Renaissance was vs. TSW

[RussFairfield]

I don't think that CA has been used as a pen finish long enough to call it the "Magic Finish". CA glue has been in general use as a pen finish for no more than 2 years that I know of. Is that long enough to know what effect our minger and body oils and moisture will have on the CA finish, or what will be the effect of oils in the wood?

There are a lot of qualifiers for type, purity, and age before using; but my experience with CA glues in general has been that they can get very brittle, start to shrink, and start turning into an amber color after a 3 to 5 years. That time is shorter with exposure to moisture and oil.

 

[JimGo]

Interesting. Thanks Russ!

 

[timdaleiden]

Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />About Ren wax having no smell,I don't know who they think they are kidding.
It smells just like NEVA DULL which is a brass cleaner and polish.

Eagle,

The ad simply said that no fragrance was "added". They then stated why.

 

[timdaleiden]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Eagle, I thought it was just me. A new turner asked me about the two products. I opened both for him and told him I preferred my fingers to smell like coconut rather than petroleum distillates when I was polishing. Neither has an odor (to me) after being used and buffed. Is one better? I don't know, I just like the results that I get with TSW. Now understand, my pens are not valuable works of art, so the risk in using a new product on them is minimal. Just curious, how many years has the use of CA as a finish been researched?

William,

If I chose my finishing products by how they smell, I would use Hut Crystal Coat.

Good question about CA. I almost never use it as a finish anymore. I am sticking with wood finishing products that have been around for a while, or at least have a reputation to protect. I think Enduro looks very promising, but for now I use Lacquer.

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by timdaleiden
<br />

Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />About Ren wax having no smell,I don't know who they think they are kidding.
It smells just like NEVA DULL which is a brass cleaner and polish.

Eagle,

The ad simply said that no fragrance was "added". They then stated why.

The particualar add I read ALSO says it does not smell like a polish.
Since there are so many sticklers for corroboration around here I got this right off the suppliers site.
"
A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY... AND LASTS A LONG TIME
Excellent spread and indefinite shelf life make RENAISSANCE WAX economical and convenient, even for very large objects and infrequent use. A small dab goes a long way, unlike most waxes that need generous application. Use a minimal amount of RENAISSANCE WAX , rub lightly, and buff if a gloss is desired. The long-lasting preservation reduces the need for frequent maintenance. Airtight container keeps wax in perfect condition; always spreadable, no caking or drying out; indefinite shelf life; no "polish smell;" no added fragrance to endanger material."

hence my original remark.It Smells like Neva dull which is a brass cleaner polish.
The way I read it they are not inferring that a fragrance alters the product they are just saying it doesn't smell like a polish.

 

[wdcav1952]

Originally posted by timdaleiden
<br />

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Eagle, I thought it was just me. A new turner asked me about the two products. I opened both for him and told him I preferred my fingers to smell like coconut rather than petroleum distillates when I was polishing. Neither has an odor (to me) after being used and buffed. Is one better? I don't know, I just like the results that I get with TSW. Now understand, my pens are not valuable works of art, so the risk in using a new product on them is minimal. Just curious, how many years has the use of CA as a finish been researched?

William,

If I chose my finishing products by how they smell, I would use Hut Crystal Coat.

Good question about CA. I almost never use it as a finish anymore. I am sticking with wood finishing products that have been around for a while, or at least have a reputation to protect. I think Enduro looks very promising, but for now I use Lacquer.


Tim,

My question about CA was motivated by curiosity alone. I have tried to be good ever since Jeff gave himself death sentence authority! [] [}] [] Thanks to Russ for his insight as to the longevity of CA. Which lacquer to you use, Tim? Also, I went totally brain dead. What is the name of the really high-end lacquer that Russ has mentioned in the past? It is the one that someone, Anthony I think, mentioned that it is prone to setting in the container.

 

[DCBluesman]

I know your question was not directed to me, William, but the product mentioned previously by Russ is Waterlox, which has been around since the 1930's. In my (never humble) opinion, it is a remarkable finish. It's primary ingredient is tung oil which has been used as a finish since the 14th century. Waterlox is a slow build product which is easy to apply, but takes a long time to successfully complete. If time were no object, it would be my finish of choice.

