My CA Method

[rglinks]

Questions for Fanger..............

Can Mylands FP be used instead of HUT's Plastic Polish?
Takes a while to get these items in where I live (Can't be aired in.)
I got Myland's because I was told it was the best.

I'm new at this and still have a lot of ?'s but I've tried so many different way to finish but nolthing seems to last.

 

[rglinks]

Sorry but thanks ahead of time..


Ron................

 

[Fangar]

Ron,

Many people use Myland's over the top of a CA finish for an additional protectant prior to sale, but eventually it will wear off. As far as using it for a polish, I am not real sure that would work. The HUT PP has an abrasive in it that polishes, and is not necessarily a finish. I would think that if you still had some scratches in the surface, the Myland's would likely not do much there.

Maybe give it a try and let us know of your results.

Cheers,

Fangar

 

[snoplow]

It was asked once but I don't think it was ever answered, do you apply the sanding sealer with a brush or a paper towel? Lathe spinning or not? By the way, you do some fantastic looking work!
Thanks
Roy

 

[Randy_]

Roy: I just tried some Mylands SS for the first time on a new handle I was making for a tool to adjust the garage door spring. Used paper towels for application and it came apart and made a mess. I was just using cheap Dollar Store paper towels so maybe good ones would work better; but I will be using a lint-free cloth from now on.

 

[Fangar]

Originally posted by snoplow
<br />It was asked once but I don't think it was ever answered, do you apply the sanding sealer with a brush or a paper towel? Lathe spinning or not? By the way, you do some fantastic looking work!
Thanks
Roy

Sorry about missing that Roy. I use the shop towels (Paper) that I get from Costco. I like them. If you apply to much pressure with paper towels, they will break up. Not a lot of pressure is needed. Lathe spinning. 1800 rpm.

Thanks for the compliments on the work.

Cheers,

Fangar

 

[rglinks]

Fanger

I just tried your method using your instructions and I would like to tell you that this is the best finish that I have come across out of all the the ones that I have tried. I could'nt follow your instructions to the T because I cannot get the Hut Plastic Polish where I live(Cannot Air In). I used Mothers Plastic Polish instead of Hut and the results was fantastic

Thanks again for the instructions

Ron.......

 

[Fangar]

Ron,

Really glad to hear that you achieved good results. When you get some time, post up some of those pens so that we can all learn from your work. Thanks for the kind words and you're welcome.

Fangar

 

[bobm]

Fangar,
Outstanding pens....really like the elegnt american...does the center band have smooth (or rough)edges where the gold meets the black recessed band. I just turned one and the band feels rough when my hand slides across it, BB says that's the way its designed and I haven't heard back from Berea...really like the pen sizewize but the CB bothers me...
again great job on the pens...
bob

<br />

 

[Fangar]

Originally posted by bobm
<br />Fangar,
Outstanding pens....really like the elegnt american...does the center band have smooth (or rough)edges where the gold meets the black recessed band. I just turned one and the band feels rough when my hand slides across it, BB says that's the way its designed and I haven't heard back from Berea...really like the pen sizewize but the CB bothers me...
again great job on the pens...
bob

Bob,

That is one of the issues with that kit. It does seem to vary slightly by kit, but all of the elegant americans seem to be a little sharp at the locations you marked.

Good luck with Berea.

Fangar

 

[bobm]

Bob,

That is one of the issues with that kit. It does seem to vary slightly by kit, but all of the elegant americans seem to be a little sharp at the locations you marked.

Good luck with Berea.

Fangar
[/quote]


Fangar,
thanx for the info.
bob

 

[malathan]

After applying the thick CA, when it dries it becomes rough. Is this normal or am I putting on too heavy a coat of CA? I notice that using Viva paper towels seem to act as an accellerator so there is very little time to work the CA to get a very thin coat. Just enough time to make 2 passes back and fourth with applicator. Any more and it starts curing and paper towl sticks.

 

[Fangar]

Clayton,

I only do one pass with the coats of CA. If you go back over it at all, you will get a rough and sometimes pitted surface. The paper on the thic coat is used more to knock the ridges of the thick down into a smoother application. When the two coats of thick harden, you will have some ripples. That is what the sanding with the heavier grits after the application removes. Basically, you are likely sanding through the second of the two coats you just applied to work it back to a mirror smooth surface. Hope that helps.

I should also note that lately I have been omitting the Sanding sealer too. I forgot a couple of times, and figured it looked the same without it. I have done about 4 pens without it and have been just as happy with the results. One less step is always good!

Fangar

 

[malathan]

My problem is that when CA is "wet", it is smooth. When it dries, it feels like it was dipped in sand, pitted and rough. I am assuming this is caused by one of following: too thick a layer of CA or temperature in garage where it sits curing (~50 degrees) or bad CA (Brand new bottle so don't suspect this).

