Problems with CA finish on Red Mallee Burl

[Vincent]

Hi everyone,

This is the first time I've had such trouble with CA finishing. I sanded down to 12000 micromesh, then put 5 layers of CA. I start sanding the CA starting with 4000 micromesh, but I'm down to the wood by the time I get to 6000 micromesh. I repeated the same thing on the other half of the pen blank with the same results. Any suggestions.

Vincent

 

[DCBluesman]

Sounds like you are sanding too aggressively, Vincent. By the time you get to MM4000 you should spend no more than about 15 seconds at each successive grit.

 

[Fleabit]

I agree with Blue. Sounds like over sanding. You might not be putting enough CA on too. I had that happen the other day. Was being too stingy with the CA and it was not taking worh a darn.

 

[jdavis]

I second the oversanding. This is a common problem I have with my students. We sand forever on our large furniture projects and they cann't understand why they oversand pens. Back off of the sanding and don't be stingy with the CA.

 

[wayneis]

Ah Guys, he's starting sanding the ca with 4000 so if thats the case he is really oversanding. It sounds as though you have either a problem with way to little ca or the ca itself is spoiled. How long have you had that ca.

Wayne

 

[leehljp]

Thanks for the input on this subject. I have been having a similar problem caused by my background in woodworking. I need to bring the sanding down to "Touch N Go".

I have finished a few pens with a great finish (for me) but I mess up as many as I get right. There seems to be a fine line between just the right amount of CA and too much, which then requires aggressive sanding to smooth out.

Wayne, Being here in Japan, I do not have access to the CAs that are available in the States, but we have more than I care to read. The problem is that I don't know what directly relates to what you guys use. There are two or three very liquid kinds, a couple of low viscosity kinds (like motor oil) and a couple of jelly types. Trying to figure out which does what on pens is a pain. Changing brands with the supposedly same viscosity still produces different results. Although I can read Japanese some, even my Japanese friends can't tell me the difference in lay terms.

I am experimenting. Also I can't get CA from the States via airmail.

I am thinking about trying Eagle's acetone and desolved acrylic (I think it is his) for finishing.

QUESTION: How different is a CA finish on stabilized vs unstabilized blanks? Is it an assumption that CA finish is done on "stabilized" blanks?

 

[wayneis]

You don't have to use a CA finish to have a good lasting finish. I never use CA any more, I started using a comercial polyurthane several months ago and have been getting actually better results than I did with CA. If you do a search you will find a piece that I did on the product that I use called "Enduro" in where I wrote where to purchase the product and how to use it with great result. Currently there are several of use that use Enduro now and I believe that we all are enjoying getting away from CA fumes and the problem of getting consistant results. Enduro is a water based poly as is the sanding sealer that is used before the application of the Enduro.

I do think that if you are putting on five coats of CA and then starting to sand with 4000 grit micro mesh then something is wrong with the CA or you are using super light coats if you are snading down to the wood with only the 4000 grit. Now if you are in fact starting with 400, not 4000 like you stated then you should actually skip several grits and start with either 2400 or 3200. My two cents.

Wayne.

 

[Gregory Huey]

I am going to agree with above. I think the CA coats are to light. Also what type are you using thin, med thick, heavy?

 

[Vincent]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the help. I'm using medium CA. I'm only sanding for 20 seconds or so starting with 4000 micromesh, so it's pretty likely the layers aren't thick enough. I'll try again.

Vincent