texasfootball21
Member
I am considering trying out a polyurethane finish that I saw in the library. I was wondering what problems can occur with this finish(and CA finish) when applied to oily woods, such as BOW and ebony.
Thanks
Thanks
Oily Woods
- Thread starter texasfootball21
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leehljp
Member Liaison
(Poly note below) Some people have problems with CA on oily woods as you mentioned. I don't and haven't in a while. I had a problem with the CA lifting on the ends on about 1 in 3 BOW or ebony when I was finishing with bushings on a mandrel. However, when I started using the mandrel-less method, I used bushings for turning to size, took the bushings off for finishing. Since doing this, I have not had one time in which a CA "lift" occurred on the ends.
I used to think that the lift occurred because the snapping of the bushing from the blank. However, The more I think of this, the more I think the lift that occurred from the snapping - was the symptom. By finishing without bushings, I no longer WAX the bushings.
It is my thinking that waxing bushings causes wax residue to migrate to the blank ends. ANY kind of sanding or rubbing will transfer this wax to the blank, which will be a barrier to good CA or other adhesion. So, Wax bushings to prevent sticking and you create potential for CA lift. Don't wax, and you have bushings sticking in the tubes or to the blank.
. . . or go to the mandrel-less method and use bushings to turn to size; take them off for finishing.
Some people rub the blanks prior to finishing with acetone, some with CA accelerator, some rub the blanks at med to high speed for 10 to 20 seconds with a paper towel; The let it set for a couple of minutes and apply the finish.
POLY: Poly should work OK for you, but take into account that Poly should set for - up to a week in some cases - for curing. Yes, poly hardens fast but curing takes longer. It takes "curing" for most finishes to operate at their best. Just because finishes are hard don't mean that it has cured. If you want to fine sand and polish it, it needs to be cured first.
Example: this pen finished fine. Within an hour after apply the CA, I finished it up. But within a few days, I saw some very minor indentions that followed wood grain movement. This is natural and also a part of curing. I went back and refinished by sanding a light layer off, including the ripples from wood movement - sanding it down. I applied a couple of light coats on top of that and it never telegraphed the wood features again after that. This kind of movement and imperfections show up in finishes that have not cured properly - or long enough before final finish. Curing is important for the finest of finishes.
I used to think that the lift occurred because the snapping of the bushing from the blank. However, The more I think of this, the more I think the lift that occurred from the snapping - was the symptom. By finishing without bushings, I no longer WAX the bushings.
It is my thinking that waxing bushings causes wax residue to migrate to the blank ends. ANY kind of sanding or rubbing will transfer this wax to the blank, which will be a barrier to good CA or other adhesion. So, Wax bushings to prevent sticking and you create potential for CA lift. Don't wax, and you have bushings sticking in the tubes or to the blank.
. . . or go to the mandrel-less method and use bushings to turn to size; take them off for finishing.
Some people rub the blanks prior to finishing with acetone, some with CA accelerator, some rub the blanks at med to high speed for 10 to 20 seconds with a paper towel; The let it set for a couple of minutes and apply the finish.
POLY: Poly should work OK for you, but take into account that Poly should set for - up to a week in some cases - for curing. Yes, poly hardens fast but curing takes longer. It takes "curing" for most finishes to operate at their best. Just because finishes are hard don't mean that it has cured. If you want to fine sand and polish it, it needs to be cured first.
Example: this pen finished fine. Within an hour after apply the CA, I finished it up. But within a few days, I saw some very minor indentions that followed wood grain movement. This is natural and also a part of curing. I went back and refinished by sanding a light layer off, including the ripples from wood movement - sanding it down. I applied a couple of light coats on top of that and it never telegraphed the wood features again after that. This kind of movement and imperfections show up in finishes that have not cured properly - or long enough before final finish. Curing is important for the finest of finishes.
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Dave_M
Member
Interesting observation. I've recently run into this problem when working with Enduro. All of the sudden the finish on ends of my pens was lifting. I hadn't thought about it before but I started waxing my bushing while playing around with a CA finish.
I couldn't figure it out but I was getting very frustrated and just about to go back to lacquer. I might still go back to using lacquer because it's so easy (for me) to apply and the visual quality of the finish is hard to beat. Enduro isn't bad at all but I can't get that beautiful wet look from Enduro and it looks and feels a bit plasticy to me.
My attempts at using CA have been very inconsistent, but I keep trying now and then.
Hexhead
Member
Using a poly resin glue work well when using oily woods like Cocobolo.