How much do you leave in thickness?

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Chromey

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I am starting to Turn between centers.....as a general guide how much excess do you leave before sanding blank.......I realize that mileage may vary.... I do use calipers (digital)
 
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epigolucky

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Depends on the tool. I almost exclusively use a skew, so I start my sanding at 400 grit and go finer from there. For acrylics and wood (finish with pens plus), I pretty much take it down to the measurements of the components with just some light sanding and then finishing.

For CA, i'll take down slightly past the measurements and build up the CA and sand to take down to measurements.
 

SteveG

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I use bushings in TBC mode, but only to get fairly close to finished diameter. Lathe tools: either carbide insert and/or skew (depends on the material).

For wood with CA finish I will typically take the blank right to the size of the hardware using tool, then start sanding with 400 grit taking blank to slightly undersize. Once the CA is applied and then fully buffed out and "Done", it will be slightly proud of the hardware, about .001"~.002" oversize.

For solid material w/no finish, I turn it to a diameter about .002" oversize (based on measurement of pen hardware), then sand starting at 400 (or 600) grit. When done, blank will be equal to, or minimally larger than pen hardware.

Note this final step: Since I target ending up slightly proud of the hardware. I will "break" the edge of the blank. Lay 400 grit flat on bench. Drag blank across the abrasive while holding it at an angle 10* off vertical. Turn blank while dragging which will yield a relieved edge all around blank end. This will feel good to the touch when inspecting the finished pen at the point where blank meets hardware. (Alternatively, for no-finish solid material, I might instead use the buffing wheel to accomplish the relieved edge on the blank end.)
 

Chromey

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I use bushings in TBC mode, but only to get fairly close to finished diameter. Lathe tools: either carbide insert and/or skew (depends on the material).

For wood with CA finish I will typically take the blank right to the size of the hardware using tool, then start sanding with 400 grit taking blank to slightly undersize. Once the CA is applied and then fully buffed out and "Done", it will be slightly proud of the hardware, about .001"~.002" oversize.

For solid material w/no finish, I turn it to a diameter about .002" oversize (based on measurement of pen hardware), then sand starting at 400 (or 600) grit. When done, blank will be equal to, or minimally larger than pen hardware.

Note this final step: Since I target ending up slightly proud of the hardware. I will "break" the edge of the blank. Lay 400 grit flat on bench. Drag blank across the abrasive while holding it at an angle 10* off vertical. Turn blank while dragging which will yield a relieved edge all around blank end. This will feel good to the touch when inspecting the finished pen at the point where blank meets hardware. (Alternatively, for no-finish solid material, I might instead use the buffing wheel to accomplish the relieved edge on the blank end.)

Thank you very much Steve :)
 

farmer

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thickness

I am starting to Turn between centers.....as a general guide how much excess do you leave before sanding blank.......I realize that mileage may vary.... I do use calipers (digital)

Ten to twenty thousands 15 to 25 coats.
And have never used a skew .
 
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magpens

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I use bushings in TBC mode, but only to get fairly close to finished diameter. Lathe tools: either carbide insert and/or skew (depends on the material).

For wood with CA finish I will typically take the blank right to the size of the hardware using tool, then start sanding with 400 grit taking blank to slightly undersize. Once the CA is applied and then fully buffed out and "Done", it will be slightly proud of the hardware, about .001"~.002" oversize.

For solid material w/no finish, I turn it to a diameter about .002" oversize (based on measurement of pen hardware), then sand starting at 400 (or 600) grit. When done, blank will be equal to, or minimally larger than pen hardware.

Note this final step: Since I target ending up slightly proud of the hardware. I will "break" the edge of the blank. Lay 400 grit flat on bench. Drag blank across the abrasive while holding it at an angle 10* off vertical. Turn blank while dragging which will yield a relieved edge all around blank end. This will feel good to the touch when inspecting the finished pen at the point where blank meets hardware. (Alternatively, for no-finish solid material, I might instead use the buffing wheel to accomplish the relieved edge on the blank end.)

Steve .... don't you mean off horizontal here ?
 

TonyL

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Just enough for my finger nail to catch the barrel....but I like my pens to err on the under-turned side. This leaves me just proud of the hardware (thousandths) or even.
 

magpens

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I'm like you, Tony. I like my finished blanks to be *just* proud of the hardware ... about one-half to one thousandth bigger.
 

SteveG

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Quote Mal: Steve .... don't you mean off horizontal here ?


Mal, if you stand a blank up on end on the bench, it is vertical. If you tip it slightly, it will be a few degrees "OFF THE VERTICAL", which is what I do. It is a light touch, fine abrasive action, and takes the sharp edge away without showing on the finished surface of the barrel. Try it, you will see what I mean. This does not show up as a gap between the barrel and the hardware. :)
 

magpens

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Ahhhh .... gotcha, Steve !!! . That was not at all clear the first time round !!

Thanks for clarifying.
 
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