Natural finish

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Pen&FishingCT

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either making pens or fishing
i've seen some pens without finish,it appears like no CA. i understand some people or client don't want high gloss finish but they also want a protective finish against hand dirt,i would call it.
what would be the most productive way to leave the wood as natural as possible and good protection.
your takes on that please.thank you.
 
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babyblues

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i've seen some pens without finish,it appears like no CA. i understand some people or client don't want high gloss finish but they also want a protective finish against hand dirt,i would call it.
what would be the most productive way to leave the wood as natural as possible and good protection.
your takes on that please.thank you.

Check out Russ Fairfield's videos in the library here. His CA/BLO finish might give you the natural look and feel you're going for.

I've used Danish Oil for a natural look too.
 

Skye

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I'd go with something like Renaissance Wax. Just be sure to tell the buyer to buff it with some furniture polish and a cotton cloth from time to time.
 

leehljp

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For the sake of a good finish, use CA and go all the way to 12000 MM. When you can see a good consistent finish on the whole blank, use 2400 MM lightly and then 3200 lightly or 3600. If 3600 has too much of a shine and not enough sheen, then back down to 3200 and Wax.

The following pict of two pens with the same amount of CA finish - show what I was trying to achieve in a look with less shine but plenty of protection:

1_2Cigs_2Fin_1Burl.jpg


One warning - after about 6 months of use, the sheen will turn into a natural shine due to wear - kind of like the shine/sheen that keyboard keys begin to develop after a year or so of use.
 
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GouletPens

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Whatever you use, put renaissance wax on top...it's real fast and easy and it does a great job protecting. The only thing i've tried it on that doesn't work real well is Watco spray gloss lacquer, but that could have been b/c I didn't let the lacquer cure long enough, only about 24 hours. Not sure.
 

areaman

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wouldnt a satin type of poly or varnish do the same thing? Give a durable vinish but not the high gloss. Just wondering after reading the replies.
 

leehljp

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wouldnt a satin type of poly or varnish do the same thing? Give a durable vinish but not the high gloss. Just wondering after reading the replies.

Yes, if you want poly as a finish. One of the complaints or shared experiences from some of the old timers on this forum - concerns the deterioration of finishes in sweaty hands and humid shirt pockets. Body moisture is somewhat corrosive to finishes that happen to be just fine on tables and furniture.

Comparatively speaking, CA is generally quicker to apply, more durable, harder and longer lasting in sweaty hands and body moisture in shirt pockets. However, it shines too much for some, which is what I was addressing when I did the experiment.
 

Ligget

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Enduro is a nice protective coating that isn`t quite as plastic looking as CA can be, although when applied properly the Enduro finish has a glossy look the wooden pen barrels still feel like wood and the glossy look will tone down a little through use.

I get my Enduro from Ernie.
 

babyblues

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For the sake of a good finish, use CA and go all the way to 12000 MM. When you can see a good consistent finish on the whole blank, use 2400 MM lightly and then 3200 lightly or 3600. If 3600 has too much of a shine and not enough sheen, then back down to 3200 and Wax.

The following pict of two pens with the same amount of CA finish - show what I was trying to achieve in a look with less shine but plenty of protection:

One warning - after about 6 months of use, the sheen will turn into a natural shine due to wear - kind of like the shine/sheen that keyboard keys begin to develop after a year or so of use.
The thing with that is you can still see the scratch marks in the finish if you stop at a more coarse grit of MM...at least I can. Than again, how many people scrutinize their pens from 5 inches under a bright light.

Tung oil, real tung oil, works great as a more natural finish. I think someone already mentioned tung oil. You can control the shine by how many coats you apply.

Waxes would be good too because they can be reapplied and buffed with a rag without having to worry about getting it on the metal parts.
 

leehljp

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The thing with that is you can still see the scratch marks in the finish if you stop at a more coarse grit of MM...at least I can. Than again, how many people scrutinize their pens from 5 inches under a bright light.

Tung oil, real tung oil, works great as a more natural finish. I think someone already mentioned tung oil. You can control the shine by how many coats you apply.

Waxes would be good too because they can be reapplied and buffed with a rag without having to worry about getting it on the metal parts.

You are right that they can be seen - but not nearly as much as it sounds. When you have a shiny finish, you can see scratches easily, but when the whole thing is at 3200 / 3600 they are not noticeable because there is no shine to be broken by a scratch. Three or four coats of wax over that produce a wonderful sheen. Actually, that is no different than finished wood furniture sanded with 600/800 grit sandpaper and waxed - that most people love.
 

marcruby

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I think we're a host of CA addicts to the point where we've created a whole mythology around why we use it. I've seen minimally finished bowls put into daily use and subjected to the kind of abuse a pen never sees for years and all they do is develop a very attractive patina. And there ain't nothing as hopelessly ugly as a worn CA finish.

All it takes to make a pen stay 'naturally' finished is some sealing coats of shellac to saturate the pores and moderate buffing. And then a bit of wax. Just tell the new owner not to drop the pen into his drink.

What I can't figure out is why I keep using CA as much as I do... I need to start taking some of my own advice.

Marc
 
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