Micro Mesh Question

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Bowl Slinger

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
591
Location
Seattle, WA
I cross sand with every other stage. It does make a remarkable difference. As you are admiring your creations, your eyes follow the radial lines and you cant easily see the linear lines. After the12000 stage if you do not linear sand you can see the fine lines under magnification and especially under florescent lighting.
 

Wright

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
628
Location
Jasper, Alabama
Yes, I meant sanding with the grain. It is really not that much more time involved, I work slow anyway. It means more to my that when a pen leaves my shop I know that I have a quality pen that will last and the customer is happy. Do any of you use Novus 1 for a final polish on Resin and is there any better? What about Buffing after final polish?
 

azamiryou

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2010
Messages
1,015
Location
Silver Spring, MD USA
Yes, I meant sanding with the grain. It is really not that much more time involved, I work slow anyway. It means more to my that when a pen leaves my shop I know that I have a quality pen that will last and the customer is happy.

The vast majority of customers won't know the difference. If it's about making the customers happy and saving time, skip the longitudinal sanding.

For me - and from what you say, I think for you - my goal is a little loftier: I want me to be happy with the finish. And I find I'm happier with it if I do longitudinal sanding between every grit.

For you, I say: experiment. Make two pens, one right after the other, from the same wood and same conditions except the sanding. Then do one one way, and do one the other, and compare the results under whatever lighting and magnification you care about. If one is unsatisfactory, you can quickly re-do it using the other process. Either way, you'll have your answer.
 

GoatRider

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2011
Messages
417
Location
Maple Grove, Minnesota
I think the biggest reason to do longitudinal sanding is to make sure you've used each grit for long enough. Sand longitudinal with one grit, then you circular sand with the next grit until you can't see the longitudinal scratches, then sand longitudinal with that grit.

Anyways, I've never used MM, I sand down to 1200 then use jeweler's rouge or one step. That works fine for acrylic, but I think I can still see some scratches on trustone. Next time I do trustone I'll try MM.
 
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