CrashmanS
Member
As a car painter for a long time, I have access to a lot of different materials for removing and buffing defects from paint. When I started turning pens 10 years ago, I used what I had to get a perfect flawless finish on my acrylic and Corian pens. This, as I've found out, can be alot cheaper than the micromesh system currently out there. It will also last alot longer.
So here it is. 220 wet, to 600 wet, to 1500 wet. Then Polish with 3m microfinishing compound followed with 3m swirl remover. I buy my products in a quart size. And while not cheap it will last forever. You can also buy it in smaller bottles in the normal auto places (auto zone, advanced, etc.) Wet sandpaper can be had at about any auto place as well, but i get the good 3m wet and dry paper at my local NAPA store for a little bit of nothing per sheet. And it's 8.5 x 11 inch sheet. Not the little squares of the micro mesh pads.
This is just my process that works for me. If you have a system in place you are happy with, great. I finish my CA using the same system except I don't use the 220. I 600 to smooth, 1500 to remove the 600 scratches and then Polish with the 3m microfinishing compound.
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So here it is. 220 wet, to 600 wet, to 1500 wet. Then Polish with 3m microfinishing compound followed with 3m swirl remover. I buy my products in a quart size. And while not cheap it will last forever. You can also buy it in smaller bottles in the normal auto places (auto zone, advanced, etc.) Wet sandpaper can be had at about any auto place as well, but i get the good 3m wet and dry paper at my local NAPA store for a little bit of nothing per sheet. And it's 8.5 x 11 inch sheet. Not the little squares of the micro mesh pads.
This is just my process that works for me. If you have a system in place you are happy with, great. I finish my CA using the same system except I don't use the 220. I 600 to smooth, 1500 to remove the 600 scratches and then Polish with the 3m microfinishing compound.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk