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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 03-15-2010, 07:18 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glass Scratcher View Post
You use BLO on plastics?
Not on plastics, just on wood. I use plastic polish as the last step in my CA finish for woods... I generally don't put a finish over plastic except Ren wax.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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I use Brasso after MMing and then a final go with Turtle Wax Ice.
Leaves it super smooth and shiny!!!

Andrew
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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For all of those who use paper towels for polishing plastics and finishes, I would suggest switching to new cotton flannel. The few grit particles that are left over from the manufacturing process of the paper toweling are larger than the grit particles in the polish. There aren't many particles in a good quality paper, but it only takes one of them to leave that unexplained scratch in the finish.

I said new flannel, because any detergent residual from washing can scratch the surface; and drying will harden the ends of the cotton fibers, and that too can scratch the surface.
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Thanks Russ for the info.
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:09 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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CA finish, wet MM to 12000, Novus 2, then Meguire's Plastic Windshield Polish. The cheapest place I have found to buy both the Novus ($5.95) and the Meguire's ($6.95) is at the local motorcycle shop.
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entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem. The popular interpretation of this principle is that the simplest explanation is usually the correct one. -Occam's Razor
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:16 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussFairfield View Post
For all of those who use paper towels for polishing plastics and finishes, I would suggest switching to new cotton flannel. The few grit particles that are left over from the manufacturing process of the paper toweling are larger than the grit particles in the polish. There aren't many particles in a good quality paper, but it only takes one of them to leave that unexplained scratch in the finish.

I said new flannel, because any detergent residual from washing can scratch the surface; and drying will harden the ends of the cotton fibers, and that too can scratch the surface.

So THAT explains why I keep seeing minor scratches...thanks Russ!!
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:28 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Good tip, Thanks Russ!
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entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem. The popular interpretation of this principle is that the simplest explanation is usually the correct one. -Occam's Razor
Common sense isn't always such a common thing.
If it ain't broke.......then a little duct tape won't hurt it!
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Texatdurango View Post
Grade AAA powdered elk horn mixed at 5:1 with parrifin cut with 20% DNA and 8% linseed oil by volume (not by weight) then sifted through 600TC Egyptian cotton cloth. I store the mixture in quart jars sealed with Ball #36 rubber sealed lids (the blue rubber works best). Apply with flannel cloth while lathe is turning at exactly 2250 rpm (any faster and the compound melts so be careful)

I couldn't find the blue rubber seals???...(Just kidding) Wow, I'm still trying to figure out if you really have a lot of time on your hands or if you are poking fun...me thinks the later

Thanks everyone for the posts, I'm gonna try the MM to 12000 then Meguiars PlastX because it is easy to get to and cheap. I still can't seem to get any better with the super fine polish and the buff wheel vs the 12000 MM so I'll let you know how the plastic polish with a microfiber applicator works out.

-Dude
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:01 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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I couldn't find the blue rubber seals???...(Just kidding) Wow, I'm still trying to figure out if you really have a lot of time on your hands or if you are poking fun...me thinks the later

Thanks everyone for the posts, I'm gonna try the MM to 12000 then Meguiars PlastX because it is easy to get to and cheap. I still can't seem to get any better with the super fine polish and the buff wheel vs the 12000 MM so I'll let you know how the plastic polish with a microfiber applicator works out.

-Dude
The later would be correct! I thought my "formula" was just as good as some of the other concoctions I saw!
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:44 PM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Halleluiah !!!!

Tried the Plastx plastic polish. For those who have been MMing without using Plastic polish at the end....you don't know what you have been missing! I used to spend 30 min MMing to get the best shine possible, and it was pretty good, but just peeled off three pens with only about 10 min of MMing and finishing with Plastic polish.....fabulous! Used microfiber cloth available at most autozones to buff the plastic polish while on the lathe and shazam! no little scratches..nothing visible to the naked eye. Along with George's suggestion to wait at least 24 hours for your CA to dry, I have found my panacea!

Thanks all for the suggestions, and the responses to this forum.

-Dude

Steve Barry
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