Polymerized Oil Friction Polish

[donstephan]

A Bob Flexner article in the Nov 2016 Popular Woodworking (pages 62-3) suggested that Tru-Oil and Southerland Welles Polymerized Tung Oil could each be used as a friction polish on pens. Mr. Flexner experimented with each and thought Tru-Oil produced a better build and higher gloss more quickly of the two products, and that both would offer a more durable finish than traditional shellac-based friction polish.

Anyone have any experience with either of these as a friction pen finish?

 

[mark james]

A Bob Flexner article in the Nov 2016 Popular Woodworking (pages 62-3) suggested that Tru-Oil and Southerland Welles Polymerized Tung Oil could each be used as a friction polish on pens. Mr. Flexner experimented with each and thought Tru-Oil produced a better build and higher gloss more quickly of the two products, and that both would offer a more durable finish than traditional shellac-based friction polish.

Anyone have any experience with either of these as a friction pen finish?

For your question - "No." But I am curious what they were comparing them against: "traditional shellac-based friction polish." Which ones?

 

[donstephan]

Mark

I think you've raised an interesting question, and I'd be very interested in a discussion on the relative durability and build of different shellac-based friction polishes, commercial and shop-mixed. My immediate interest though is any experience from forum members applying either of these products as if they were a friction polish.

 

[KenV]

Don, google "stand oil" for a historical perspective.

I have used "Tried and True" brand with Shaker style work including stools and chairs.

Thinned with mineral spirits the Tried and True wax-oil mixture gives a light honey color applied as a friction polish.

Tried and True also works with CA as an oil-CA finish. It gives more of a honey tone than walnut bowl oil, but works nicely.

Polymerized oils avoid the long term blacking that happens with rubbing BLO on items.

 

[mmayo]

I too kinda like Tru-Oil and would like to make it work for pens. It gives a very high shine that is far brighter than BLO/CA or any of the other non-CA finishes. I will caution that time is needed to use Tru-Oil since it takes time to dry. I usually try three coats of Tru-Oil after six rounds of BLO/CA? If I have left the project wet with this finish overnight it was hard and very shiny and tough. People use Tru-Oil on gunstocks and have forever with good results. Yes, pen use is far more active than gun stock use, but my rifle stock looks great and it is ancient.

There is hope for another non-CA finish here.

If I develop some new patience, it may be a great idea.

 

[dogcatcher]

For oils like Tru-Oil a good guide is Frank Whiton's "Classic Gunstock Finish". A Google will lead you to it. His method is real time consuming, I use my version on custom ordered game calls, those buyers are will to spend the money for the time I spend on the finish. I also use the same process on custom gunstocks

So far I haven't found a pen buyer that is willing to "pay" for that kind of time.

 

[Wildman]

I did not read the article and without trying either product would choose Tru-oil over Well polymerized Tung oil just looking at product MSDS's. Also don't want to pay $26.82 for a pint or $44.13 per quart for the stuff no idea on shipping.

http://sutherlandwelles.com/pdf/MDS/PTO/MSDSPTOHIGH2016.pdf

See where can buy Tru-Oil at Walmart; if not in store there is free shipping. Most gun shops sell small bottles under $20. Product degrade once open make me want to buy less versus more!

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/geta...-8767-3cc1e87db4b4/Tru-Oil®-Stock-Finish.aspx

Are these products more durable than most friction shellac products? Perhaps, really don't think either Tru-oil or Wells polymerized Tung oil as a friction finish they are more of a wipe on and allow to dry product. Probably have to wait longer to apply additional coats.

Still Tru-oil a great finishing product worth trying.