As promised , my finishing technique

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dougle40

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First off let me pass on some advise that was given to me by an instructor that I took a pen making course from through "Lee Valley Tools" .
He said " Your finish will only be as good as your sanding "</u> and I've adhered to that princable 100% .

After I'm satisfied with the turning , I start my sanding with 180 grit wet-dry sandpaper and work through the grades (180-220-320-400-600-800-1000-1200-1500) making sure that all the sanding marks from the previous paper are removed before I proceed to the next (400 grit paper won't remove 180 grit marks) . On extermely hard woods I've even gone to "Crocus Cloth" as the final sanding .

Then I use a product from Lee Valley called "Turners Polish" , it's a one step liquid friction polish that is applied while the lathe is turning and I apply it with a piece of paper toweling and continue to polish until I build up a little heat , at that time the finish becomes very highly polished (it's somewhat like a "French Polish" for the lathe) then finally I apply a coat of paste wax just to protect the finish .

I've tried just about all the various different polishes (everything from liquid to stick) out there and I don't feel that there is anything better or easier to use than Turners Polish .

I've been using one of my "prototypes" now for over 5 years and have never had to refinish or rebuff it at all and it still looks as good as the day I made it .

I hope this helps someone out with their finishing .
 
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melogic

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Doug,
This is very nice. What type of paste wax do you use after the Turners Polish? Is it just one coat like the turners polish? Thanks for sharing this info.
 

dougle40

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I use good old Johnsons Paste Wax , you know the floor wax . I apply it the same way as the polish , while the lathe is turning then wait a few minutes until it clouds over then buff it with an old cotton sock ! 1 coat seems to be plenty .
 

Scott

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Hi Doug!

Now that wasn't so bad, was it? ;-)

I think your sanding regimine is a big part of why you're getting the good results you are! Do you stop the lathe in between grits and sand lengthwise? I find that helps remove those circular lines quicker, and actually speeds up the process overall.

One more question - do you put on more than one coat of the Turners Polish? I used to apply three coats of the friction polish I used (Crystal Coat), and I felt that the extra coats added more "depth" to the finish.

Thanks for sharing!

Scott.
 

dougle40

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Scott,

As for stopping the lathe - yes I do , but just to check the scratches from previous papers and no I don't sand lengthwise but instead I keep the paper moving all the while I'm sanding , that way you don't get the cicular marks . I cut all my sandpaper into 2" strips and then fold them lengthwise then stack them according to grits . When I'm finished with one grit , it goes on the top and the next grit is ready to go . Also folding gives you 2 surfaces to sand with , the folded part gives you something to get into the tight areas and the unfolded edges allow you to follow curves without marring the curved surfaces .

As for the Turners Polish , I've found that if I've put enough on the paper towelling , I get plenty of saturation into the wood and a second coat isn't necessary . Once you've built up enough heat through friction , the finish works it's way right down into the wood and gives plenty of depth , when I have applied a second coat there really doesn't seem to be much of a change in appearence at all .

Hope this helps .
 

Tropical

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Hi Doug,
I am curious as to who your pen turning instructor was at Lee Valley. I took a pen turning course there as well! Also, thank you for sharing your finishing technique. I am still trying to develop one. Currently I use Mylands friction polish and the results seem good but I haven't been turning long enough to test its durability. When I read posts about people dipping their pens and then windmilling them or using CA I realized that I must be doing the lazy man finishing method [:eek:)].
 

dougle40

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Tropical ,
It was so long ago now that I don't remember the instructor's name but it was at the London store .
You'll have to try Lee Valley's Turners Polish it's great stuff . As for the lazy mans way , not so , the best finish you can get on your pens , no matter what way you get there , is the best way to go .

I've heard of people dipping their pens but I wouldn't even contemplate something like that when you can get a finish that's just as good and maybe even better by some other way .
 

Tropical

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Thanks Doug. I took my course at the Toronto East Store. By the way, I don't have access to the wax you mention nor the Turner's Polish (it can't be shipped by air to South America) but will get some next summer when I go up to Toronto. In the meantime, I have Myland's Friction Polish and a Minwax compound. Do you think I can put the Minwax after the polish. So far, I have only been using the friction polish and nothing after. Thanks.
 

Fred in NC

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The Lee Valley site:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=20105&category=1,190,42942

states that the product is made in the U.S. but available in Canada only.

That makes me think that it is sold in the US under a different label. It is lacquer based. Any ideas what it might be?
 

Fred in NC

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Link to a very informative article in Russ Fairfield's shop notes:

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish10.shtml

From which I quote:

"A lacquer based friction polish can be made from equal parts of Deft gloss lacquer, lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil."

Worth a try!
 

dougle40

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Fred ,

You're right about the "Turners Polish" being produced in the US . I have an inquiry in to Lee Valley as we speak and when I get an answer as to the name of the polish in the US , I'll post it here . I've already gotten the name from them once but have misplaced it .
 

dougle40

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As promised I've contacted Lee Valley Tools and they sent me the following link to Turners Polish in the US , it's called "Behlen Master Woodturners Finish" and it sells for $16.95 per pint .

http://www.allsuperstore.com/woodcraft/behlen-woodturners-finish.html
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=3238&gift=False&mscssid=72DF9EAE34EA41099CCAF8AE643A64FC

Hope this helps .
 

melogic

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Thanks Doug. I've picked up this very bottle several times at Wood Craft and wondered how it would work. I've just placed an order from Wood Craft and it is on the way to my house.
 

dougle40

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Mark ,
The instructions on the bottle say to apply it at a slow speed but I've had better success applying it at my regular turning speed (1530 rpm). Good luck with it and I'm sure that you'll be more than satisfied with the results . Let me know what you think about it .
 
G

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Over the weekend my wife and I were at the Christmas Crafts show in Columbia S.C.
I had the opportunity to speak with a few pen and bowl turners.
One of the more successful pen turners was using this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PSI&Product_Code=PKFRICT2&Category_Code=FINP
 

dougle40

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Tom ,
I just let the finish set until it's no longer sticky to the touch and if you've polished it enough it only takes about 2 minutes to get to that stage then apply the wax and let it cloud over with the lathe turning , about another minute , then buff it out .
 

C_Ludwigsen

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Originally posted by dougle40
<br />As promised I've contacted Lee Valley Tools and they sent me the following link to Turners Polish in the US , it's called "Behlen Master Woodturners Finish" and it sells for $16.95 per pint .

http://www.allsuperstore.com/woodcraft/behlen-woodturners-finish.html
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=3238&gift=False&mscssid=72DF9EAE34EA41099CCAF8AE643A64FC

Hope this helps .

Man!!! I have this on my shelf at home. I've used it on bowls. I was never sure how it would wear for a pen so never tried it. Guess I had better do it.
 

tomwojeck

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Originally posted by dougle40
<br />Tom ,
I just let the finish set until it's no longer sticky to the touch and if you've polished it enough it only takes about 2 minutes to get to that stage then apply the wax and let it cloud over with the lathe turning , about another minute , then buff it out .
All,

Attached is a Classic American Rollerball that I made from Birdseye maple and used Doug's technique to finish. It turned out really nice.

20041123202420_birdseye0002.jpg
<br />
 
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