Newbie finishing question

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Mike6453

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Joined
Feb 18, 2019
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11
Location
Hoover, Alabama
Hi! I have been trying to soak in all of the information about pen turning before I invest the big dollars in lathes and good turning tools. So I'm concentrating studying finishing at the moment. It seems there's hundreds of different methods to finish a pen, which means I need to find what I like. I get that. What I have having difficulty understanding is buffing. So here are my questions:
- Is buffing necessary for all finishes -- and for both wood and acrylic blanks?
- If it is, I think I may start out buffing on the lathe instead of another machine. For you who use your lathe for buffing, I've read about the Beall buffing systems but I'm trying to understand what to put the buffing wheels onto. The lathe I'm wanting is the Lagua Revo 1216, which has 15.5" between centers.
- How many buffing wheels do I need and for which compound to put on the buffing wheel?
I'll stop there since I could go all day with questions. Many thanks for helping a new kid on the block!!!
Mike
 
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monophoto

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Mar 13, 2010
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Saratoga Springs, NY
These are my opinions. Others are free to disagree.

You don't NEED to buff. But you might want to.

I'm not a production pen maker, but I have made a few and have a few opinions.

I don't especially like a CA finish - it's too glossy for my taste, but I understand that some people like that. But my experience is that you don't need to buff to get a good finish with CA - you just need practice and good technique. Some people recommend applying CA in conjunction with BLO, and my experience with that approach was reasonably good. Sand through the grits and then use multiple applications of CA, allow it to cure, and then polish with all grades of micromesh. Finally, then use a plastic polish (such as Meguiars PlastX) with a soft paper (such as toilet tissue).

I usually use a lacquer-based friction polish (equal measures of lacquer, lacquer thinner, and oil - I use pure Tung oil - and shake well before using). Sand through the grits, pply at least three coats - more would be better. It won't be a high-gloss finish, but it will look very nice, and it's long lasting. Avoid shellac-based friction polishes - they don't hold up well over time.

I've also used wipe-on poly - it's tough, and it looks nice - almost as glossy as CA. You can polish it with micromesh and Meguiars PlastX, or you can buff it. But it's time-consuming because you have to allow each application to cure at least four hours before applying another coat. Water based poly is also an option although it's generally too 'bluish' for my taste.

As to buffing, you can buy the Beall system, or you can buy individual wheels and buffing compounds at most hardware stores (including Homers and Harbor Freight). Its easy to concoct a mount to attach them to your lathe - I made wooden arbors from scraps that are drilled and tapped to screw onto my lathe spindle, and then use nuts and bolts from the hardware store to attach the wheels to these arbors.
 

Edgar

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Feb 6, 2013
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Alvin, TX 77511
There's as many answers to your questions as there are turners like most things I The turning world, it largely comes down to personal preferences.

I simply use a wadded white Bounty paper towel. With wood blanks, I just buff with the towel after applying whatever finish I want (except CA). With plastic blanks (or after a CA finish on wood), my final step is to spritz the blank with Plexus, then buff with the wadded paper towel. Plexus instructions say to use a wadded cloth rather than a paper towel. I've tried it both ways & cant tell the difference, but maybe I'm just not discerning enough.

My advice would be to hold off on investing in buffing equipment until (or if) you decide you want or need that equipment. I would practice simple finishes with a variety of polishes to see what you like best.

https://smile.amazon.com/Plexus-Pla...&s=gateway&sprefix=plastix&sr=8-33&th=1&psc=1
 

Sly Dog

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Nov 16, 2018
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417
Location
Boise, Idaho
Mike I am a newbie as well and all the advice above is solid. I haven't found buffing to be most essential part of finishing and sometimes doesn't make any noticeable improvement to the finish. I don't have the best buffing system on the market but a pretty good one - the two-wheel buffing system from Arizona Silhouette with just the blue rouge. It's fine but, again, not essential imho.

This goes beyond your question about buffing but I am finding -with wood blanks - that I just have to experiment with different finishes and I am a long way from settling on a favorite. A lot of variables in finishing wood from the openness of the grain to oiliness, to name a couple. I like CA but I'm allergic to it so CA is a longer, slower process for me than for others in order to limit my exposure. I'm experimenting with other finishes and enjoying it. I recently had a pretty good result with sanding sealer and friction polish, though I've read other threads where some really don't like it. There are a lot of threads here on finishing going back years and it is easy to search for them. Lots of strong opposing opinions there about the which finishes are great and which ones suck. You're gonna just have to find what works best for you.

Acrylics are easier in my experience. If I micromesh carefully I can often get a great shine - no polish necessary; sometimes I apply a plastic polish, but I've also distorted the shine from the heat of the plastic polish. Here too there are a lot of different products and techniques to try.

Enjoy the journey and share what is working for you.
Russ
 
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I'm in the arena with Monophoto. I don't normally like a high shine to my pens or other items. I use an oil finish, sometimes Tung oil and sometimes Teak oil, it depends on the wood species. I apply the oil on the lathe, about 3-4 coats, let it sit overnight. The next day I'll come out and use very fine steel wool on each piece and if I want a dull finish I'll buff it just a bit. If I want a bit of luster to it I'll put some Renaissance wax on it and buff that. I've never had anyone complain about the finish. I do use the Beall buffing system when needed and have for many years now.
 

JimB

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Mar 18, 2008
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West Henrietta, NY, USA.
Buffing is not necessary but is a personal choice depending on your finishing technique and you desired results.

As far as a buffing system I have the 3 Beall wheels and compounds. I bought the wheels and not the system because I made a 'mandrel' from wood to mount them wheels individually on my lathe. I took a piece of scrap wood that was about 2" square and 6 inches long (Spindle Turning blank) turned it round, drilled and tapped one end so it screws onto my headstock Spindle. Drilled the other end with a small hole and inserted an appropriate size T nut. The buffing wheel just mounts onto the T nut.

The only reason the homemade mandrel is that long is so the buffing wheel is away from the headstock so I can buff larger pieces such as bowls.
 

leehljp

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Feb 6, 2005
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Tunica, Mississippi,
I have a good buffing system and have had it for several years, but I haven't developed the right technique due to sheer inexperience. I have been very comfortable with that because I developed my own techniques from experience early on to the point that the shine on my pens will stand up to magnifying glass inspection out in the sunlight. Once you get to a point, it won't get any better except under maybe a high power microscope. Micro-fine Sandpaper and polish can bring about the same results as buffing because they both use the same cutting grits and polishes. The differences is the application techniques.

I tend to over buff and ruin a good finish, then have to re-finish the pen. For me, it is a technique issue that I haven't taken the time to master. It is a good method, a very good method if practiced and used correctly. But as said above, it is not necessary in order to obtain the same results.
 
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DENO

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Dec 6, 2017
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Huntington,indiana
tung oil

most tung oil is junk today. Exception is polmerized Tung oil (forget stuff called PURE) just make sure it is really a polmerized Tung TOTALLY different & waterproof
 
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