Opinions wanted

[RPM]

I'm working on a Baron in curly koa. Below is a picture of the blank sanded with MM and one coat of BLO. I need to hit it with MM once more. How would a few coats of TSW buffed to a high gloss hold up? My other option would be to put some lacquer in between the BLO and TSW. Thanks for your thoughts.

edit - I had a brain cramp, this is an Americana rollerball, not a baron

 

[DCBluesman]

In my experience with koa, I would definitely put a couple (maybe 3) coats of lacquer on it before hitting it with TSW. FYI, I usually MM at 3200 between each coat of lacquer to get better adhesion between the coats. A quick shot of 12000 right before the TSW seems to also help. Remember that these are quick shots. The sanding is done. You're just roughing the surface enough to get maximum adhesion.

 

[jwoodwright]

Lou beat me to it, I use TSW over everything now, really love it over a friction polish...[]

 

[wayneis]

If you have already used BLO then I don't think that you should use lacqure, it will not bind. I think that you would be better off using CA. In the future if you want to use lacqure then seal the wood first with sanding sealer then use the lacqure.

Wayne

 

[Mudder]

Originally posted by jwoodwright
<br />Lou beat me to it, I use TSW over everything now, really love it over a friction polish...[]

Make that two of us. That TSW is great stuff and I'm waiting for the IPO so I can buy some stock.

 

[RPM]

I was under the impresion that lacquer could be applied over BLO. I have done several pens that way and they seem to be fine. What do the rest of you think?
Richard

 

[DCBluesman]

I'm not interested in picking a fight over this issue, but there is absolutely no reason why lacquer cannot be applied over BLO. The chemical additives to the linseed oil allow it to fully cure. Once it cures, it will take lacquer, poly and just about anything you'd want to throw at it. FYI, TSW takes to lacquer like a duck takes to water!

 

[ilikewood]

I have tried lacquer over BLO before. Unless TOTALLY cured (which may take days), it can cause the lacquer to stay "soft" as the "chemicals" that cause curing also keep the lacquer soft. I didn't notice the problem until a day or so later when the surface scratched quite easily. I then proceded to remove all the lacquer with my fingernail.

Not all BLO has additives for fast drying, so please make sure it is completely cured before lacquer addition.

BTW - Lou do you mean that ducks like water or that water is repelled off of ducks? []

 

[C_Ludwigsen]

I have done lacquer over BLO as well. But now I know to let it cure completely []. Can you cut the BLO with mineral spirits or another chemical to speed the curing?

 

[Gary]

Yes you can use lacquer over BLO. I've done it for years. The secret is what Lou and Bill touched on. Granted it can take days for raw linseed oil to dry and cure. You have to make sure you use a high quality boiled linseed oil. Don't use one that has had beeswax added to it (such as Tried & True). A high quality boiled linseed oil will have a metalic drying agent and sometimes other drying agents added to it and will normally dry in 24 hours unless in high humidity conditions. After it drys, you can topcoat it with lacquer, poly, varnish, whatever.

 

[DCBluesman]

Absolutely, Bill, the BLO <b>must</b> be cured. If anyone wants to use is as a sealer coat, make sure it is labeled either <b>fast drying</b> or <b>fast curing</b>. Some BLO has the cure time on the label, other's you have to visit the website to get that information. It's very important to have that info.

As for the TSW, it takes to lacquer LIKE [] a duck takes to water. I use water-borne lacquer on most of my pens, then top coat with TSW. The two are a match made in heaven. [8D]