Help, not sure what I'm doing wrong with CA finish. - Page 3 - International Association of Penturners
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Old 02-02-2018, 05:22 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Bit of a noob question here. How do you keep the CA from gluing the blank to the bushings?
There are probably better responses coming, but for me it wasn't much of an issue. I do thin coats of ca, and stopped every now and then to pop the bushings loose as I layered on the CA.

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Old 02-02-2018, 06:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshrynk View Post
Bit of a noob question here. How do you keep the CA from gluing the blank to the bushings?
You can put a little wax on the bushings or use delrin bushings. The option I use is to not use bushings at all when applying CA. I mount the blank directly between centers. Just don't over tighten things or you will flair the tube.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:20 AM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Bit of a noob question here. How do you keep the CA from gluing the blank to the bushings?
Hi pshrynk, I use these:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/h...SABEgKSqPD_BwE
As soon as I'm done shaping the blanks to the bushings, I take the bushings off and use these things for sanding, staining, and finishing. They work great
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:23 AM   #24 (permalink)
 
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While we're on the subject, my problem with CA lately is that somewhere between a week to a year after finishing, my pens have been developing checking--a million little hairline cracks. Does anyone know what causes this? It's frustrating, because it doesn't happen all the time. Is CA vulnerable to temperature or humidity?

Thanks for any help.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:31 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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In reference to the sanding question from earlier: after I put CA on, I go straight to the micromesh, no more sanding, except maybe a little bit of 1500 grit. I just use the coarsest micromesh until the finish is totally matte, no more shiny bits. Then cruise through the rest of the micromesh and it shines like glass.
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Old 02-19-2018, 10:22 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshrynk View Post
Bit of a noob question here. How do you keep the CA from gluing the blank to the bushings?
Hi pshrynk, I use these:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/h...SABEgKSqPD_BwE
As soon as I'm done shaping the blanks to the bushings, I take the bushings off and use these things for sanding, staining, and finishing. They work great
Thanks! I just ordered a set.
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:25 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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What is nice about the micro mesh is it doesn’t sand deep like sand paper can. Works better for final finishing of the relatively thin CA coating.


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Old 02-19-2018, 11:48 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cmiller View Post
While we're on the subject, my problem with CA lately is that somewhere between a week to a year after finishing, my pens have been developing checking--a million little hairline cracks. Does anyone know what causes this? It's frustrating, because it doesn't happen all the time. Is CA vulnerable to temperature or humidity?

Thanks for any help.
Do you use calipers to measure your turnings, and then the thickness of the amount of CA build up? Many people use calipers, turn the blank down to something like .007 to .01 below the bushings (actually turn to those numbers below the size of the nib end, CB and Clip end.)

1. Build up a thicker coat.

2. Lately I have been reading that some who use StickFast CA have had more cracking than with other CAs.

3. Humidity and Temp, - it does affect it but it is more or less if the blanks are not dried enough or stabilized before turning and finishing. Cross Cut blanks without drying and stabilizing will crack the CA on many/most woods.
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Old 02-21-2018, 12:13 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leehljp View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmiller View Post
While we're on the subject, my problem with CA lately is that somewhere between a week to a year after finishing, my pens have been developing checking--a million little hairline cracks. Does anyone know what causes this? It's frustrating, because it doesn't happen all the time. Is CA vulnerable to temperature or humidity?

Thanks for any help.
Do you use calipers to measure your turnings, and then the thickness of the amount of CA build up? Many people use calipers, turn the blank down to something like .007 to .01 below the bushings (actually turn to those numbers below the size of the nib end, CB and Clip end.)

1. Build up a thicker coat.

2. Lately I have been reading that some who use StickFast CA have had more cracking than with other CAs.

3. Humidity and Temp, - it does affect it but it is more or less if the blanks are not dried enough or stabilized before turning and finishing. Cross Cut blanks without drying and stabilizing will crack the CA on many/most woods.
I have been using the StickFast, although to be fair to them, I'm probably not going through it fast enough and the bottles get pretty old. After reading from the experts here, I'm going to switch to one of the other brands with the "flex" feature.

Meanwhile, the High Build Friction Polish from Dr.'s Woodshop has been working really well. I put it on at high speed and the shine is about equal to the CA. I've heard that it's not as durable, though, I'm going to use a couple of the pens for a while to find out. Anyone else have experience with this product? It's a different formula than the Pens Plus.
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:53 AM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Bloody brilliant, mate. Will give your method a go tomorrow, thanks.
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