Inlay Kits -dye bleeding

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Johnny D

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Oct 18, 2016
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Just wondering if anyone is having trouble with the dye bleeding or fading in some of these laser cut inlay kits? I sand to 600 grit then micro sand with pads. After that I clean my blank with acetone to get all the dirt and sanding dust off it. Then I finish it with boiled linseed oil and ca.I had a piece that was black in my last kit, and it appeared to smudge slightly after finishing.
Am I doing something here that I should not be doing? I would appreciate any advice that the more experienced turners can give me. Thanks.
 
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RobS

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Jun 20, 2016
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Acetone is the likely culprit.
I abrenet to 600 then CA thin, then 5 or more CA med. then micro mesh to 12,000.
No bleeding seen.
 

Johnny D

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Oct 18, 2016
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I suspected the acetone, but wasn't sure. Do you clean your blanks with anything before finishing them?
 

jcm71

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May 5, 2011
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Chattanooga, TN
I have turned many inlayed pens, and I always clean with acetone before finishing. I have never had that problem. What kit (blank) and who did you buy it from?
 
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beck3906

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Aug 13, 2005
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Belton, TX 76513
One thing to do is to gently use extra-thin CA to soak into the white pieces to seal them before assembly. You don't want to over-do this as you can change the size of the white pieces.

Got this tip from Ken Nelson at Kallenshaan.
 

KenV

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Oct 28, 2005
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Juneau, Alaska.
Sanding dust bleeding from black to uncolored is much more likely than dye bleed.

Migration of sanding dust is the bane of segmented turners with ebony and holly being the classic case. Once dark dust migrates into the pores of light woods, success in removal is low.

Clean cuts with a skew or negative rake scraper followed by sealing the surface and filling the grain (I tend to use thin followed by medium CA) then sanding the sealer without going through the sealer and making fine migrating wood dust.

Use 10X magnification and the odds on bet is sanding dust.

Sealing with thin CA before final cuts helps some also.
 
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