Lin Seed Oil

[WoodLM]

Has anyone ever used Lin Seed Oil on lighter colored woods under a CA finish? it was an idea i had as i was falling asleep last night. i am new to turning, so im not sure if it is even possible to Lay CA over an oil like that. thanks in advance!

 

[mredburn]

There are many threads on using BLO with CA both applied on the wood and then on the applicator with the CA? Most of them use the BLO abbreviation instead of boiled Linseed Oil

 

[jeff]

Here's a good opportunity to mention the fire hazard of boiled linseed oil.

The oil soaked rags (or for us, usually paper towels) are subject to spontaneous combustion. Tremendous heat is generated as the oil dries, and they can ignite.

Read and follow the safe handling instructions on the can!

 

[GaryMGg]

Following up on what Jeff stated, the fire hazards related to spontaneous combustion WRT Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) are well documented.
I've personally witnessed a balled up BLO soaked paper towel begin to smoke within several hours after use.
This URL to a woodworking site is illustrative of the dangers:
WoodNet Forums: WOW...read the spontaneous combustion thread and

Used carefully, there's no danger and BLO does a nice job of popping the grain on many woods.
Used carelessly, it's a recipe for disaster.

 

[brownsfn2]

I have used BLO of a lot of my wood pens. I apply it and then let it dry for some time before CA application. I think it makes the grain show more.

When I am finished with the paper towel I spread it out and lay it on the cement floor in my basement away from everything else. Once dry (At least 24 hrs) I can dispose of it in the trash outside safely.

 

[ALexG]

one question, is this applied to any kind of oil ie tung oil?, I would need to collect all the rags and paper towels left around. Is there anything else that can have a spontaneous combustion, sometimes between the dust collector and all the flammable material I have in my shed I feel like I'm working inside a time bomb

 

[TerryDowning]

Curing CA gets hot enough to smoke certain paper towel brands, Just about any oil on any wadded up rag/paper has a heating effect and can combust.

In my shop, oily rags and CA applicators (including paper towels) get laid out flat until dry to the touch nd room temperature, only then are they discarded. Never Crumple those rags when finished never just toss into the trash, make sure they are dry to the touch and cool before discarding.

Of curse, there's the gas from the lawn mower/chain saw, paint thinner (mineral spirits), alcohol, fine sawdust, what else?? sheesh now I have to go inventory.

 

[leehljp]

I have used BLO (boiled linseed oil) off and on since 2005 on my pens and under CA as a finish. In addition to BLO, I have used a few other oils to enhance the grain and bring out detail. With the lathe on, I will rub it for a minute or two to build up a bit of heat to help it cure faster.

There are some woods that I will not use it on -
• oily woods: they don't need it;
• holly: it makes white holly look antiqueish ivory;
• bloodwood: often turns it from a red/maroonish color to a slight burnt orange shade.
• most dyed blanks - changes the color on them

There are some BLOs that are VERY clear and may not do change the colors. Most of the BLOs that I have had had a slight umber shade to it but I have seen BLOs that were fairly clear.

 

[Wildman]

Have used Linseed oil on wood pen blanks before and after applying CA glue.

Used same procedure as Hank applying LO.

Stopped using LO because felt was an unnecessary step in finishing.

 

[TerryDowning]

Are we talking Linseed Oil or BOILED Linseed Oil BLO

Raw Linseed Oil takes almost forever to dry and cure. I would not use it in pen finishing as I typically like to use my pen in a reasonable amount of time after finishing (weeks is not reasonable)

 

[Wildman]

Sorry for confusion talking about BLO! Normally BLO dries between 24 and 48 hours and raw linseed oil can take days to more than a month. By applying few drops of BLO on rag or paper towel while blank spinning and getting some heat seems to work okay.

If want to speed up drying time for raw linseed oil cut with miners spirits, naphtha or turpentine.

Artist use stuff called stand oil (heated linseed oil) to mix their paints which dries much faster than raw linseed oil. Cannot find polymerized linseed oil product which also dries faster.

 

[edstreet]

Has anyone ever used Lin Seed Oil on lighter colored woods under a CA finish? it was an idea i had as i was falling asleep last night. i am new to turning, so im not sure if it is even possible to Lay CA over an oil like that. thanks in advance!

Yes I do it all the time. Yes it works good. Yes it will also do some very interesting effects that you can control.

I use old masters, I refuse to use other brands. Why? no other crap in there like petroleum distillates.

I also do hand friction polishing with it, on the lathe to, it will indeed be very dry very quick if you do it right like it SHOULD be done.

I also put another coat on with CA glue, it's mandatory and no CA finish is complete without BLO.

Ed

 

[Wildman]

Only Old Masters Linseed Oil product familiar with is used by artist to mix their paints. Do a search for cold pressed linseed/flaxseed oil will find many brands catering to artist and organic/health food people. It is true of walnut oil too!

These linseed, flaxseed, or walnut oil products may not contain metallic dryers or petro-chemicals, but other additives to keep from going rancid, fortified with victims, and flavor enhancers. Manufacturers do not always list all ingredients, or seed/nuts may not be cold pressed. Manufacturers also chemically treat flax seeds and walnuts and label it cold pressed.

Raw linseed and walnut oil will go rancid so store in refrigerator when not in use.

At one time artist heat treated their linseed oil by putting in a jar and exposed it to sunlight for few months. Artist wanted to speed up oil mixed paint drying time. Art supply stores also sell product known as Stand oil. Simply linseed oil heated on stove, not sure of temperatures but info is on the web.

Have posted before about using food grade mineral oil (non-drying oil) before applying CA glue and it worked as well as linseed or walnut oil.

There is also Old Masters 100% Tung Oil product on the market too!

 

[KenV]

"Stand Oil" is sold a True-Oil, Tried-And-True Oil, LinSpeed, and a few other names. Has been used as a gun stock finish for decades. No solvent nor dryers.

There are also stand oil heat polymerized versions of Tung Oil.

 

[Wildman]

Not sure, anyone wants to use Tru-oil or Tried & True oil finishes wanting to do a CA finish. These are good finishing products by themselves!

BIRCHWOOD CASEY TRU-OIL
56% mineral spirits, 33% Modified oil, and 11% linseed oil
No idea about this stuff ** OELs as Stoddard oil, *** OELs vegetable oil mist

Tried & True Oil from Tried & True Finishes sounds like oil or wiping varnish, while mentions linseed oil talks about containing beeswax and natural resin varnish.

Manufacturers of wood finishing products do not always disclose ingredient content of their products. It is true for artist and health food oil products too.

Any drying or semi drying oil can process through very expensive polymerization process. Will speed up drying and provide more luster to an oil finish.

Russ Fairfield wrote about different oils and oil finishes:
Russ's Corner: A WoodCentral Archive

Linseed, Tung, and Walnut oil classified as drying oils. By themselves will provide natural look of wood (matt-satin) finish. You cannot get a build film finishes give you no matter how many coats you apply. Tung oil finish provides the best protection, just do not be in a hurry to complete finishing process.

Mixing any of the three oils with mineral spirits, naphtha, or turpentine will speed up drying times and penetration. Think Sutherland & Wells sells a citrus thinner for same purpose of their polymerized Tung oil.