 

[Fangar]

Not sure what might be causing that. The temp is pretty cool to me, but usually resutls ina long cure time. If you are using accelerator, that might be your issue. If I do need to use acc, I only use the aersol, from a distance, and only after a couple of minutes.

Fangar

 

[pssherman]

Clayton,
I recently began using straight thin CA for a finish. I noticed that whenever I used an accelerator, the surface of the CA would wrinkle up. I tried to smooth it out by applying more layers of CA, but it just caused white spots when I sanded it smooth. I found that letting the CA cure without an accelerator produced a smoother finish, with some ripples that were easily sanded out.

Paul in AR

 

[malathan]

I have been letting it dry without accelerator. Usually an hour or two between coats (cool garage + thick CA = long cure time). I did find that using a thinner layer of CA (thick) helped.

When I put the CA on originally, I would drag the paper towel across the blank spreading/smoothing out the CA (pushing the bead of CA across). I didn't use much force and the result was a smooth, but thick coat. But as it dried, it got a grainy rough surface. Sanding this off to be smooth actually broke through the coats of CA fairly fast.

After mm back to 12k, I put the CA (thick) on again. This time I put more force on the paper towel as I rolled and smoothed the CA across the blank (one pass, from one side to another). Result was a thinner coating, but a smoother surface as it dried. Still some roughness that developed, so next test is to heat up garage a bit and/or immediately put the pen/mandrel in the house for drying.

 

[Pipes]

I tried this method and it works great I have changed it a bit thou I put on the sealer Mylands and then a a thin coat a CA it's dry right now then I put on the 2 thick coats a CA and use acc and polish it with Huts plastic polish and then I smooth it with a HI speed about 2500 RPM's with flannel rag this normaly I have found results in a very smooth finish ,, normaly don't go use any white tripoli unless need to take off the CA if I get to much ! thou some woods a act up and get spoty with DNA IMHO I have found ! this happens I start over sand it off and NO DNA and wa la NO spots !I get the acc on asap so it keeps the finish like I left it ! I do heat my shop up good befor I start thou !!! the Huts polish and the flannel I have found are key to a smooth finish again IMO gotta keep the flannel moving or you will melt the CA finish and have to buff it off and start over !
I have also used a Clean buff nuten on it at all instead of the flannel I have a LOT a buffs I use so I have it right there and it is a clean flannel buff so its kina the same as the rag !I think the white tripoli might be dulling it a bit so I stoped that step !!!BUt if I get a ruff spot I have buffed it with white and then cleaned it off and did another coat of CA and acc and then polished it with huts and the rag !!no dry time to speak of is involved I get this all done in about 15 min or less ....I use good paper towel and fold it up thick for everything never had a problem with them coming apart on the material either !

another thing I have found is how well you sand a show up fast !! not going back with each grit the other way with the lathe off turning it by hand and you will get a RUFF finish with CA I have found and I JUST started using it ! NO CHEATING on the sanding using CA IMO !!

fangars finish is fantastic I just modified it to fit me is all ! and Iam NO EXPERT far from it !I used it and pecked around and found what works for me !! I like it... any finish doing a pipe tamper or a pen that took hours to set up I would not do I like instant for small items :O)and this imo is instant....[]

 

[Dario]

Just to bump this great thread [][]

BTW, Thanks James...I am probably one of those who pestered you about your finishing technique [:I]

 

[Fangar]

Dario,

You know that you are more than welcome.

Cheers,

Fangar

 

[Dario]

James,

Ever considered having this added to the library? I am sure it will help a lot of penmakers in the future as well. Just hate for it to get lost after a while.

 

[gerryr]

This should definitely be added to the library along with Wayne's Enduro method. These like this should be easily accessible.

 

[Fangar]

Sounds like a good idea. I am going to write up a better one with photos when I get some time.

Fangar

 

[shawn]

What is the difference in using Hut Plastic Polish, and the Hut Perfect Pen Polish (PPP). I have been using the Hut PPP with pretty good results. Would the Plastic Polish provide a better finish? Is the plastic polish more durable then the PPP?
Thanks
Shawn

 

[wdcav1952]

Shawn,

You will get disagreement on the subject of finishing, so understand that what follows is my opinion only.

The Hut Plastic Polish or similar products including automotive swirl remover are used to polish a finish such as CA, lacquer, or Enduro to name a few.

When I started, I used the PPP as a final step. The results were acceptable, but do not last as a finish. Check a pen on which PPP was the last thing used after a month or two of use. Mine at least, were dull and unacceptable.

The best idea, (my opinion, remember) is to get your wood or acrylic pen finished with MicroMesh until the surface is as close to flawless as you can get it. If acrylic, polish with a plastic polish and you are good to go. If wood, follow Fangar's or Don Ward's CA technique, or Wayne's Enduro technique. Once finished and MicroMeshed to a high gloss, lightly buff with a plastic polish for that final high shine.

OK, next we talk about Ren Wax or TSW. [8D]

I did mention that this is my opinion, didn't I?[]