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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 12-05-2017, 05:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Open Grain Wood

Still more questions on finishing.
Project is a Seam Ripper.. but, could be a pen or stopper or ??

With open grain woods such as walnut, bubinga, wenge to name a few.. when I finish turning and start working my way up thru different papers, I get sanding dust in the open pores. More often than not, I am unable to blow that dust out of the pores.. it seems it gets impacted.

I don't wan this to show through the finish.

Suggestions?

What about using a sanding sealer? I'm guessing this is to no only even out stain absorption.. but, should fill the grain. If this is true, does the addition of the SS affect how the wood depth shows through when the finish is applied? Hope I'm saying that correctly.
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Compressed air like you use for cleaning dust off the computer. However, SWMBO bought me an air compressor for Christmas.
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Bill, what i do is put a couple coats of thin ca glue on before any sanding. When you apply the ca i sometime use a 220 grit sandpaper to apply it and it builds a little slurry.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchipper View Post
Compressed air like you use for cleaning dust off the computer. However, SWMBO bought me an air compressor for Christmas.
Thanks woodchipper, as mentioned above.. I don't necessarily have great luck blowing it out. Depending on the pores.. even light wire brushing won't pull it out of the pores.. The pores that are longitudinal I can often get out with that brass brush.

Hi Jim.. I'm interested in trying this.. However, I will say that anytime I try to use CA.. even at bottom speed, it seems to heat up and get hard pretty quick. This has always confused me as I see people working with CA for maybe 5 seconds or so.. I'd love to be in that situation at times. What's the secret..?

Last edited by Spinzwood; 12-05-2017 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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The secret is medium CA, not the thin one. It takes a few seconds more to cure. Great for sealing, mixed with dust on a coarse sanding paper, as Jim said. When dry, sand off the excess.
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Actually I have noticed a variety among all three weights of CA (thin, medium & gel/thick) often on the label with working times from seconds to a minute or more and set/cure times of seconds to 30 minutes even though they are all called CA glues. I found Gorilla CA didnít work at all as a finish for me though it was good for tubes. Loctite and generic CA both did well, for example.


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Old 12-05-2017, 09:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Thanks folks.. I'll give this a try on a piece of scrap to see if I can master it. If I have s good level of success.. it's time.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I use 2 or 3 coats of thin CA before sanding. . You can even do a very light cut after the CA. . And you can repeat this process until you are satisfied that the pores are filled.

I have never used a sealer because I don't like waiting for things to dry.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Default Open Grain Wood

[quote=Spinzwood;1954172]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchipper View Post

Hi Jim.. I'm interested in trying this.. However, I will say that anytime I try to use CA.. even at bottom speed, it seems to heat up and get hard pretty quick. This has always confused me as I see people working with CA for maybe 5 seconds or so.. I'd love to be in that situation at times. What's the secret..?

As Jim said medium CA. Craft foam or nitrile glove as the applicator will give you more working time as well. They do not absorb and react with the glue like paper towel. The medium fills as well.

Last edited by Talltim; 12-05-2017 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Default Finishing end grain

What I have found with use of CA sealing pores and trying stabilizing they wood before making a pen.
Just got finished with Walnut base. Wood with Paduk and maple inserts.
CA only worked fairly good. But still had unaccepital results from final sand.
Stabilized wood did a better job in containing the condition.
The final test was CA and stabilized wood. Best results.
Long time consuming process, have to question the valve of use of soft open pored wood.
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