Question on finishing out clear polyester resin

[Joe Burns]

Have a question on finishing out clear polyester resin. I am presently turning one of the great polyester resin braid blanks from KnB. I have the blank turned down almost to the bushings. To the point that if it was wood I would start sanding and the finishing process.

This is the first time turning one of these blanks. What would be the best process or steps to finish the blank out. I have all new fresh micromesh to 12000. Hut's plastic polish and a two wheel buffing system for the lathe.

Not sure if I should dry sand with 220 or 400 first before moving to micromesh. I also have Abralom 500,1000,2000, and 4000 pads.

Any turners out there that have turned clear polyester resin before? If so what process or steps do you use?

Joe

 

[KnB Polymers]

Hey Joe,
We just got home a little bit ago and Brian went straight to his shop to fill a resin order. When he gets back in, he will respond to this. We weren't ignoring you, we were trimming a house! :biggrin:
Kathy

 

[Ruby pen turning]

Sorry so late responding. The ends should be square so don't try and square them anymore or you will cause some fogging on the ends. All you need to do is wet sand them like you would any acrylic or PR or plastic blank through the gradually finer papers or pads, then polish.
On a side note, if you do not have the 9 different colored micromesh pads, you should get some. They are kinda expensive but they work great.

 

[Joe Burns]

Kathy, Brian,

Dont apologize. With half the state without power I figured you would be off line a few days. Figured I'd post the question here on the forum for the masters and wizards that frequent here.

Yep, the ends looked to be dead on square and clean. Its an awesome blank and turned like butter. Wasn't sure if I needed to dry sand first before hitting with MM. I have a complete set of brand new micro mesh that I'll hit it with.

I keep eying the clay blanks you have, but cant spend any more money until I get some pens sold. I appreciate it.

Joe

 

[soundman]

I find with acrillic blanks, clear or otherwise I get results using quite coarse paper dry to start with either to flatten the surface or as a guage process...particularly with paralell flat sided pieces

I get as close as I can with a very sharp largish gouge and straight ended ( not curved)skew.

then I use a piece of dry paper on the outside of a piece of 2 inch aluminium angle, depending on how good the finish is off the tools and how co operative the blank is, it may be 120, 180 or 240 gritt.
I do so carefully and lightly.
Some blanks just seem to chatter and catch no matter what you do, others cut realy well ....if I have a chatter problem I use the heavier gritts, the better the finish off the tool the finer the gritt I use.

this will show up any big lumps and bumps, as you will see a scratch pattern and waste on the sandpaper that will tell you where the high spots are.

I can then mow them down with a super sharp straight ended skew and try with the paper again.

when I have an even scratch pattern, I take this as I have a pretty flat and paraell cylinder...I then mow the fuzz down with the skew again, this removes most of the scratch and you can move up the gritts without the angle.

I generally start wet sanding at 320 working thru to 1200 then onto compound on a well worn sock..

hope this helps.

cheers