Micro Mesh?

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WoodChucker

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I know they make special sanding kits for plastics, but does Micro Mesh work good also? Or is that just used for wood? Thanks!

R.T.
 
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Fred in NC

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The way I understand it, MicroMesh was originally developed to remove scratches from acrylic aircraft windshields. So yes, it is good for plastics.

When working with acrylics and resins, I much prefer to use wet/dry automotive sandpaper, and I wet sand all the way to 2500 grit. This is approximately the equivalent of 8000 MicroMesh. The plastic needs to be cleaned after each grit to remove all the slurry from that grit, otherwise you will still be sanding with it.

At this point the plastic looks real shiny. A final step can be done with 12000 MM, or with any other plastic polish, or a good finish wax. (ask Pres. Lou about it ...)

I use MicroMesh, but not very often.
 

WoodChucker

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OK thanks Fred, that was a good explanation and answers all the other questions I had waiting for whoever responded. [:D]

R.T.
 

Fred in NC

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R.T. If you are planning to work a lot with plastics, then it would be worth getting some real plastic scratch remover and polish. I use Novus.

By the way, one reason for using MicroMesh is that there is a cushion between the abrasive and the backing, which is easier on the surface. This makes it a little better than the wet/dry sheets, and also a little more expensive. Remember, the grits are not numbered the same way. 2000 wet/dry is about 6000 MM.
 

WoodChucker

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Thanks Fred, I'll pick up some and see how it works. I like the plastic stuff, you really get some wild looking pens that catch the eye.

R.T.
 

Tom McMillan

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Yes Tom, I just wash mine with dishsoap and a fingernail brush and let it air dry---guess some others wash in the pocket of their jeans---guess some do it different ways---hopefully they'll respond. And yes there is a x-reference---hopefully someone can help you with that---I have it hanging in my shop, but not sure where it is online.
 

Fred in NC

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We need a grit chart in our reference section. This link has a chart, plus useful MM info:

http://www.ss-sci.com/micromesh.htm

Please note that MM grits start at 1500, which is the equivalent of 400 sandpaper grit. So to me it makes no sense to sand to 600, and then start with the 1500 MM, which is same as 400 grit.
 
G

Guest

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There are a lot of suppliers including Micromesh site itself.
I think Bev got it from here,
http://www.internationalviolin.com/searchpage.cfm?category=SHEETS&expanded=13%2C31%2C37%2C4%2C75&stype=cat
 
G

Guest

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I don't know if any one else noticed this, but on the site it says that along with the numbered backing, each sheet is color coded.
I have never had a set with all sheets in different colors.
Now I am wondering if I am getting the "REAL THING"
or am I getting "factory seconds"
 
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Yes Eagle, that is where I got mine. I liked it because I could cut it into 2" X 6" strips and made it easier to use. It really goes such a long ways. I've even put it in a mesh bag and washed it with the dark clothes to revive it! Frugel you know!
 

jkirkb94

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My local Woodcraft has MM in small foam pads like the Pen Finishing Kits that several companies carry for acrylics and corian. Grits from 1500 to 12000. Same price as the Pen Finishing Kits. Haven't seen it yet on the web site. My store has had them for about a week. Hope to try them out today. Kirk [8D]
 

ashaw

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MM is the way to go. I have been using the same pads for a year now and they are just like new. I have turn little over 200 pens in plastic. My market favors plastic over wood.

I sand to 12000 mm next use EEE, then Novis 2, finally auto compound. It sound like a lot of setup but I get a scrath free finish.
 
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