Marks on CA Finish, Anyone Seen This Before? - International Association of Penturners
     International Association of Penturners
Pens for Service Members
 
Support The IAP

Go Back   International Association of Penturners > Community Forums > Finishing
  Forgot Password
Register FAQ Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


Logged on members can hide ads!

Welcome to penturners.org!

You've found the home of The International Association of Penturners. You are currently viewing our site as a guest, which gives you limited access to view discussions, photos, and library articles.

Consider joining our community today. You'll have full access to all of our content, be able to enter our contests, find local chapters near you, and post your questions and share your experience with our members all over the world.

Membership is completely free!!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-25-2014, 10:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
GeoWade's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Waipahu, Hawaii
Posts: 17
Photos: 0

Default Marks on CA Finish, Anyone Seen This Before?

Hello all! I am a relative newbie, having made only about 20 pens, the last half dozen or so have had a CA finish. Take a look at a picture of one I just completed. I am starting to see these ridges on the finished pen. I don't think this is a sanding issue, but I'm not sure. My only guess is that I'm not smoothing the CA enough when I apply it. Has anyone seen this before, and if so, know what causes it?

Here's my process:

1. Sand with oxide sandpaper to 600 grit, both on the lathe and then length wise to remove circular sanding marks.
2. Apply Mylands Sanding Sealer.
3. Apply three coats of BLO / CA. (Dot of BLO on paper towel, then drop of medium CA, rub on blank while lathe is spinning. Wait for it to dry. Use accelerator on final coat.)
4. Sand with Micromesh wet.
5. Apply Meguiars scratch x remover.
6. Apply Mylands friction polish to finish.

Appreciate any guidance you might have on this one. The pen still looks good - I wouldn't hesitate it give it as a gift - but it does feel a little rough in the worst section, which I put towards the middle of the pen. I can only see the error if I look at the finish in the right light.

This is a koa wood / kou wood combo pen. I specialize in locally-obtained Hawaiian woods. Feel free to check out my Etsy store for more examples: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlohaPens.

Thanks, Wade
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
Likes: (1)
GeoWade is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 05-25-2014, 11:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 2,284
Photos: 34

Default

After applying the CA , you need to go back through the sandpaper grits before using the Micromesh . If the CA has gone on smoothly , you can probably start at 400 , but looking at your photo I think I would start with 320 or 240 .
1080Wayne is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 05-25-2014, 11:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
Dan Masshardt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Mechanicsburg, PA
Posts: 4,794
Photos: 0

Default

Yeah, micromesh will never sand down those high spots

In my opinion, both of the mylands products aren't doing a thing on a ca finish The polish isn't a bad final step - I use something similar (novus) as well
Dan Masshardt is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Advertisement
Old 05-25-2014, 11:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Oak Creek WI
Posts: 570
Photos: 0

Default

Medium and thick CA can at times be applied too thick leading to less than smooth appearances. These must be sanded smooth, you can use MM if you start at a coarser grit.

Less CA applied each time or using thin CA can help prevent this problem.
Likes: (3)
wouldentu2? is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 05-26-2014, 12:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
GeoWade's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Waipahu, Hawaii
Posts: 17
Photos: 0

Default Thanks!

Thanks to all of you for the speedy replies. I'll try putting on a little less and then sanding with aluminum oxide paper again before the MM.

And copy on the Mylands. Honestly, I don't think it's doing that much, but I will admit the pens have a different feel after the Mylands friction polish finish. Nothing I can quantify, but there is a difference, to me anyways.
Likes: (1)
GeoWade is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 05-26-2014, 12:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
plano_harry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Plano, TX 75093
Posts: 1,933
Photos: 4

Default

After CA use 400 wet (I prefer Arbranet open mess) to level the CA ridges. The wet keeps from overheating the CA. don't over-do this step. After lathe off longitudinal sanding, you should not see any shiny low spots. If you do a little more lathe on and lathe off sanding should get rid of the remaining spots. You are then ready to repeat with 600 - again don't over-do, you are only trying to remove the 400 longitudinal scratches. Once you have a nice, ridge-less, satin finish, work through your micromesh, again I recommend wet to keep from burning the CA, but some don't like to use water on wood. I have never had a problem, especially if you use delrin bushing eliminator cones for the CA application step.
__________________
Harry
plano_harry is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 05-26-2014, 12:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
lorbay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: BC. Canada
Posts: 2,968
Photos: 134

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoWade View Post
Hello all! I am a relative newbie, having made only about 20 pens, the last half dozen or so have had a CA finish. Take a look at a picture of one I just completed. I am starting to see these ridges on the finished pen. I don't think this is a sanding issue, but I'm not sure. My only guess is that I'm not smoothing the CA enough when I apply it. Has anyone seen this before, and if so, know what causes it?

