CREID
Member
What is Enduro?
Curt
Curt
Second best finish instead of CA ?
- Thread starter Stango
- Start date
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wouldentu2?
Member
Enduro is a urethane available in several size cans at rockler and woodcraft to name two places. You can dip it (Which I have done with success) or it can be applied with a rag on the lathe (Which I have not been able to be successful at). Look in the IAP library for info on how to do it.
Lee K
Member
odd question ... but can you apply a coat or two of CA and THEN dip it?
Would the enduro adhere to the CA coated pen?
wouldentu2?
Member
I cannot think of any reason to use CA and then dip Enduro. You usually use the Enduro to avoid using CA due to the fumes. With 2 coats of CA I'm 3 coats away from being done.
Enduro needs about 24 hours between coats.
Enduro needs about 24 hours between coats.
Bree
Member
I suppose an alternative depends on the wood. Some woods do well with one thing and some with another. When I get dense exotics I may use nothing but Carnauba wax. Because some of them don't really need anything more unless you insist on a mirror finish. Quite frankly some woods look better matte and natural than shining like mirrors.
I love Tung oil (Waterlox or my own concoction) and use it with many of the things I do including my CA pens. But I often use it with Carnauba wax over and Ren Wax. It's tough and doesn't show surface scratches like plastic has a tendency to do.
Another EZ one is DEFT High Gloss Lacquer... either the spray or dipping it. Takes longer but you get a nice finish. I think modern lacquers are a lot tougher than many would lead you to believe. At least the pens that I have lacquered have held up very well. Behlens makes a good lacquer for turning too.
I love Tung oil (Waterlox or my own concoction) and use it with many of the things I do including my CA pens. But I often use it with Carnauba wax over and Ren Wax. It's tough and doesn't show surface scratches like plastic has a tendency to do.
Another EZ one is DEFT High Gloss Lacquer... either the spray or dipping it. Takes longer but you get a nice finish. I think modern lacquers are a lot tougher than many would lead you to believe. At least the pens that I have lacquered have held up very well. Behlens makes a good lacquer for turning too.
Lee K
Member
I don't know. I have just dipped my first pen using high gloss poly and have one coat of vs on another barrel thinking about dipping the rest.
Mike Lindstrom
Member
I'm relatively new to turning, and maybe you guys are spending more time with the skew and less time with the abrasives than I am, but especially if you're turning wood, you really should be wearing a good respirator. Lots of woods people like to see often lead to dangerous allergies. And in general, lung exposure to exotic wood dust is bad long term. On top of that, the dust in the air over time can cause scratches in your eyes, degrading your vision. Regardless what finish you use, get a mask. It's easy enough to get cartridges for it that would take out the CA too. And really, whatever finish you use, you should be venting it outside. None of those things are good to breathe.
One thing to consider with alternative finishes is what wood you're using. A nice thing about CA, in my experience is that it cures over anything. Others often need a seal coat under them on oily woods, otherwise they never cure.
On the UV finishes, there is a company now marketing a UV cure polyesther to the luthiery community. I haven't tried it, but there are several people discussing it on some of the luthier forums. Their general consensus is it wipes on, self levels, cures quickly with the right light, and is the toughest finish available, even super thin. It is not cheap though. The starter kit for finishing guitars runs about $3000. I don't know if forum rules allow linking to other forums or commercial sites, but PM me and I can get you links to the discussion and the product.
Mike
One thing to consider with alternative finishes is what wood you're using. A nice thing about CA, in my experience is that it cures over anything. Others often need a seal coat under them on oily woods, otherwise they never cure.
On the UV finishes, there is a company now marketing a UV cure polyesther to the luthiery community. I haven't tried it, but there are several people discussing it on some of the luthier forums. Their general consensus is it wipes on, self levels, cures quickly with the right light, and is the toughest finish available, even super thin. It is not cheap though. The starter kit for finishing guitars runs about $3000. I don't know if forum rules allow linking to other forums or commercial sites, but PM me and I can get you links to the discussion and the product.
Mike
Oldmanwheeler
Member
Doctor Woodshop
The guy who developed Doctor Woodshop's products is a woodturner and a biochemist who resided to use his knowledge to come up with these products. I placed an order tonight and will let you know what I think about his products but from what I read it sounds like a quality product at a very fair price.
The guy who developed Doctor Woodshop's products is a woodturner and a biochemist who resided to use his knowledge to come up with these products. I placed an order tonight and will let you know what I think about his products but from what I read it sounds like a quality product at a very fair price.
dabeeler
Member
I've been using a combination of liquid finishing wax and deft brushing lacquer following these instructions http://www.woodturnerruss.com/FSOriginal5.html. The results are such that this has now become my favorite way to finish. I have used all three flavors of the brushing lacquer, satin, semi-gloss and gloss and prefer the results from the semi-gloss. Things I do a little different than the instructions are that I hand sand with 600 grit after wiping off the finishing wax, let the first coat of lacquer sit about 2 minutes instead of one and use 4 total coats of lacquer letting coats 2, 3 and 4 sit about one minute before wiping off. I found the bronze wool to be much better than steel wool to buff the blank between lacquer coats. I do not use the bronze wool after the last coat. Let blanks sit till next day and then take to the buffer as directed.
I know this may sound a bit unorthodox, but I have found using plastic polish of some woods makes a marvelous finish. It seems to work better on woods that have a higher natural oil/resin content. The polish (when used on high speed) produces a higher heat than regular wood finishes and helps bring out the natural oils/ resin. The result give the wood a finish that (in my eyes) is between a standard wood finish and a CA finish. Give it a try and let me know your thoughts. Chip