PSI Gloss Sealer Comments

[shastastan]

I just wrote a short review of this product on the PSI website. As someone said, this makes a better finish than the Super Gloss. Mine turned to jelly after 6 months. If I was in the pen turning business, I'm sure that would not have happened because I would have used it up. Given the amount and frequency of pens that I do, I'm sure I could get by with half the amount they sell.

In the reviews of the Super Gloss product, one person said they didn't like the Super Gloss and that you can make your own finish using 50-50 Deft and lacquer thinner. Since I have both on hand, I decided to give it a try. I only mixed up less than an oz and the bottle still looks full. I am really pleased with the result, too. It has more of a gloss than semi-gloss, but not really glossy like plastic. You can see the wood grain and character. Of course, it probably does not have much pore filling since the solution is so thin. I applied it like WTF, but it only took half the time and effort. I'm going to try it on a few more pens to see if I'm sold on it. Just be aware that the fumes from Deft are really intense coming out of the can. After I mixed it up, I put all the stuff outside and the lid on the bottle. If you have Deft and lacquer thinner on hand, you can't beat the price.

 

[shastastan]

Okay. I can see why some might not be interested in this since many have already chosen their finish of choice. I'm still looking and trying.

I thought that I really liked WTF. I was following the suggested method of applying 7 coats, sanding with 600 grit, and they another 7 coats. This method works but takes more time. However, you do get a good and durable finish with it.

I'm pretty sure that the 50-50 mix gives a durable finish with just 4 coats. As I said. this finish doesn't fill the pores though. In another thread I asked about salvaging old pens. I'm sure that I used Mylands on them and the finish has really dulled which I will salvage.

I have used deft on many furniture pieces and it is durable and tough. Watch out for the fumes though!

 

[triw51]

Capt. Eddie uses a 50/50 solution of deft sanding sealer and lacquer thinner as a base for his finishes and gets good results. I made up a batch and like the results as well.

 

[shastastan]

Capt. Eddie uses a 50/50 solution of deft sanding sealer and lacquer thinner as a base for his finishes and gets good results. I made up a batch and like the results as well.

Thanks. I had not seen that one. I'll pop over there and take a look. I used Deft gloss.

My wife is a retired teacher from Cottonwood.......California.

Stan

 

[shastastan]

I checked Capn Eddie's video. I'm going to get some Deft sanding sealer and see how it works with the Deft gloss finish. Thanks for the tip.

 

[KenV]

Stan -- "Sanding Sealer" is a dual definition term. Commercial products labeled that normally have stearates added to make the sanding easier in commercial applications.

The non-professional finishing term is commonly the old-fashioned term if a thinned finish used as first coats (and sometimes more) to seal the wood surface and state to build a finish on the surface. Thinned lacquer or thinned shellac are commonly used in this context and without the stearates.

Check what you buy because the stearates help with sanding and interfere with the bonding of the finish layer added. Several layers of commercial products labeled as sanding sealer have earned a reputation for failed finishes.

I like the thinned lacquer for prep and sealing the wood -- and usually move to dipped or spray for following coats. The high solvent does allow it to better work with brush or rub on applications without lines or other marks.

 

[shastastan]

Stan -- "Sanding Sealer" is a dual definition term. Commercial products labeled that normally have stearates added to make the sanding easier in commercial applications.

The non-professional finishing term is commonly the old-fashioned term if a thinned finish used as first coats (and sometimes more) to seal the wood surface and state to build a finish on the surface. Thinned lacquer or thinned shellac are commonly used in this context and without the stearates.

Check what you buy because the stearates help with sanding and interfere with the bonding of the finish layer added. Several layers of commercial products labeled as sanding sealer have earned a reputation for failed finishes.

I like the thinned lacquer for prep and sealing the wood -- and usually move to dipped or spray for following coats. The high solvent does allow it to better work with brush or rub on applications without lines or other marks.

Thanks Ken. I think you may have saved me from messing a pen up and having to do it over or toss it. I've just been using the 50-50 lacquer mix. What I do is apply a coat with the lathe off and with the lathe on wait a minute or so and then buff with a soft cloth. I then just hit very lightly with the finish app and set the timer again. So far, I just do this 4 times and I'm done. It's just the level of shiny that I like and I'm confident that it's a durable finish.

I've been wondering if I could do a shellac/lacquer mix for a base coat and then proceed with the lacquer/Deft finish?

 

[monophoto]

I've been wondering if I could do a shellac/lacquer mix for a base coat and then proceed with the lacquer/Deft finish?

Why bother - if you are using aa 50:50 lacquer/thinner mix as a sealer, a shellac sealer would provide any additional value.

EXCEPT - if you are working with a very oily wood, a shellac sealer might be a better barrier coat under the lacquer topcoat.

 

[shastastan]

I've been wondering if I could do a shellac/lacquer mix for a base coat and then proceed with the lacquer/Deft finish?

Why bother - if you are using aa 50:50 lacquer/thinner mix as a sealer, a shellac sealer would provide any additional value.

EXCEPT - if you are working with a very oily wood, a shellac sealer might be a better barrier coat under the lacquer topcoat.

Thanks for that info.