 

[Thumbs]

Yeah? Well, I'll expand my tests to include any and all available finishing products! I am still waiting for those "FREE" samples, however!

 

[DCBluesman]

Originally posted by Thumbs
<br />Yeah? Well, I'll expand my tests to include any and all available finishing products! I am still waiting for those "FREE" samples, however!

Go to William's and use his! You can't get much more "FREE" than that! []

 

[timdaleiden]

Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />

Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />About Ren wax having no smell,I don't know who they think they are kidding.
It smells just like NEVA DULL which is a brass cleaner and polish.

no "polish smell;"
hence my original remark.It Smells like Neva dull which is a brass cleaner polish.
The way I read it they are not inferring that a fragrance alters the product they are just saying it doesn't smell like a polish.

Having "no smell", as you orginally stated, is a lot different than having "no polish smell". If you would have been clearer about it originally, I would not have posted anything about it.

As far as it smelling like <b>Neva Dull</b>, I can find no such product. Did you mean <b>Never Dull</b>?????

Maybe you should e-mail them and tell them you found a polish that smells like Ren Wax. Maybe they would change their product description. I have seen that happen before.

 

[timdaleiden]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
[brTim,

My question about CA was motivated by curiosity alone. I have tried to be good ever since Jeff gave himself death sentence authority! [] [}] [] Thanks to Russ for his insight as to the longevity of CA. Which lacquer to you use, Tim? Also, I went totally brain dead. What is the name of the really high-end lacquer that Russ has mentioned in the past? It is the one that someone, Anthony I think, mentioned that it is prone to setting in the container.

William,

Right now I am using Deft Spray. I have used the (brush on) liquid, as well as Watco Spray and liquid. Deft has a quick dry time, but it does take several weeks to completely cure. It can be safely handled within hours. I feel comfortable shipping them after a few days. I wasn't happy with the Watco gloss, as it just wasn't shiny enough for me. I am considering a few of the water borne finishes, but for now this works for me.

 

[wdcav1952]

Tim and Lou,

Thanks for the answers. Waterlox was the name my OTD (Old Timers' Disease) prevented me from remembering. I tried Deft spray, but I never seem to get a smooth finish with sprays. I either go too light and get a pebble grain finish, or too heavy and get runs. Tim, do you buff at all after using Deft? When I tried it (dip, not spray) the finish was destroyed by buffing. I guess I didn't let it harden enough. Anyway, I'll stay with Enduro for now, and plan to use Waterlox for special projects.

BTW, Lou, don't give Bob (Thumbs) any ideas. He does well on his own! Just kidding Bob, anything I may have shared with you, you and your much better half have more than repaid.

 

[timdaleiden]

William,

If you have mastered the Enduro, you might just want to stick with it for a while. It is designed as a wood finish. My understanding is that it is typically used to finish bar tops. This should provide the user with many years of use before it needs any buffing, or repair.

To answer your question, yes; I do sometimes buff the Deft. It has to be done very carefully. Normally, the final coat is left as is. Humidity and some other factors make the last coat hard to get perfect. If it isn't perfect, I sand and try again. I have found that my sanding steps are better done off the lathe.

I have never dipped because I have no idea how I can keep dust and debris out of the mix.

 

[wdcav1952]

Mastered Enduro? I'm not sure about that, but my finishes are getting better as I work with it. Don't tell Wayne, but I use old T shirt material instead of paper towel. From the beginning, I have had better luck with the T shirt material, and use it for BLO, CA, Enduro, and whatever else. Thanks for the advice, I likely will leave the Deft on the shelf WRT pen finishing. I still want to play with Waterlox, maybe when I get some Irish bog oak to use.

 

[PenWorks]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br /> Don't tell Wayne,

I allready did [}] Your in deep DOOO DOOO now []
How do you feel using the Waterlox? As to a lasting finish? I like using it, I put about 3 coats on and then do a light buff. Gives a nice natural look.

