into the last coat unlike poly where it just lays on top and that is why many times it needs a tooth to adhere well and sanding is required between coats.

Again all this stuff comes down to what you are looking for and everyone has their own tastes and desires when it comes to finish. No right and wrong here. If experimenting make notes of what you are doing so that you can duplicate the results if need be. Also remember not all woods finish the same way. Open grained woods, oily woods, closed grained woods and so on all play a role. have fun.
Yes sir! I'm actually doing another one but this time got me a can deft lacquer. I'm using wenge wood and it seems a little pourus. When I use poly on anything, I sand with 1000 grit after each coat. Did the same with the shellac and plan on doing it with the lacquer. I do it just in case there's something too small for me to feel or see. Lol Luckily, the lacquer does dry about half the time of poly. We'll see how it does. Time doesn't bother me too much using poly and so far I like the finish I got with the poly. Hopefully the lacquer will turn out as good.
A technique I use with wenge to fill the grain is glue sanding. When I am ready to start sanding, I will take a piece of sandpaper...usually about 220 or so, and put a stripe of medium CA on it and sand. The sandpaper makes a slurry with the glue and the sawdust and fills the pores, and keeps the wenge from throwing splinters....wenge splinters are really mean and usually become infected. Sand off the excess glue and sand and finish with whatever finish you want. The deep pores and splinters of the wenge will be filled and you can get a beautiful smooth finish.
Sharon in Phoenix

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Old 02-13-2019, 07:42 PM   #25 (permalink)
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Wolf Creek Montana
Posts: 594
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Nice idea on the drying rack. I normally just set them on the workbench. Thanks for sharing. But your shop seems way to clean...really... know saw dust on the shelves? Maybe you cleaned up before you shot the photo.
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