Maximizing Pens Plus Finish

[Dan Masshardt]

I just ordered the wax to try. Normally I haven't. Haven't really tried.

 

[Gary Zakian]

Same topic but slight tangent.

I will be finishing a few pens with PP, and the customer would like to have the names of the recipients laser engraved on the pens.

Question - do I have the engraving done first, BEFORE any sanding? AFTER all sanding but before putting final few coats of PP on? OR FINISH completely and then engrave?

I would appreciate any thoughts or comments.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Same topic but slight tangent. I will be finishing a few pens with PP, and the customer would like to have the names of the recipients laser engraved on the pens. Question - do I have the engraving done first, BEFORE any sanding? AFTER all sanding but before putting final few coats of PP on? OR FINISH completely and then engrave? I would appreciate any thoughts or comments. Thanks in advance.

Finish completely then engrave.

 

[Gary Zakian]

Thanks for the input Dan. I will proceed accordingly.

Gary

 

[mmayo]

I have all of the doctor's workshop stuff and WANT it to works for me. I like the results immediately after I finish or on the lathe. The next day, not so much... The glossy finish I liked is now a semigloss at best. Smooth to the touch and still pretty, but not glossy enough.

Any ideas?


PS - thanks Dan for this thread

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I have all of the doctor's workshop stuff and WANT it to works for me. I like the results immediately after I finish or on the lathe. The next day, not so much... The glossy finish I liked is now a semigloss at best. Smooth to the touch and still pretty, but not glossy enough. Any ideas? PS - thanks Dan for this thread

Good observation. The aspects I recommend experimenting with are

1. - make sure you really heat it up on the last coat.

2. Consider leaving it for a day or more (don't handle the finish) before assembly.

Also, some woods seem to leave a glossier result than others. Well stabilized or very dense woods are best. Others can work well enough too.

 

[SkookumPens]

I have been using all of the Doctor's finishes and am very happy with them. I use his walnut oil first and then his Pens Plus on most of my pens. I use it on all my pens for the troops. I have more then 1000 pens I have completed for them. We also use it at Woodcraft when we do the pens for the troops.
Craig Chatterton
Puyallup, WA

 

[VotTak]

I noticed that PP works on very dense woods like cocobolo. Tried it on stabilized bog oak and it is working nice as well. Works well on even non stabilized BO. But fails on BOW. On Bow it looks bad at least for me. Maybe I need to change something in the way I apply it. Still experimenting.

 

[Souths1der]

When you're applying it, what's the best way to generate the most heat? I've tried two different ways to apply:

1. After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and wrap the paper towel over the top and kind of pinch top and bottom together while moving back and forth rapidly. I generate a ton of heat but I found on some types of wood this could produce some small but visible marks all around the blank.

2. After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and keep moving the towel rapidly underneath the blank for about a minute. This eliminated the small marks that would sometimes show up in certain woods, but I can't really feel any heat in my fingers during the process. If I touch the blank when I'm done with each coat it does feel warm though.

Also, how long should I spend on each coat. I've been doing probably 45 seconds to a minute with the lathe at 3k.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

When you're applying it, what's the best way to generate the most heat? I've tried two different ways to apply: 1. After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and wrap the paper towel over the top and kind of pinch top and bottom together while moving back and forth rapidly. I generate a ton of heat but I found on some types of wood this could produce some small but visible marks all around the blank. 2. After wiping it on from underneath with the lathe spinning at 1k, I speed it up over 3k and keep moving the towel rapidly underneath the blank for about a minute. This eliminated the small marks that would sometimes show up in certain woods, but I can't really feel any heat in my fingers during the process. If I touch the blank when I'm done with each coat it does feel warm though. Also, how long should I spend on each coat. I've been doing probably 45 seconds to a minute with the lathe at 3k.

Closer to number 2 for me. Use a little more pressure. I spend less time per coat. The last 2 coats are what I spend time on getting relight and heated up.

 

[BKelley]

I use Dr Woodshop Pen+ on 90% of the wood pens I turn. I do veer from the instructions a little and I get a nice Finnish. The gloss is not as high as CA, but I have always leaned toward a nice sheen in lieu of high gloss on wood. If I want a plastic looking Finnish, then I'll use an acrylic blank. AAA+ for Dr. Woodshop.
Ben

 

[TOF]

I just ordered the wax to try. Normally I haven't. Haven't really tried.

Dan how is the wax working out for you? What are your opinions? I just picked up some Pens Plus and trying this out.

Thanks

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Dan how is the wax working out for you? What are your opinions? I just picked up some Pens Plus and trying this out. Thanks

as far as the wax goes I can take it or leave it. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't.

It is not a make or break thing for me.

 

[TonyL]

You didn't ask me...but I used to be down on the wax. However, I was not apply it with another heat (rpms). I now apply it very warmly and I have found it to add slightly more shine and I am assuming some protection. I didn't mean to answer for Dan (who turned me on to PP), I just want to help answer the question. I now use the wax all the time if I use PP. I hope this helps. I would be happy to send you some... a little goes a long way. Just PM me your address. When i don't use PP, I use Rejex synthetic wax ....amazing stuff and excellent long term protection (and if you wait 12 hours between coats, it will build extra layers.)

