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Old 11-23-2017, 01:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Just to add to my previous comments. I've never turned Wenge and didn't know it was an oily wood. In the past I have attempted to use WOP on some oily woods such as cocobolo without success. For those oily woods I do a CA finish. However, I don't have the experience or knowledge that JT has. Maybe if I did I would have success.
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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After curing the oil poly.. should there be any problem adding coats of water based poly on top? I'm guessing not. I now have three coats of oil based on this and can still see pores that are chomping at the bit to be filled.
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Wildman Bill.. Someone else suggested the same thing. Strip and start over after a good wipe down with acetone.. I hope I don't have to resort to that. If that happens, I'l turn this one into a wine bottle stopper where I have no push to finish it.. and start a new one for the brush.
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
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After curing the oil poly.. should there be any problem adding coats of water based poly on top? I'm guessing not. I now have three coats of oil based on this and can still see pores that are chomping at the bit to be filled.

Again Bill I am voicing my opinion and my opinion alone. Others may have had different experiences and you can follow their suggestions.

You should have filled the pores before you top coated. Everytime you add more finish on top you just keep adding a deeper hole unless you sand back and use the poly as the filler.

Bill you should not mix products water with oil. Read the can about adding coats. If you let dry too long you have to wait longer than if you apply in a certain time slot. Many times they will say to sand or roughen up the prior coat if you wait too long. Instructions on the cans are for a reason and if you still have questions all products have web sites to check for further info.

If you started using oil and want to switch to waterbase you need to have the oil cured completely and that takes a long time. Usually shorter time in reverse but I never like that idea. The same thing goes for using oil stains and top coating with oil poly or vice versa. Mixing products is just not a good idea.

If anyone tells you to use steel wool please ignore. They sell woven pads that imitate steel wool and are made for wood. Steel wool is made for metals in today's market. Trust me on this.
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Thanks again, JT.. This confirms my doubt. I think I'll start a new one and lt this one cure for a bottle stopper after adding more poly. Now, in no hurry.
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:45 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Isn't it quite possible, that putting it in the microwave could cause the wood to split? While your doing this to dry the finish, your causing the brass insert to expand and the wood to shrink. Even though the shrink and expansion of these two parts is minimal, it could be enough to cause the cracking. And now that think of it, the cracking could be caused by whatever you used to glue the parts together. There's all kinds of different reasons for blanks cracking, I don't think we will ever figure the reason out.
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Thanks, Lucky2. No inserts or glue/ca at the time I did do the 2 short bursts in the mW. This is a handle for a badger brush shaving accy. It did, however, do some fracturing along the grain lines as mentioned. Those voids were then filled with a bit of CA.

Appreciate taking the time to offer a suggestion.

Cheers, Bill
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Isn't it quite possible, that putting it in the microwave could cause the wood to split? While your doing this to dry the finish, your causing the brass insert to expand and the wood to shrink. Even though the shrink and expansion of these two parts is minimal, it could be enough to cause the cracking. And now that think of it, the cracking could be caused by whatever you used to glue the parts together. There's all kinds of different reasons for blanks cracking, I don't think we will ever figure the reason out.
Absolutely true. For what we do heat is never a good thing especially if it is forced. When people put pen blanks in an oven or microwave to get the moisture content down they can very easily introduce hairline cracks within that blank that may show up at any time latter on. Wood is slow dried. Finishes are slow dried.
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Old 11-25-2017, 06:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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On your top coat only, if it feels sticky but is cured enough not to "pill" when rubbed, you might try rubbing on a top coat of wax. I have had success solving that problem on other turned object that way.
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Old 11-25-2017, 04:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Thanks arkie, I may try that at a later time.
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