Padded sanding

[ed4copies]

Editorial opinion:

IF you are using acrylics, cast acrylics, celluloids or hard rubber (ebonite), it is NOT a good idea to use padded sanding pieces.

The padding keeps you from feeling any HEAT build up. So you won't singe your "finnies", meanwhile your "meltable media" can start smoking!!!

On these materials, you CAN use wet sanding (I don't) or you can sand with paper or cloth that allows you to instantly sense a heat build up (I do).

Other opinions are encouraged to post. I see a lot of interest in padded sanding, I have always wondered WHAT the advantage is.

So, tell me!!!

 

[hewunch]

I use padded MM and do it wet. Never had a problem with over heating that way.

 

[ed4copies]

Hans,

Why is padding an advantage? If you are wet sanding a piece that is ready for MM, (it is already VERY smooth) why the padding??

 

[jleiwig]

Hans,

Why is padding an advantage? If you are wet sanding a piece that is ready for MM, (it is already VERY smooth) why the padding??

absorbing irregularities in the surface under the sandpaper (ie. your fingers). It's not such a big deal with a couple swipes of 12000 gritor a round blank for that matter, but lower grits can be an issue.

If you want to experiment paint a flat panel with black laquer and then hand sand without some sort of backing pad. Let me know what kind of results you get! :biggrin:

 

[ed4copies]

Justin,

I know what it will look like on flat items, rubbing my hand back and forth at fifty revolutions per minute. But, for turning, my hand is constantly moving and the piece is moving at or above 1000 revolutions per minute. So, it is not going to be uneven pressure, unless I have REALLY POOR technique, keeping my hand in one position forever --- which the padding will not stop from happening, either.

 

[hewunch]

Because I use it for more than just pens. And the little pad is what they had at woodcraft. Plus it fits my water cup nicely.

Oh and when I sand, I don't put my finger under the paper, I use the sling method, so I wouldn't "feel" it anyways.

 

[rjwolfe3]

I had a real problem with burning my padded micro mesh but since I switched over to the non padded, no more burning. And this was wet or dry.

 

[mikemac]

Sometimes it's not a 'choice' for people using padded sanding material. I know that Micromesh comes in padded and non padded, I fortunately have both, but perhaps not everyone has? Also, I've seen people use too much pressure with the padded (on wood), and have actually melted/ruined the sanding pad. Not pretty.

 

[GouletPens]

I like the padded more for the size than the pad. The 2x2" pads fit nicely on a half pen blank and are easy to hold. I've never even come close to melting an acrylic and that's dry sanding. Keep the hand moving, turn the lathe as slow as it goes, and use light pressure and you should never melt or create excessive heat. should being the key word there!

 

[maxwell_smart007]

I fold the sheets in half and use them wet, wiping the blank down to remove slurry with every grit...

WOrks well for me!

ANdrew

 

[justaccord]

Ed,

Your point about overheating and padding is well taken, but why not wet sand? You kill the heat problem and so much else (finer scratches, none of that foul dust to inhale).

I don't even use MM on acrylics any more. I just wet sand to 600 then beall buff with rouge and white, maybe some ren wax or plastic polish.

 

[RussFairfield]

The problem with wet sanding is there is always the potential for the water getting under the finish. If your ends are sealed, and you don't sand through the finish, there is no problem. If water can get under the finish, you do have a problem.

 

[BRobbins629]

When I used pads, I was always misplacing a grit and having trouble reading the grit after a while. I switched to 2 x 6 sheets, punched a hole in the top of each one and keep in order on a shower ring. No need to read the grits anymore as I just go to the next in order and have not misplaced a sheet in several years.

 

[pipecrafter]

I use Abralon, not because it's padded, but because it's the right abrasive for the job. Micro Mesh, even though they use a wacked out grit spec, is the same abrasive as Abralon. I guess it just so happens that the most readily available products with a silicon carbide abrasive in the best configuration happen to be padded as well.

That said, you really do have to be very cognizant of heat. This is where experience takes over. I started using Abralon about 5 years ago just because I got excellent results from it. YMMV, and other folks can get great results using 3M, Finkat, or gator-grit paper.

Plus, I buy Abralon by the box, so it's always handy.

 

[ed4copies]

My motivation is more to see what the "community" thinks. Remember, www.exoticblanks.com continues to look for product opportunities.

I RARELY use MM. Assuming I am doing a resin of any kind: Normal procedure, sand to 1000 grit (dry), take off mandrel, put on wood dowel, buff with tripoli until it looks good, buff with white diamond until it looks GREAT. This procedure is FAST. I like to complete my pens quickly. Hopefully, there will come a day, again, when I have to produce 50 pens on a Thanksgiving Day, between shows. That WON'T be the case, this year.

 

[DozerMite]

I like the padded because it conforms to odd shapes and curves without gouging or digging in. It leaves nice smooth curves. Although I haven't been using it lately, I've been using 400 grit only and a buff.