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Old 11-11-2016, 01:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithncsu View Post
Awesome!!! How thick was the buildup on your test?
Keith , I only applied 2 thin coats , once sanded and buffed it did not seem very thick , I would say the viscosity is similar to medium CA when I applied it , quick thought is its probably about the same if not slightly thinner finished than CA . It feels very durable once done , I'll do some drop tests later and ding it up too and see what happens .
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Im just thinking in terms of final dimensions and the kit parts. Would you say 2 coats was enough?
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:49 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by keithncsu View Post
Im just thinking in terms of final dimensions and the kit parts. Would you say 2 coats was enough?
After only one test with this I don't think I could say for sure , it seems to be if it is a durable as I expect , but I would myself prefer to have 3 coats at this point , looking at it in person it seems thin , perhaps Tony can shed some light on thickness as he has more experience than I do . What I can say now is I think this is a viable finish , easy to apply and cure , easy to sand and buff , and seems pretty tough . I just don't have enough experience with it to state much more right now .
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Old 11-11-2016, 04:02 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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I gauge the thickness the same way that I gauge medium CA. However, I use a non absorbent material when applying SR; I use PTs with CA. Per 2 inch or so barrel, I put two drops of SR on craft foam, then hit with the light, then repeat that 3 or 4 more times.

If it's longer than 2 inches, I use 3 drops of SR. The key is to apply even coats, the CF makes is easier to distribute the product evenly and get it to the ends. I dry sand from 600 to 800 highly (no shiny spots) up through 2000 then the buffing wheels. I may, as Herb does, use less and go right to the buffers.

I have dropped a barrel several times from a height of 7 feet and couldn't find a scratch...yet it sands...I don't get it.

Still experimenting...CA isn't going anywhere soon.

Just like CA; I am sure there will be hundreds of ways to do this right.
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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I would love to hear what anyone's experiences has been. Please post anything you want about UV or LED cured alternatives to CA. Let's share our experiences.
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:02 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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I also have sinus issues with CA and was willing to give solarez a go when it was brought up by Tony. It was useful for me to read the solarez frequently asked questions on their web site and then I leaned on two you tube videos on application and cure. One video showed the application on a pool stick which I tried to copy. The other video was of an individual applying it to a table top. His cure method was to take the table into the sun for a few seconds, let the cure get activated for a few seconds, bring it back in the shade, back in the sun... I don't have a UV light so I also tried to copy the method in that video. I'm sure just using amUV light would be more convenient and cut down on time, but I don't have one. Perhaps using the high noon sun is a better cure anyway?? I do like the finish. It looks very similar to CA but it feels different. It's hard to explain but during the sanding phase it feels more flexible and the feel seems softer (not sure that makes sense but I don't know how else to explain). For a short period of time before the cure it does smell like polyester resin but I'll take the smell over the reaction I get from CA.

I forgot to say, I did use sealer first. Put it on just like I do CA. Let it cure, sand to 400, then three coats of the other solarez in the picture. Finished just like I do CA. Sand to 800, then buff.

Redwood burl on a sierra.

Hope this helps some.
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:14 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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The softer finish post-cure is just a little oxygen inhibition...you sand that off with 600 and above SP. Below that ..it is cured. You are also using a product that is not ideally suited for pens. I have the ones that are, including a special blend that is unbelievable but not yet for sale.

I wll pm you my number. give me a buzz in 15 minutes if you can..I will be driving to a WW store. You can use what you bought and several on here do, and have great results, but according to Gary (Founder), it is not the best for pens, but it is less expensive.
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Old 11-12-2016, 10:37 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Just got your msg. I'm heading out also--big college game day!

What you say makes sense. I'll use up what I have and then maybe hold out for what is not on the market yet. Hopefully what I have is a durable finish.
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Old 11-12-2016, 11:05 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Tony, not that I want to push you into something. But... can you make a key ring and put it on your car-key? And just use it regular way. Would be nice to hear what do you thing in a month or so. Just to test durability of the finish.
I read that you were dropping it and there were no sign of something and I got that.
And one more thing... Can you try to put 1-2 layers of thin CA and than apply Solarez? Will it hold? Just a question for which it would be nice to have some answer. (I saw that it went fine on sealer though)
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Old 11-12-2016, 02:14 PM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Hi: I don't understand the car key ring question, please rephrase.
According to Gary, the inventor, it will bond to CA.

I posted what i bought which is different from what others bought. I don't know if my answers apply to the other products, but if you call them, they will answer you on the spot.

It is very durable. Scientifically, I could tell you how it compare to CA.
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