 

[wdcav1952]

Anthony,
Haven't used the Waterlox yet, still waiting for something really special before spending the money for Waterlox.

 

[DCBluesman]

I've used Waterlox on a couple of personal-use pens, Tony. I did 8 coats and still am not sure I shouldn't have done more. Buffed on the 3rd wheel of the Beall (nothing on the wheel). I took it to a high-gloss, then used MM12000 to take it back to satin. These two look like diamonds.

 

[HeatherA]

" Airtight container keeps wax in perfect condition; always spreadable, no caking or drying out; indefinite shelf life."

Is there anything to do to fix renaissance wax if you did leave the lid off? Hypothetically speaking of coarse.[]

Heather

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by HeatherA
<br />" Airtight container keeps wax in perfect condition; always spreadable, no caking or drying out; indefinite shelf life."

Is there anything to do to fix renaissance wax if you did leave the lid off? Hypothetically speaking of coarse.[]

Heather

How long did you leave the lid off?
HAve you tried scraping off a little of the top layer?
If you think it is a total loss, experimentation may be in order.
Lou is the resident"chemist"( he won't admit to being a chemist but when I have asked him questions such as this his answers have been on the mark)
Any way getting back to your question.
The first time I opened a container of Ren"wax" I noted a distinct petrolium smell.
I would try a drop or two of mineral spirits,but that's just me.
I use butchers wax and the two smell similar.
I imagine there will probably be a lot of cautionary comments regarding my remark but I doubt very seriously there would be any adverse reactions such as blowing up your shop.
(procede at your own risk.)
Or you could just throw it out.[]

 

[RussFairfield]

Renaissance Wax should smell like petroleum. It comes by it naturally. It is a microcrystalline wax, and that is found in either oil bearing sands or the sludge in the bottom of crude oil storage tanks. I have no idea which one is the source for Ren Wax, but either way, it is going to smell like what it is.

 

[RussFairfield]

A suggestion on using Waterlox...

Soak the pen barrels in a container of the Waterlox for several hours to over night. Then remove them, and let them drip dry for a week. Buff with the Tripoli and White Diamond on Bealle or similar wheels, and you are done.

I use a gun cleaning brush to remove the finish from the inside of the tubes.

 

[PenWorks]

Thanks Russ, that sounds easy enough. The only down side I have to using Waterlox, is that I have a hard time keeping it from gelling. I have tried the spray in the can as well.

 

[DCBluesman]

Thanks for the tip, Russ! And Tony, I transferred my Waterlox (and all of my other finishing supplies) to 4 ounce squeeze bottles. For the ones I won't be using right away, I cover them with plastic wrap and screw on the cap. So far I've had no problems with gelling. BTW, I also put my homemade shellac and friction polish in these small containers.

 

[alamocdc]

I know this is off the original topic, but since someone brought up the use of Waterlox, has any one tried other typical wood finishes on wood pens? What I'm really thinking of is one of my favorite finishes... a three part mixture of BLO, Tung Oil and Polyurethane. The only problem with this type of finish is it takes 4 to 10 coats, depending on the wood, and 24 hours between coats to get the kind of finish I like. Thus far I haven't had the patience to try it on a pen.

 

[HeatherA]

I left it open for a couple of days I quess. It shrunk to about half it's original size. Good thing it was the tiny container.

Heather

 

[wdcav1952]

Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />A suggestion on using Waterlox...

Soak the pen barrels in a container of the Waterlox for several hours to over night. Then remove them, and let them drip dry for a week. Buff with the Tripoli and White Diamond on Bealle or similar wheels, and you are done.

I use a gun cleaning brush to remove the finish from the inside of the tubes.

As always great ideas, Russ. Have you ever considered adopting a 52 yr old apprentice? You spoke of using a gun cleaning brush to clean the inside of the tubes. Has anyone come up with a list of the appropriate caliber or gauge brush to use on various kits?

 

[Fred in NC]

I wonder if putting a bolt through the barrel, and nut in the other end, will work. This will give weight, and keep the finish from the inside of the tube.

 

[JimGo]

That's an interesting idea, Fred. BTW, LOVE the lighthouse pen pic!