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Old 12-02-2016, 06:11 PM   #61 (permalink)
 
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https://jet.com/product/detail/6a30c...QCgw&gclsrc=ds
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Peace,

Tony

Lathes: JET 1221VS & 1015 VS; Rikon 70-100 for buffing;
Harbor Freight for applying CA finish
- Trim blanks on the lathe w/a disk sander; Rick Herrell's
trimming jig.
- Turn with HSS (D-way or Thompson) - Dry sand to 2K, 4-Stage Buffing "System", Meguiar's 105 & 205, & Rejex synthetic wax
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Old 12-03-2016, 10:41 AM   #62 (permalink)
 
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Keith call my cell.

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Am I not destroying my enemies when I make friends of them? Abraham Lincoln

Peace,

Tony

Lathes: JET 1221VS & 1015 VS; Rikon 70-100 for buffing;
Harbor Freight for applying CA finish
- Trim blanks on the lathe w/a disk sander; Rick Herrell's
trimming jig.
- Turn with HSS (D-way or Thompson) - Dry sand to 2K, 4-Stage Buffing "System", Meguiar's 105 & 205, & Rejex synthetic wax
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Old 12-03-2016, 01:56 PM   #63 (permalink)
 
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Will any of these versions self level on a slow speed turner, say at 5 rpm?
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Old 12-03-2016, 02:30 PM   #64 (permalink)
 
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They all self level on flat surfaces. And the thicker stuff self levels at 160 I haven't tried any slower. The issue is have to light wrap it with saran wrap so it cure hard without the oxygen inhibition. No matter how gently you apply the saran wrap, it spoils the leveling.

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Am I not destroying my enemies when I make friends of them? Abraham Lincoln

Peace,

Tony

Lathes: JET 1221VS & 1015 VS; Rikon 70-100 for buffing;
Harbor Freight for applying CA finish
- Trim blanks on the lathe w/a disk sander; Rick Herrell's
trimming jig.
- Turn with HSS (D-way or Thompson) - Dry sand to 2K, 4-Stage Buffing "System", Meguiar's 105 & 205, & Rejex synthetic wax
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Old 12-03-2016, 05:39 PM   #65 (permalink)
 
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Hey Tony, sorry just got your message. Been at a show all day and just got home. I'll try to call you later if that's ok.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:34 AM   #66 (permalink)
 
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No worries. And no need to ask when to call

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Am I not destroying my enemies when I make friends of them? Abraham Lincoln

Peace,

Tony

Lathes: JET 1221VS & 1015 VS; Rikon 70-100 for buffing;
Harbor Freight for applying CA finish
- Trim blanks on the lathe w/a disk sander; Rick Herrell's
trimming jig.
- Turn with HSS (D-way or Thompson) - Dry sand to 2K, 4-Stage Buffing "System", Meguiar's 105 & 205, & Rejex synthetic wax
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:52 AM   #67 (permalink)
 
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Just tried some thin hard building up over a snake skin at about 5 rpm. Seemed to work ok, but for me would probably prefer something a little lower in viscosity. I let it rotate for quite a while hoping to get a little more level. Once it gets a little warmer I will get into the shop and sand it round. Shows a lot of promise for many of the things I want to try. Thanks for bringing to our attention.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:06 AM   #68 (permalink)
 
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I've got to try this. Tony, are you still happy with it and has the formula made for you being mass produced yet?

Lewis
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:39 AM   #69 (permalink)
 
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Bruce and I are using this now and experimenting with different application processes. I am using their Thin Hard formula and find that two coats applied with craft foam or a disposable brush work very well. We have also experimented with CO2 and different lighting " systems"while applying the finish to perfect the cure. It is not needed but makes for a super hard finish. Without the CO2, I have to sand a little more, but can still achieve a CA-like finish.

There are a handful of turners here that use a different Solarez product and report excellent results. I have not been able to achieve those results unless I use the process that I practice.

I just finished a pen with it on Thursday and mailed it to a fellow turner. It is a surprise, so I don't want to post the picture. He should receive it tomorrow.

It is my opinion, that if applied "right":
- It is more durable that CA (this is just anecdotal...I have dropped a barrel from a height of 7 feet and did not scratch it).
- Takes less time because only 2 or 3 coats or used with significant build-up and ostensibly less sanding - but must be applied right (not unlike a CA finish).
- It takes on a high gloss shine, but must be buffed or whatever system you use, very well; it is very hard.
- The cost is about the same as a decent quality CA when purchased in the 4 ounce size but you save on labor/time.
- You don't have to worry about water - the product is hydrophobic.

I can publish what Bruce and I are doing now, but I am still trying different approaches and would prefer to wait. However, I would be delighted to tell anyone over the phone what I do. It is no secret and just don't want it memorialized in an email until I am 100% satisfied that it is the best approach that I can practice. If I had a GoPro...which maybe I will buy, I would show folks what I do and what I am trying to perfect..maybe I wll buy one today.

I have used 4 or 5 of their formulas, and I like their Thin Hard product in the 4 ounce size the best from cost/finish/application perspective.

That's where I am..I really like the stuff. I have already given away half of my CA. I will still use CA, but starting to use it less often as a finish. I don't think Solarez will ever replace CA as a finish for the CA learning curve is shorter and it has a much longer proven track record. Just my 1/2 cent worth opinion.
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Am I not destroying my enemies when I make friends of them? Abraham Lincoln

Peace,

Tony

Lathes: JET 1221VS & 1015 VS; Rikon 70-100 for buffing;
Harbor Freight for applying CA finish
- Trim blanks on the lathe w/a disk sander; Rick Herrell's
trimming jig.
- Turn with HSS (D-way or Thompson) - Dry sand to 2K, 4-Stage Buffing "System", Meguiar's 105 & 205, & Rejex synthetic wax
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:37 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Tony,

I went to the web site and noticed another product called Matte Finish Doming Resin. While it is "doming" resin, it can be thinned with warming in hot water. My thoughts on the Matte is that it could be a finish for those who want or would consider a finish for protection but do not like the gloss.

Matte finishes make it more "woody" looking while giving protection. I don't think the majority of pen makers would like this but it does seem to be a possible option for those that want protection for the wood, want it to look more wood like and not be glossy.

Have you tried the doming? And what drawbacks do you see? Is doming Solarez a viable finish, in your opinion?
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