MM Question

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Wright

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Apr 15, 2012
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Jasper, Alabama
How many of you cross sand MM after using each grit. I do. Is this an unnecessary step? My process: After cross sanding I turn lathe off, dry and clean blank, do the same on all grits.
 
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BSea

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I always cross sand. It does make a difference. I also cross sand before finishing. I know some people don't worry too much about sanding past 320, but I go up to 600, and sometimes 1000 with cross sanding. It may be overkill, but that's what I do.
 

Simplex

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Aug 22, 2010
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Mather, Ca
I've never really done much cross-sanding. I've been successful just doing the MM and then putting it on the buffing wheel to remove the remaining scratches that were not removed.
 

KenV

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Oct 28, 2005
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Juneau, Alaska.
Another option is to use MM with a soft interface pad and the angle grinder while the lathe is turning slowly -- Use the same soft interface pad and pad to polish with plastic polish -

If you have a doubt -- use a 3-5 power magnification to look at your pen barrell. Then think about what is "good nuf"
 

TerryDowning

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Apr 27, 2011
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Newhall, CA
And yet another option for wood
"Burnishing" after initial sanding
I sand to 400 cross sanding between grits and then burnish the wood. This increases the chatoyance of the wood by closing the grain off and flattening the fibers.

Then on to final finish of choice. CA, friction, laquer, whatever,

Then sand with 600 wet (Finish allowing) then buff
 

DSurette

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Feb 3, 2011
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Ooltewah, TN
I cross sand after every grit. Both with Abranet and MM. It is much easier to do it and maybe not need it than to skip it and find out after finishing that you should have done it.
 

Wright

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Apr 15, 2012
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Jasper, Alabama
Like Ken said, a 3-5 power magnification will show scratches the eye can't see. After I cross sand every grit, I finish with Novus 2. I don't use a angle grinder as Ken mentioned ( but that is a good idea) I use a micro cloth with Novus 2 turn the lathe down as low as it will go and polish 10 - 15 minutes. It makes a big difference.
 

BSea

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Dec 28, 2009
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Little Rock, Arkansas
And yet another option for wood
"Burnishing" after initial sanding
I sand to 400 cross sanding between grits and then burnish the wood. This increases the chatoyance of the wood by closing the grain off and flattening the fibers.
I almost always forget to do this. But it does improve the look.
 

TerryDowning

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Apr 27, 2011
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Location
Newhall, CA
Material to burnish with depends on a few things, I typically choose a wood softer than what I'm turning so I don't accidently mar what my work. Some people go the other way around or even use the flat part of a lathe chisel or the back of a gouge.

Example when I burnish Oak, I use Pine. Just press the flat part of a scrap against (I use a scrap of 1 x pine, I have also used the back of a gouge on spindles) the piece with the lathe spinning. Apply light to moderate pressure enough to work the grain not enough to scratch your work or take it off center. but a little more pressure than scraping. You will see the difference as soon as you start. It does take some practice to get a feel for it and get the burnishing even, this is an old school technique before the advent of micro abrasives. I like because I'm cheap and also like the results.

The pen in this thread was sanded to 400 then burnished with pine before CA applied. After CA (I can't remember how many applications) wet sanded 400 to 800 cross sanding and cleaning between grits and the buffed with Tripoli and White Diamond, I have since added a blue plastic polishing compound after the white to my buffing routine.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/not-too-bad-scrap-96619/
 
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