Richard Gibson
Member
I am making a small salt box from BOW. Any suggestions for what kind of food safe finish to use?
Salt. What finish??
- Thread starter Richard Gibson
- Start date
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mrcook4570
Member
All finishes are food safe after they have cured. But keep in mind that dry and cured are completely different. Many finishes may take a month or more to fully cure.
alamocdc
Member
I haven't tried this yet, but those that have swear by it. It is a fulling drying Walnut Oil that does not go rancid like most other Walnut Oil finishes can.
Wildman
Member
I am no longer sure once a particular finish cures it is food safe. Just read MSDS for any finish.
Nice read:
Food-Safe Finishes - Fine Woodworking Article
I am a big fan of no finish & mineral oil, (laxative) which needs frequent re-application as food safe finish. Do not use baby oil or industrial mineral oil.
All oil finishes will need re-application with use. All nut, seed, & vegetable oils whether drying, semi drying, non-drying can and will go rancid eventually. Polymerized oils may not, if use solvent to thin & speed up drying not food safe. Read MSDS for solvents.
Manufacturers do not always list harmful ingredients in MSDS. Government allows manufacturers to get away with food safe claims and not listing all ingredients.
Just google food safe wood finishes and see what green folks have to say!
Nice read:
Food-Safe Finishes - Fine Woodworking Article
I am a big fan of no finish & mineral oil, (laxative) which needs frequent re-application as food safe finish. Do not use baby oil or industrial mineral oil.
All oil finishes will need re-application with use. All nut, seed, & vegetable oils whether drying, semi drying, non-drying can and will go rancid eventually. Polymerized oils may not, if use solvent to thin & speed up drying not food safe. Read MSDS for solvents.
Manufacturers do not always list harmful ingredients in MSDS. Government allows manufacturers to get away with food safe claims and not listing all ingredients.
Just google food safe wood finishes and see what green folks have to say!
soundman
Member
There are a lot of things that are claimed to be "food safe". BUT the question is for what purpose.
The only things that can be relied upon to be completly food safe are things accepted as edible food products.
That comes down to 3 or 4 products.
Parifin wax, parafin oil and shelac are or have been all used as food additives or coatings.
The fourth is bees wax, but it is less usefull and people that have bee related allergies may have an issue.
Most of the epoxies and two part resins are entirely innert after curing and used in food containers, but there are practical issues.
For coating the insides of articles that have direct contact with dry or mildly moist food you have to go a long way to find better than shelac...best choice dewaxed white shelac.
It is easy to apply, penetrates and seals, protects the timber from the food and the food from the timber and has no taste and wont taint the contents.
Shelac has been used to coat tablets and sweets in the past and requires no addtiives or driers to work......dewaxed product is harder and more water resistant
I use shelac on the insides of all salt and peppermills.
to other food safe applications
Cutting boards, clean, white, parifin oil, is colourless, tasteless and odorless, can not and will not go rancid or provide nourishment for microbes, it is used in medicines in particular laxitives.....not much can touch it for use on cuting boards.
All of the vegitable and nut oils will, either go rancid, taint the food or provide nutriment for microbes or combinations of....there are no exceptions.
On drinking vessels, there are some products that work well but long term nothing is better than marine epoxy....but wash it very well before first use.
cheers
The only things that can be relied upon to be completly food safe are things accepted as edible food products.
That comes down to 3 or 4 products.
Parifin wax, parafin oil and shelac are or have been all used as food additives or coatings.
The fourth is bees wax, but it is less usefull and people that have bee related allergies may have an issue.
Most of the epoxies and two part resins are entirely innert after curing and used in food containers, but there are practical issues.
For coating the insides of articles that have direct contact with dry or mildly moist food you have to go a long way to find better than shelac...best choice dewaxed white shelac.
It is easy to apply, penetrates and seals, protects the timber from the food and the food from the timber and has no taste and wont taint the contents.
Shelac has been used to coat tablets and sweets in the past and requires no addtiives or driers to work......dewaxed product is harder and more water resistant
I use shelac on the insides of all salt and peppermills.
to other food safe applications
Cutting boards, clean, white, parifin oil, is colourless, tasteless and odorless, can not and will not go rancid or provide nourishment for microbes, it is used in medicines in particular laxitives.....not much can touch it for use on cuting boards.
All of the vegitable and nut oils will, either go rancid, taint the food or provide nutriment for microbes or combinations of....there are no exceptions.
On drinking vessels, there are some products that work well but long term nothing is better than marine epoxy....but wash it very well before first use.
cheers
scotirish
Member
I have made both salt and pepper boxes. I found that if I did not put a finish on the inside thw salt and pepper did not clump from moisture. The only thing as I can figure is the moisture went into the wood and not in the contents.
Ron
Ron
penmaker1967
Member
i use a poly called butcher block it comes from lowes and it is food safe. i think it is about 10.0 for a pint but it goes a long way.
Wildman
Member
Several years back make some salt & pepper shakers. Did not use any finish inside, and simple wiping varnish finish on outside.
Soundman here in USA, DNA made with poison so people will not drink the stuff. Woodworkers been using DNA and other alcohols to dissolve shellac flakes for a long time. So would check and see if there is a material safety data sheet MSDS or safety data sheet SDS for any alcohol want to mix with shellac.
There is a big difference between food safe contact, and food safe edible. Pharmaceutical manufactures do not use DNA & shellac to coat pills, tablets, and capsules. No doubt alcohol they use fit for human consumption.
Moonshiners' here often pour off 1st five gallons of homemade whiskey (ethanol) because stuff is poison.
Soundman here in USA, DNA made with poison so people will not drink the stuff. Woodworkers been using DNA and other alcohols to dissolve shellac flakes for a long time. So would check and see if there is a material safety data sheet MSDS or safety data sheet SDS for any alcohol want to mix with shellac.
There is a big difference between food safe contact, and food safe edible. Pharmaceutical manufactures do not use DNA & shellac to coat pills, tablets, and capsules. No doubt alcohol they use fit for human consumption.
Moonshiners' here often pour off 1st five gallons of homemade whiskey (ethanol) because stuff is poison.