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Old 06-11-2014, 05:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Holy crap that's a lot of work! Although this has been answered 300 times under "search", why not start with W/D 600 and move to MM? Little Hut and have a nice pen day. Once your finish is on...it's on.
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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When you sand with the 400, stop the lathe and wipe the blank with a rag and look at the blank. The sanded areas should have a frosted look, the areas not frosted will need more sanding.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I switched from paper towels to the blue shpp towels and have not had ridges like that since. I also noticed that the CA does not flash off as fast when using shop towels vs. paper towels.

Since changing, I can start sanding at a higher grit almost everytime because there is a smoother finish.
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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I was having the same problems with ca glue now all i use is chestnut sanding sealer leave for 1hour then look wire wool then chestnut friction polish you get a fantastic shine
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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A couple of thoughts.

I find the CSUSA finish CA to be the best and smoothest

Sometimes the wood isn't completely dry and the heat from the finishing process/CA curing will further dry the wood and cause those ripples.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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You may want to start out the sanding process with a piece of wood backing up the sandpaper. I use this to remove minor ripples in the barrel. Sandpaper by itself will not remove the ridges. Applying more CA will only cause it to accumulate on the ridges quicker.
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Old 07-09-2014, 12:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Default Ripples

Look up "Liquid Taylor rings on a cylinder" . These rings form when a liquid is on the surface of a spinning cylinder. It is a major problem on any coating operation that is spinning. The thinner or less viscous a material is, the more likely they will form. The more liquid on the surface, the more likely. The free or open to the air, the more likely they will form.
Spin a beach ball in the pool and watch the water creap up to the outside and fly off.

I find that a drop of boiled linseed oil on the blue paper towel before a drop of medium CA works best for me. I think it lets me keep the rag on the surface longer. The rag forms a hard sheen that knocks down the rings but does not stick.
Also, keeping the rag on and moving it back and forth quickly helps keep the ridges from forming. If the wood is wet, that may accelerate
I know that sometimes I do things and don't understand why they work so my imagination comes up with it's own reasons. Smile. I did this for a while with pens until i REALIZED i WAS DEALING WITH THE SAME ISSUES AT WORK. I just had to understand the connection. I am still learning.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Dump the friction polish!
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:48 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Seriously, go get some craft foam at michael's or HL... or even wally world. You use less CA, since half of it doesn't soak in like a paper towel, and it doesn't get hot or smoke.
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