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Old 03-30-2014, 03:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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But why use it? It is not a quality pen finish by any stretch of the imagination. It does work on un-touched items...HF's, decorative platters, maybe a candle stick or two, but pens?? The stuff has been proven a bad finish over and over again.
Are you referring to shellawax, pens plus or both?

Personally I don't have any shellawax anymore but used a little bottle for candle bases etc.

I'm not convinced your statement us true if applied to pens plus. Are you aware of negative wear with that product specifically?

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Old 03-30-2014, 04:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I am convinced because it's been tried, discussed and re-discussed more than "What is the best kit to use"
Look at the ingredients...wax, and shellac...neither of which are proven, high use finishes. If it's a display pen...as was discussed just a week or two ago, Mylands style/type finish would work. Take the challenge...make two pens, same every thing...finish one in a wax based finish and the other in WOP or CA...use and abuse them equally for a month and see what wears better. Better to try and have proof than ask and have someone's opinion.
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I am convinced because it's been tried, discussed and re-discussed more than "What is the best kit to use" Look at the ingredients...wax, and shellac...neither of which are proven, high use finishes. If it's a display pen...as was discussed just a week or two ago, Mylands style/type finish would work. Take the challenge...make two pens, same every thing...finish one in a wax based finish and the other in WOP or CA...use and abuse them equally for a month and see what wears better. Better to try and have proof than ask and have someone's opinion.
Probably would be wise to try such an experiencent.

Short of extensive experiments myself, there are other folks here who I respect their expertise and craftsmanship who say that pens plus is proving to be durable.

What I'm wondering in this thread is if the process that is used to make pens plus different could be a difference maker.

Have you or are you aware of others who have used doctors woodshop pens plus specifically and found it to not be durable?

That's the question. I don't accept you dismissing it out of hand because of the ingredients And I mean that respectfully.

It may be lacking, but that remains yet to be seen.

Personally, I like CA. But if there is an alternate finish that is durable and simple, I am interested in having it available.
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Have you or are you aware of others who have used doctors woodshop pens plus specifically and found it to not be durable? I seem to remember a few post about that finish...I have never used it

That's the question. I don't accept you dismissing it out of hand because of the ingredients And I mean that respectfully. I've used wax/shellac based finishes...the questions is have you tried them -vs- others?

It may be lacking, but that remains yet to be seen.

Personally, I like CA. But if there is an alternate finish that is durable and simple, I am interested in having it available.[/quote] Of late, using the search function...Les Elm has a great tutorial on WOP that has many people using it...have you tried it?
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Old 03-30-2014, 06:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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I'm in an ongoing casual look at alternates while keep ca as the finish I use when it matters.

Wop should be on that list as les's pens look great.

In another realm of finishes, I have craft cost and wtf that are arill in ongoing experimentation.

I want to try dipping with craft coat as well.

But fundamentally I agree with you about most of the friction polishes such as shellawax, mylands and hut crystal coat not being adequately durable for regular handling.
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Old 03-30-2014, 06:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Like you...WTF is kind of a mystery...I have several more iterations to work through...but the cost is a bit rough. Let's keep notes going and make sure we do "clinical" type assessments. Many good finish things to try...the one's that haven't had a good try deserve a good trial and review.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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I wasn't a believer in the durability of any friction polish until I started using my own recipe of shellac, walnut oil, and caranuba. I cook it after mixing and it now does not seperate.

I've been carrying a Venetian from Roy with this finish every day for two months. My job puts this pen to the test....in and out of my pocket probably 50 times a day. I swear the finish is as nice today as it was two months ago.

The only difference is the level of shine is less than CA and it does not build like CA. There was a time when I would never use any other finish than CA. Now I rarely use it.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:12 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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But why use it? It is not a quality pen finish by any stretch of the imagination. It does work on un-touched items...HF's, decorative platters, maybe a candle stick or two, but pens?? The stuff has been proven a bad finish over and over again.
That depends somewhat on what strikes you as a "bad" finish doesn't it?

My personal opinion is biased because I happen to like a natural look on wood - I am not overly fond of super high sheen on wood pens and if the finish wears some - so what? I like the look of the wood.

So for what I like, shellawax and mylands are fine, they produce enough shine to suit my taste and last plenty long enough. I still like the look when the shine is gone.

I might well try the one mentioned in the OP.
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Old 03-30-2014, 10:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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I personally like the pens plus finish for hard wood. I don't think it looks as good on softer wood. I did a desert iron wood pen with pens plus about 7 or 8 months ago, and I think it looks as good as the day I finished it. It doesn't get a lot of use, but it does get some.

But my experience with maple wasn't as good. The finish became dull after a short time. If I use any spalted wood, I'll use CA till I can find an alternative. I do plan on trying the dipped method someday.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:59 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Pens Plus and the other Doctor's products are friction polishes, but there is something substantially different about the chemical breakdown of the Doctor's products. In this case, the inventor is a doctor of chemistry who spent years working on the microcrystaline structure of the product. For those who have done a fair amount of friction polishing, you will notice an immediate difference in the way Pens Plus performs while still applying it to the pen. The inventor can tell you all about why this is so, but I only absorbed some of the science behind it. It goes on easily and evenly-very nice to work with.

As to longevity of the finish, the inventor claimed that due to the structure of the crystals in the product, they adhere to the wood better and have superior wear resistance. In his demonstration booth, he had a basket full of bottle stoppers, all of which were finished with Pens Plus. He told me that he uses the same basket full at each demonstration he does, where the stoppers are picked up and examined over and over, rubbed, etc. To keep the shine, he sometimes uses a fine cloth over the stoppers.

So how did they look? They were beautiful! What I noticed immediately about the finish is that there was a mild shine, but not intense enough to cause glare. This allowed you to see the grain much more clearly and as a result, the beauty of the wood dominated. I have not tried Pens Plus yet, but other members of the local pen turning club are giving it a try. I know several bowl turners who use the product and endorse it heartily.

I hope this helps.

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