Myland's melamine

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Rifleman1776

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Dec 18, 2004
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Mountain Home, Arkansas, USA.
Early on as a beginning woodturner I saw a demonstration where Myland's friction polish was used. It looked great and the almost instant drying time caught my attention. But when I started making pens, it became evident that the finish is less than durable for repeated handling. And that was confirmed by others on this list. It was suggested that Myland's Melamine was more durable for things like pens. So I bought some. And, thus far, I am very dissapointed. It does not dry instantly but does sorta 'gum up' quickly. It will actually pull fibers out of rags when applying or from paper towels. It doesn't seem to smooth with friction and the final finish is less than desirable, in my opinion. [xx(] I have concluded that it IS NOT a friction finish. In the meantime, I'll go back to tried and true Myland's friction finish until I decide to experiment with something else.
 

Deere41h

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Dec 30, 2004
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446
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Denton, TX, USA.
I have had the best results with Mylands Friction Polish when I apply three coats of sanding sealer on the pen before the polish. The first two coats are sanding sealer mixed 50-50 with a cellulose Lacqure thinner and the third coat is straight cellulose sanding sealer. Then apply the friction polish. I think you will get better results. That is if you want to stay with friction polish as a finish. Before I apply anything to a pen I MM to 12000 and then use EEE Shine. That give me a super surface to start with. Try it and let me know what you think.
 

gerberpens

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Jan 8, 2005
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108
Location
Arkadelphia, Arkansas, USA.
I watched the PSI pen making video and the guy uses EEE Shine as his last step in the snading process. There are abrasives in EEE Shine that take a sanding job of 400-600 grit to around 2000-2500 grit. Or in that neighborhood. He then followed with Shellawax friction polish as the final step for the pen.

For what that is worht ...

Gary
 
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