 

[Dan Masshardt]

You didn't ask me...but I used to be down on the wax. However, I was not apply it with another heat (rpms). I now apply it very warmly and I have found it to add slightly more shine and I am assuming some protection. I didn't mean to answer for Dan (who turned me on to PP), I just want to help answer the question. I now use the wax all the time if I use PP. I hope this helps. I would be happy to send you some... a little goes a long way. Just PM me your address. When i don't use PP, I use Rejex synthetic wax ....amazing stuff and excellent long term protection (and if you wait 12 hours between coats, it will build extra layers.)

Great comment tony!

You are the reason I keep experimenting with the wax!

Do you really heat it up like the polish or just 'warm?'

Multiple applications or 1?

 

[TonyL]

Just getting back from Nashville...sorry for the delay. Not as warm as when applying the PP. However, here's how I know...it starts to shine slightly more than the plain PP finish (not be silly or sarcastic). As soon as I see if become incrementally shinier/more reflective, I stop. I only apply one thin coat. I really didn't like it at first, then called and asked whomever markets/invented it and once he told me what to do. It worked as advertised (at least for me).

 

[Russ Hewitt]

Longevity

What is the longevity of the PP compared to CA/BLO? I would hate to have to start refinishing customers pens after a year because it does not hold up. I am hoping for good news because I really hate the smell of curing CA:frown:

 

[TonyL]

I have not experienced it lasting nearly as long as CA or CA/BLO. However, I don't think it is intended to perform or finish the same way. Dan M. could probably tell you more.

 

[Russ Hewitt]

Are there any finishes that are long lasting besides CA/BLO??????

 

[Wildman]

Not sure will get a definitive answer because comparing a film forming finish (CA) to friction finish (shellac, walnut oil, wax). The big unknown is how the finished item will be used daily.

A general rule of thumb is use the finish that provides protection and durability to the wood surface.

How durable and protective does the finish need to be?

Since talking wood pens we know the Intended use. What we don't know how much or how little that pen will get used. So whether use penetrating or film finish no way to tell how that finish behaved after leaving us.

Is health and safety a concern you and ultimate end user?

Most finishing material require we wear some PPE. People with allergies or oppose finishes that outgas forever might have concerns.

Do you want a natural wood look?

Well many finishes will provide that but, some impart an amber hue and not stop woods that darken or lighten with age over time.

Finishing products come in gloss, semi gloss, or satin sheens, discussion gets murky whether want the look and feel of wood or plastic look and feel a finish provides.

How will you apply the finish and what is your skill level?

Only you can answer that!

Bottom line wood species and characteristic, personal choice makes selecting a wood finishes all about compromises no one finishing material will work for every piece of wood.

 

[mmayo]

Dan

Once again, thanks for this thread. I have been using BLO/CA to finish 250 cedar plugs and I feel I have somewhat mastered that technique. Today, I had a bunch of pens to turn and finish and decided to try BOTH 4 coats BLO/CA and finish up with three coats of PP. Heat was generated during each coat of either finish. Here is a photo (cellphone) of the pen barrels right after finishing. I was hoping for more wood grain and texture especially the lower 5 pens made from the rail of a sport fishing boat.

I see a nice shine and feel the wood grain, but also a smooth finish pleasing to my fingers. I still like CA and will probably use it for my mission critical pens, but these look very nice.

 

[TonyL]

They do look very nice.

 

[southernclay]

Has anyone been top coating their Pens Plus finished pens with a wax i.e Ren Wax or others? Seems like the durability is proving to be pretty strong but a wax coating may be a nice addition especially for some of the softer woods. I think paste wax is the only wax I have but haven't ever put it on a pen.

 

[TonyL]

I have used (and still have a ton of) of the microabrasive wax that is recommended after applying the PP. It does work when you allow heat to build, but I have not found it to last after a few weeks of regular pen use.

 

[Jimmykoko2]

This is a very informative discussion. I'm interested in trying the Pens Plus finish. Who are you using for a source? I see it on Amazon and also on the manufacturer's website. Final price for both including shipping runs from $26.50 to $27.00.

 

[TonyL]

I have it and if you send me your address, I send you some, including the micro abrasive wax. Just make sure you watch several of the videos. Both the PP and wax requires heat.

Peachtree WW or Woodcraft have it on sale this week in case you want a full bottle.

 

[stuckinohio]

I don't see much talk about the Dr's High build friction polish. How does this compare to that product?

I am hit or miss with CA finishes. Sometimes awesome results, sometimes terrible with hazing, cracking, clouding.

I have craft coat coming now, but I am really curious about this finish and the high build finish.

Any comparisons from someone who has used both?

Thanks in advance,

Lewis

 

[maxwell_smart007]

what is pens plus? Shellac-based wax finish?

 

[stuckinohio]

I think so, along with walnut oil and a wax.

 

[stuckinohio]

Pens Plus

web page link to product.