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Old 09-17-2016, 09:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Micromesh Grades

Does anyone know what the 6000, 8000, and 12000 Micromesh grades equate to in sandpaper grit? They're missing from all the charts I can find. I edited the chart to make it easier to read.

http://micro-surface.com/images/prod...ationCClit.pdf
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Here's a chart I have that shows grit equivalents for the 6000 and 8000 but just says sub micron for the 12000 , hope this helps

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Old 09-17-2016, 10:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Thanks, that does help. Maybe there is no equivalent grit for the 12000.
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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I have no idea what the comparable grit is. I read years ago that it is finer than Novus #3, but not as fine as Novus #2. For those that use Novus, like myself, it's a good tidbit of knowledge.
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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An approximate rule-of-thumb is to multiply the MMX grit by about 7 to get the MMR grit.
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Old 09-17-2016, 06:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TattooedTurner View Post
I have no idea what the comparable grit is. I read years ago that it is finer than Novus #3, but not as fine as Novus #2. For those that use Novus, like myself, it's a good tidbit of knowledge.
That's interesting. My polishing regimen is all 9 grades of Micromesh, then Novus 3 and 2, followed by PlastX.
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qquake View Post
That's interesting. My polishing regimen is all 9 grades of Micromesh, then Novus 3 and 2, followed by PlastX.
It's probably been 15 years since I read the article, give or take a few years. I'm thinking it was in Fine Scale Modeler but I could be wrong. If I recall correctly, it was a gameplan on getting the best shine for a natural metal finish, possibly with Alclad paints, which requires glass smooth plastic to start with, and instructed how to use micromesh pads and Novus to achieve a realistic aluminum or other metal finish on aircraft. The main thing that stuck with me was it stating not to use #3 for this reason. I suppose the author could have been wrong, but I haven't used #3 since on models except for buffing the canopies, and I haven't used it on any pens. I think I'll do a test when I have the time, finishing to 12,000 on two pieces then only polishing one with #3 to see if I can tell a difference.
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