Problems with Olivewood!?

[Davefarr]

I'm a newcomer and would welcome some advice on finishing Olivewood. So far, for most of my pens I've been using Danish oil followed by a high concentration Shellac friction polish. This gives me the finish I want on most woods except Olivewood. It looks fantastic to start with but then after a few days the finish goes dull and dark grey stains appear. I tried linseed oil + CA for the first time last night on Tasmanian figured Blackbean with great results but what finish can I use on Olivewood which is heavily beaded (e.g. on key rings) which will solve my problem.

Any advice or help appreciated.

Dave.

 

[tim self]

The ONLY thing I use is CA or CA/BLO. On olive wood (or cocobolo) I do spray with accelerator before application to remove oil. Couple of coats of thin CA only to seal and then CA/BLO. I know this may be a little difficult on beaded work but it can be done with thin application so as not to build up in the groves. Just my way, I've been wrong before.........LOML says it was just the other day.

 

[leehljp]

Try wiping with Acetone to clean the oil off and then try your finishes. Being heavily beaded, I would try lacquer or many coats of thinned poly after using a sanding sealer.

I am one to try different things for different problems, so these are just my ideas. I don't know how well this will work for you.

 

[Skye]

Like Hank said, I'd wipe it with something to remove the surface oil first.

I'm not sure about long term finishes on BOW pens, I've done a few and the couple I kept have all had the finish fade on them. They didnt chip or anything, it was almost like the CA just naturally wore off it, but at an astonishing rate. I also noticed the wood continue to change colors under the CA.

With it being such an oily, smooth, healthy feeling wood, I'm tempted to start leaving them unfinished. It's not often you come across a wood that, when you touch it, you feel like you're touching something that's almost still living.