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Old 09-13-2017, 05:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Simple non CA shiny finish

I have posted about this before, but I felt the need to stress the ease of this finishing method. It uses General Finishes Wood Turners Finish (WTF), 400/1000 grit sandpaper and a Beall Buffing System. There are no obnoxious fumes and eye watering vapors with this finish, it has almost no odor. WTF is a floor finishing compound that was modified to use in pen turning and it is cheap at around $13. It is very tough and will resist hand oils etc. If you try it notice how hard the small paper towels are after they dry.

Turn your wood blanks and sand to 400 or 800 grit
Clean with DNA and let dry
Apply 6-8 coats of WTF with 1,000 grit sanding between each coat. It takes mine about 15 minutes to dry between coats.
(I watch TV or work at the Gallery N Gifts and time is not critical)
Sand lightly after the last coat with 1,000 grit
Buff using all three buffs on the Beall buffing system

The result is an absolutely smooth to the touch finish that still retains the grain pores of the wood and a very nice permanent shine.

The photo shows the shine of two smooth wood and one open pore bocote seam rippers.
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Old 09-13-2017, 11:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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I've just started using WTF and started thinking WTF?? ;)
I really like it! - WTF!

First attempt was this little bud vase, I used 2000grit between coats, got about 6 to 8 coats and it is hard like CA without the mess, fumes, and glued fingers. If you keep the coats thin it dries in about 2 minutes between coats.

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Old 09-14-2017, 09:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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WOW!! These two pictures/techniques tell me I'm doing my Dr. Woodshop's finish wrong (it is the same as WTF). I started using it after figure out I have a CA sensitivity. Never could get it to come out as shiny as I wanted. Then tried the Solarez route but couldn't get it quite perfected. So I went back to CA with lots of fan and ventilation action.

However, seeing these posts I think I'll give the other a try again!! I definitely wasn't sanding between coats. But I also wasn't letting it dry at all. I was just running them back to back after letting each one get heated up really good.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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**sorry, double post**
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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If they are the same, try again. I'll stick to the general finishes product. I have lots of bottles of various products that DID NOT WORK imo. This is a keeper. I have 30-40 pens finished with it, numerous seam ripper, bottle stoppers and shave kits. It rocks as a respiratory system safe system. I still do CA for my premium pens or when the blank defects require filling with something clear or mixed with sanding dust.

My nose thanks me
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I am not sure, but I do not think they are the same. I hope some one can answer this. Separately, here's Ed's video on the WTF: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...C6&FORM=VRDGAR
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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If I recall from some old posts on here, the "Dr." makes his same stuff under the generic name as sort of a private label for Woodcraft/etc. But I could be wrong.
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I use and like the stuff Ed used in his video. I too use about seven coats, but usually not on the lathe. Sometimes it is nice to do some procedures away from the lathe. I managed two seam rippers and five pens "at work" at the Gallery N Gifts. Wait time usually depended on customer flow or phone calls. The pens look great even before buffing, but will be spectacular after the Beall treatment. My advice buy a Beall on lathe buff and love it.
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Keith, here is a great tutorial. It's time consuming, but if you follow it you should get the results you're after.
Doctors Wood Shop Pen Finish Tutorial

Doctors Wood Shop Pen Finish Tutorial
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Old 09-15-2017, 11:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Another I did last night using WTF


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