Here's my process:

1. Sand with oxide sandpaper to 600 grit, both on the lathe and then length wise to remove circular sanding marks.
2. Apply Mylands Sanding Sealer.
3. Apply three coats of BLO / CA. (Dot of BLO on paper towel, then drop of medium CA, rub on blank while lathe is spinning. Wait for it to dry. Use accelerator on final coat.)
4. Sand with Micromesh wet.
5. Apply Meguiars scratch x remover.
6. Apply Mylands friction polish to finish.

Appreciate any guidance you might have on this one. The pen still looks good - I wouldn't hesitate it give it as a gift - but it does feel a little rough in the worst section, which I put towards the middle of the pen. I can only see the error if I look at the finish in the right light.

This is a koa wood / kou wood combo pen. I specialize in locally-obtained Hawaiian woods. Feel free to check out my Etsy store for more examples: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlohaPens.

Thanks, Wade
Why sanding sealer ?? If you use thin CA it is a sealer.
Ditch the BLO and just use a paper towel that does not smoke when you put CA on it.
I only use thin CA and my final coat is like glass, before I start sanding.
Lin
__________________
"If you come to a fork in the road Take It."
Yogi Berra.
lorbay is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 05-26-2014, 02:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
fantasticalwoodworks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Calif.
Posts: 29
Photos: 0

Default marks on ca finish

Here is my method and I must say everyone has a method that works well for them. I stabilize all my wood then turn and sand to 400 grit I apply ca to what ever depth looks good to me then sand again with 400 grit until there no shinny spots that will take care of all your high spots then mm to 12000 dry AT ABOUT 800 RPM any faster could cause your ca to roll and cause uneven areas then I polish with novis # 3 then # 2 the finish will be very wet looking. Again the key is to sand to the point that there is no shiny spots with out removing all the ca before sanding with mm Good Luck
__________________
Live to turn and Turn to expose the hidden beauty within
Likes: (2)
fantasticalwoodworks is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 06-11-2014, 03:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 34
Photos: 0

Default

When I first started, I to got those spiral ridges on occasion and I found that I was applying too much medium in a single coat and moving up and down the spinning blank too fast with my applicator.

I now apply 2 coats of thin at the slowest speed my lathe will go to seal the blank. I use blue shop paper towels as they don't accelerate the CA like white paper towels seem to.

Then I apply 5, 6, or 7 coats of medium CA. Again, lathe as slow as it will go (I have a delta midi lathe and I think it goes down to 250 rpm if I'm not mistaken).

I apply a puddle on the blue shop towel applicator that is about half the size of a dime. Then I apply firm pressure while I move up and down the blank twice for each coat (e.g. left bushing -> right bushing -> left bushing -> right bushing). With the blue shop towel applicator, you don't have to hurry with the application. Each swipe of the pen blank in either direction I take about 1 second.

I also remove the bushings when I apply the CA and make sure I swipe off the edge of the barrel in each direction (similar to how you always spray beyond the end of a piece when spray painting).

I check each coat to see if I developed any ridges and if I did, I knock them off with 400 abranet before adding any more coats. Any more I don't have to do this though.

It's a "feel" thing I guess and just like everything else, the more you do the better you get.

The biggest thing for me was the change to blue shop towels and slowing down the swipes of the CA in each pass.

Hope this helps.
Likes: (1)
mightymavkev is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 06-11-2014, 03:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
Rick_G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bothwell, Ontario, Canada.
Posts: 1,916
Photos: 28

Default

What works for me, I sand the wood to 600 grit, then apply 2 coats of thin CA, mainly to soak in, seal and stabilize the surface of the wood. Then 6 - 8 coats of med. CA. Bounty paper towels seem to work best for me anyway. If I am in a hurry I hit the blank with a couple sprays of accelerator between coats of med. Ca. If I'm not in a hurry I just apply the CA and go watch TV till the next commercial then come back and put on another coat. After the last coat of CA I wet sand with 2000, 2500 and then 25000 grit automotive sandpaper. I then polish with a plastic polish. I do my wet sanding and polishing with the lathe running at > 2500 rpm.

I have also seen ridges like that show up after several months because not knowing any better I turned the pen with wood that was not dry enough and as it later dried I got the ridges along the grain lines.
__________________
Rick
I support
The Pens for Canadian Peackeepers Project
http://www.undergroundwoodworking.ca
Likes: (1)
Rick_G is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Related Content
Logged on members can hide ads
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
ca finish

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:23 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

Content Copyright © 2003-2016 by Penturners.org, LLC; All Rights Reserved
Terms Of Service   Acceptable Use Policy