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Old 08-08-2017, 08:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Went to the shop and took a good look at the blank. After much consideration, I decided to try the wet MM and turn at a low speed. Good idea to put an old towel on the lathe! Anyway, I went through all the MM strips, dried the blank and looked at it with a magnifying glass. The lines were, as some were correct in their diagnosis, in the wood! Evidently, I didn't sand with the grain enough. They are not real evident unless you really look close.
Will sand with the lathe turning and let the wood stand proud of the bushings and then sand down with the grain to the bushing size. I understand that there are those who turn with a skew and have little or no sanding. Got that on my list of things to learn.
Thanks to all for their replies as there is a lot of information that I can use in the future. Now....back to the shop to work on another blank.
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Old 08-08-2017, 04:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Hit the wood with some denatured alcohol or something prior to applying finish to really see any lines, etc that might be there. Obviously darker woods are going to show them more. 320 grit is usually plenty for hiding the sanding lines but if you ONLY sanded with the lathe running there are usually some circles that show up later and remind you to sand with the grain. A light touch is going to be better than a heavy hand. Pushing hard means scratching, not sanding. I've had my share of pens I had to turn/sand the finish off of and start over because of lines in the substrate. This last one I did with aluminum segments was a bear...
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talltim View Post
Well every one does it a little differently. We sand through 600 and go through the nine rounds of mm on the wood. Then apply the CA and go through the process again through the mm. Then buff with white diamond.

We do the parallel during the wood stage as well.

We only apply accelerator when using medium ca. and sometimes then prefer to apply patience instead.
I dont like to use Accelerator at all but some times I'm in a rush. I will apply 5 - 6 coats thin and let it self dry. Then 5 - 6 coats medium, usually allowing it to self dry then I go through all the spongy squares of the MM and check the finish under a Bausch and Lomb StereoMicroscope I purchased on ebay (old job habits dont die) to see how bad the scratches are. If need be I will refinish with the MM from about half way through the deck up.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Just for clarification information - I personally do not sand lengthwise. Rarely have. I don't have rings. ON the other hand, I have been working with wood since the '50's as a pre-teen. I learned how to sand out sanding marks even going cross grain. But that is from experience.

Without considerable experience, sanding with the grain is the utterly best way, but it is not an absolute to get sanding rings out. On many occasions, I use the sharp scraper chisel to produce SP 600+ like finishes without sanding rings. A large part of getting sanding rings out is using 400, 600, 800 equivalent SP and the use of "touch" and "feel" along with good eyesight and patience.
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Hank, could you show a photo of your scraper? I have one that is about one inch wide and has a radius on the cutting edge. Same thing? I seen several configurations of scrapers.
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