Inlace Acrylesters
- Thread starter Johnny D
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Herb G
Member
Well, you are doing it correctly so far. You use micro mesh pads to finish them.
mecompco
Member
Not my favorite material to turn, but IA does finish up really nicely. I've been using my Magic Skew as of late and it seems to work fine using the 2" radius side carbide cutter. I use it in skew mode, and flat as a scraper. Light cuts are the order of the day, especially once you get close to final diameter. Take particular care around the ends--bad things happen really quickly if you have a catch there! If you're still getting pits and the diameter is getting down there, there's no shame in switching to paper. Just MHO.
Regards,
Michael
Regards,
Michael
thewishman
Member
If you turn the ends first, turning from the outside towards the center, you'll have better success. Got that tip from Ed Brown and it works well.
Skie_M
Member
I've turned some "chippy" acrylics before, like "Pot of Gold" and some of the other plastic blanks from PSI...
Michael has some good tips there, regarding the use of a carbide cutter .... approach the material dead on center with a negative rake angle and scrape away, after you get it pretty much rounded, and be careful around the edges of the blank. If it's still popping little divots into it once you get reasonably close to your final diameter, switch to wet-sanding with 150 or 220 grit paper on a wooden backer board to keep things reasonably squared up.
There's no shame in giving up your chisel if it just can't do the job with your level of skill ... after all, the objective is to get the job done no matter what you have to do. Once it's all done and finished and everybody's admiring the job you did, feel free to lie your butt off and tell us you did it all with the skew (or your tool of choice)! It's not like we were there to watch you through your trials and tribulations, lol!
Michael has some good tips there, regarding the use of a carbide cutter .... approach the material dead on center with a negative rake angle and scrape away, after you get it pretty much rounded, and be careful around the edges of the blank. If it's still popping little divots into it once you get reasonably close to your final diameter, switch to wet-sanding with 150 or 220 grit paper on a wooden backer board to keep things reasonably squared up.
There's no shame in giving up your chisel if it just can't do the job with your level of skill ... after all, the objective is to get the job done no matter what you have to do. Once it's all done and finished and everybody's admiring the job you did, feel free to lie your butt off and tell us you did it all with the skew (or your tool of choice)! It's not like we were there to watch you through your trials and tribulations, lol!
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I will also sand down the long edges of the blank before turning. It reduces the sharp projectiles when starting. I like the look, I just know I have to sand it smooth and start with lower grits and leave a few thousandths.\
Danny
Danny
I use a sanding jig because I blew to many with a barrel trimmer (even the carbide one). I will sharpen (and leather strop) my HSS roughing gouge at least 3 times per barrel and more for my skews especially as I approach the final dimensions. And I make sure that when I an use my skew that I am making shearing, not peeling cuts. I am sure there are faster/better and more efficient ways to go about it. I spin it at 2200 to 2500 rpms. That is just my way, having blown a dozen or so when I first started over two year ago. I didn't have much success with carbide, but may report enjoying excellent results.
I turn lots of inlace/Acrylester ..it's relatively inexpensive and sells at a premium (for me) given its finish.
Happy Turning!
I turn lots of inlace/Acrylester ..it's relatively inexpensive and sells at a premium (for me) given its finish.
Happy Turning!
All I've ever used for any type of acrylic or Tru-Stone are carbide cutters (too scared to try a skew)! I just turn at really really high rpm (around the 3200-3500 range) and take very small incremental cuts usually starting on the outsides and working inward. MicroMesh and some Meguiar's Plast-X to finish off.
KenV
Member
I find that for brittle blanks, shortening the length of the bevel helps. Instead of the bevel length being 1 1/2 the skew thickness, make the edge shorter towards 1 times the thickness.
This will make the skew less "grabby"
The Hunter Osprey or Hercules cup carbide cutters and shearing cuts let me work from the ends without chipping.
When you hear the Buzz of chipping, slow down your feed rate, thin cuts going slowly works better.
This will make the skew less "grabby"
The Hunter Osprey or Hercules cup carbide cutters and shearing cuts let me work from the ends without chipping.
When you hear the Buzz of chipping, slow down your feed rate, thin cuts going slowly works better.
its_virgil
Member
Yes, there are too many other nicer materials to use than to use the ones that are difficult. In lace acrylester is far from my favorite... actually I don't even use it. Do a good turn daily!
Don
Don
jimm1
Member
When it comes to the inlace acrylester blanks, my only advice is to chuck them in the can. Not worth the frustration of all the blowouts.
I turned some super brittle stuff that may have been inlace acrylester, my face was being pelted by little chips of the stuff most of the time. I ended up using a round nose scraper for the whole thing and it worked reasonably well.
Skie_M
Member
I picked up a cheap face shield from Harbor Freight for these .... I'm already legally blind without my glasses on ... I'ld rather not completely lose my vision.
The Falcons Quill
Member
Everyone covered most everything, most of all is don't get discouraged. I find that for the price they end up as some of the deepest colors and best shine ever.
MrKugelschreiber
Member
A lot of work but beautiful!
I have turned many of these, all with carbide. They are brittle and chip easy but like some have said the finished product is usually quite beautiful. Its my least favorite but for some pens they look the best.
I have turned many of these, all with carbide. They are brittle and chip easy but like some have said the finished product is usually quite beautiful. Its my least favorite but for some pens they look the best.
conandy
Member
I had good luck taking my Easy Wood Rougher (slightly rounded squarish carbide cutter) and tilting it up on edge at about 45 degrees for a shearing cut similar to a skew. Worked pretty well as long as the cutter was sharp and I didn't try to get very aggressive at all.
that said, don't think I'll do any more Acrylester blanks. Not a fan of uber brittle materials when there are so many other great materials to turn.
that said, don't think I'll do any more Acrylester blanks. Not a fan of uber brittle materials when there are so many other great materials to turn.
qquake
Member
The last "chippy" blank I turned was a money blank. It has real shredded paper money embedded in clear resin. Even though it turned like inlace acrylester, I had no choice. My friend had her heart set on it. It was very brittle, but after I turned it straight, I switched to 100 grit sandpaper to shape the ends. That worked fairly well. But I won't turn another, or any IA blanks, if I can help it. It's just not worth the effort or the blowouts to me.
