Hut Ultra Gloss vs. Meguiars

[qquake]

I used to use Hut Ultra Gloss with good results. But I ran out of it a while ago, and after reading about Meguiar's PlastX on here, I picked up a bottle locally. It seems to help, but I think I remember the Hut working better. Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with both? Does the PlastX leave any kind of coating or does it just polish? I've also read about Meguiar's 105 and 205. How are those different than PlastX?

 

[chartle]

Try this

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f52/plastic-polish-comparison-127073/

 

[jttheclockman]

Any and all plastic polishes will do. All work the same. When I started doing pens some 10 years ago the rage was MicroGloss cleaner and polisher. I still use it to this day and it works great. You do not hear much of this any more because everyone's fancy polishes. Heavy Damage Removal Kit - Acrylic & Plexiglass - Plastics Industry - Products By Application -MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC

Look for the cleaner and polish. I use the #1 cleaner and red bottle polish.

It is highly used in the plastic world. Along with micromesh pads.

One other product that gets little air time here any more is Renaissance wax. Used to control fingerprints after the polishing is done. I use this as well all the time. Amazon.com: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml): Home Improvement

Many times here the debate of using a polishing wheel was better than polishing on the lathe raged on. So many ways to get to the same finish line. Do what works for you.

 

[TonyL]

According to Meguiars tech support. PlastX is for plastic, headlamp covers, and (softer materials, and is less aggressive. 105 and 205 is for paint and clear coat. Even though we use on "plastics", I have found 105 and followed by 205 to work the best. I have PlastX, Huts, One Step, Flitz, Dr. Kirks, micro crystalline wax polish, all 3 Novus products, Turtle Wax Rubbing compound, 3M Finesse II, and another 3 or 4. I have test them individually, in combinations, and at different speeds. Nothing anymore scientific than viewing under a 10x loop.

Many, many, others achieve excellent results with the non-Meguiars products; I just can't.

 

[Skie_M]

I think I'm just addicted to the beautiful shine I get with PlastX followed by Turtle Wax Hard Surface wax ....

It seems to work on CA-finished woods, acrylics of all types, unfinished (unsealed) Alabaster ...

 

[qquake]

This wax?

https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/products/turtle-wax-performance-plus-super-hard-shell-wax-14-oz-paste

 

[TonyL]

For a "wax" - I use Rejex. It's used to protect (and shine) and reduce friction of autos, boats, aircraft. If you like a "wet and shiny" look...this will produce it. I am not saying that TurtleWax won't. Many good products out there.

 

[qquake]

You guys have given me lots of options. But I'm curious about Renaissance wax. I've heard about it since I started turning, but I have yet to try it. Should it be applied to the blank while it's spinning on the lathe like friction polish, or applied by hand?

 

[Skie_M]

This wax?

https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/products/turtle-wax-performance-plus-super-hard-shell-wax-14-oz-paste

Yeah ... that's the brand!

I actually went and got the liquid as well as the paste to try them both out. I'm finding I like the liquid version a bit better ... easier to open/apply. The results are the same.

You guys have given me lots of options. But I'm curious about Renaissance wax. I've heard about it since I started turning, but I have yet to try it. Should it be applied to the blank while it's spinning on the lathe like friction polish, or applied by hand?

Yes, the Meguiar's is applied like a friction polish. You get a small dab on your paper towel... I use the auto parts store style blue paper towels ... they're thick and tough. I fold it repeatedly till I get a long pad about an inch wide, and then cut it into half-inch to 3/4 inch strips. You use the applicator to apply it to your barrels as they are turning at low speed (to spread it around, not throw it off at you). Let it dry a little (10 to 20 seconds), and then start working it into your material. Use light to moderate pressure at first, till the haze comes off and you see the shine coming up, and then pinch the applicator around your pen barrel to provide friction as you increase the speed to high. After you're done, you can flip the applicator to a clean spot and do a light pass to remove any residue.

While it's still warm from that process, I get a fresh applicator and a dab of the Turtle Wax, and apply it to the barrels... This time while it's still spinning fast, but you can go from slow to fast as before. As the barrels are still warm from the previous activity, the wax gets to work pretty fast. Again, I pinch the applicator around the barrels to provide friction heat as it's spinning ... when the haziness is all gone and I can see my reflection in the barrels, I flip the pad to a clean area and do a light pass to remove any residue.

 

[jttheclockman]

You guys have given me lots of options. But I'm curious about Renaissance wax. I've heard about it since I started turning, but I have yet to try it. Should it be applied to the blank while it's spinning on the lathe like friction polish, or applied by hand?

Applied by hand. It is used in many museums to give a piece that finished look and helps control fingerprints. That is the main use for it. Will enhance a shine but will not upgrade a shine. I use it on all my pens.

 

[qquake]

I just got a can of Renaissance Wax, and applied it to a pen. I hope the odor fades, it's pretty smelly.

 

[jttheclockman]

I just got a can of Renaissance Wax, and applied it to a pen. I hope the odor fades, it's pretty smelly.

It does. Just remember all other polishes and waxes such as those car waxes smell too. Wear rubber gloves or those white cotton museum gloves